Hot Bodies Cyclone
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
I was racing my Cyclone S for the first time last night and broke one of my C-hubs. a fellow racer offered me a C-hub from an Xray T2 and it worked fine. Has anyone else had experience using Xray parts and if so which ones. I've found that the original plastic parts are not very strong or durable. I have decided that I will upgrade parts on a need by need basis. Should I try to stay with the HB/HPI Carbon Graphite parts or use the Xray Composite parts where I can?
Also, I need to do something with the front drive. I'm running VTA on asphalt. Should I go with a Solid Spool Axle or a One-way Differential (or are they the same thing?) I see them listed in different places with both names but, they look functionally the same. Hot Bodies also sells it in 3 different versions, One Way Diff - HBS61402 and Solid Spool Axle - HBS61334 and then just Solid Axle - HBS61086.
Can anyone help with any of this?
Also, I need to do something with the front drive. I'm running VTA on asphalt. Should I go with a Solid Spool Axle or a One-way Differential (or are they the same thing?) I see them listed in different places with both names but, they look functionally the same. Hot Bodies also sells it in 3 different versions, One Way Diff - HBS61402 and Solid Spool Axle - HBS61334 and then just Solid Axle - HBS61086.
Can anyone help with any of this?
2. On asphalt with rubber tires most people run a spool.
3. 61402 is a o-way and a spool. You put a pin through the axel to make it a spool.
4. 61334 is just a spool.
5. 61086 is a solid axel with different drive cups.
Spool = Solid axel
one-way = Front tires are not affected by the brakes
Diff = Tires react to both acceleration and brakes but can also spin backwards ( not a good thing.)
Hope this helps.
I was racing my Cyclone S for the first time last night and broke one of my C-hubs. a fellow racer offered me a C-hub from an Xray T2 and it worked fine. Has anyone else had experience using Xray parts and if so which ones. I've found that the original plastic parts are not very strong or durable. I have decided that I will upgrade parts on a need by need basis. Should I try to stay with the HB/HPI Carbon Graphite parts or use the Xray Composite parts where I can?
Also, I need to do something with the front drive. I'm running VTA on asphalt. Should I go with a Solid Spool Axle or a One-way Differential (or are they the same thing?) I see them listed in different places with both names but, they look functionally the same. Hot Bodies also sells it in 3 different versions, One Way Diff - HBS61402 and Solid Spool Axle - HBS61334 and then just Solid Axle - HBS61086.
Can anyone help with any of this?
Also, I need to do something with the front drive. I'm running VTA on asphalt. Should I go with a Solid Spool Axle or a One-way Differential (or are they the same thing?) I see them listed in different places with both names but, they look functionally the same. Hot Bodies also sells it in 3 different versions, One Way Diff - HBS61402 and Solid Spool Axle - HBS61334 and then just Solid Axle - HBS61086.
Can anyone help with any of this?
Regarding your questions on Spool or One Way. Normally, spool is much easier to drive, but One Way provides you with more steering off power. I would summarize the Pros and Cons for Spool below, so you can make the appropriate decisions:
Spool - Pros
==============
1) Easier to drive. It provides less off power steering than One Way, but more controllable.
2) You can effectively use brake. This could be important during head to head racing, where you want to control your lines when battling with other cars.
3) Works well on lower traction surface and with motors lower than 10T. You generally do not want to run One Way with less than 10T on rubber/asphalt because it would be too difficult to drive.
Spool - Cons
==============
1) Front tires and driveshafts wear out quicker.
2) Slightly less corner speed than One Way.
I would recommend that you get the universal one way/spool from Cyclone TC, which you can switch between One Way and Spool extremely easily. This way, you can do your own tests and see which suits you the best. Sorry, I can't remember the part number.
Hope the above helps
Tech Adept
iTrader: (12)
Great info guys, thanks a million.
Korey, what front axle would you recomend for a carpet track (36 x100) ? We're running Jaco blues. Layout is technical. Would the double carden axle be good ?
Have you noticed a difference between the two axles ?
Thanks.
Have you noticed a difference between the two axles ?
Thanks.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
It depends on what spool, and which outdrives you are running. With the 2 way that comes in the cyclone TC kit, I like to use the ver 2 universals.
For the most overall initial steering, the Ver 3 spool with POM outdrives and the ver 2 universals will be awesome. I'm not sure why, but I think it might have something to do with less gyroscopic effect from the heavy components that most spools come with, so it allows the car to roll more, and quicker. It isn't so durable on tracks with boards though, the outdrives can break. The POM outdrives have more slop in them than the other options for outdrives or spools. so the ver 2 universals help get rid of some of the slop in the whole system. They fit tighter inside the wheel hub bearings. Having the right amount of slop seems to help reduce chatter.
For better durability use the ver 3 spool with the steel outdrives, and MIP CVD's. The steel outdrives have almost no slop in them at all, so you need to create slop somewhere else in the system. The MIP CVD's don't fit as tight in the bearings, so then that introduces a little more slop into the system. I use this as a default usually because it provides a good compromise of steering and durability. I think it's what Hara usually uses as well.
The DCJs will generally provide less overall turn in, but give more steering throughout the rest of the corner in comparison to standard drive shafts. On paper, they should always be better as they are much more efficient, but they sometimes don't give you the right "feel". It's another tuning aid to keep in your box. If you can run the DCJ's and just get initial turn in through the suspension setup, then I think they will be the way to go.
I hope that wasn't too confusing. If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask.
-Korey
For the most overall initial steering, the Ver 3 spool with POM outdrives and the ver 2 universals will be awesome. I'm not sure why, but I think it might have something to do with less gyroscopic effect from the heavy components that most spools come with, so it allows the car to roll more, and quicker. It isn't so durable on tracks with boards though, the outdrives can break. The POM outdrives have more slop in them than the other options for outdrives or spools. so the ver 2 universals help get rid of some of the slop in the whole system. They fit tighter inside the wheel hub bearings. Having the right amount of slop seems to help reduce chatter.
For better durability use the ver 3 spool with the steel outdrives, and MIP CVD's. The steel outdrives have almost no slop in them at all, so you need to create slop somewhere else in the system. The MIP CVD's don't fit as tight in the bearings, so then that introduces a little more slop into the system. I use this as a default usually because it provides a good compromise of steering and durability. I think it's what Hara usually uses as well.
The DCJs will generally provide less overall turn in, but give more steering throughout the rest of the corner in comparison to standard drive shafts. On paper, they should always be better as they are much more efficient, but they sometimes don't give you the right "feel". It's another tuning aid to keep in your box. If you can run the DCJ's and just get initial turn in through the suspension setup, then I think they will be the way to go.
I hope that wasn't too confusing. If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask.
-Korey
lipo upper deck conv. set
Thanks for the info Korey !
The DCJs will generally provide less overall turn in, but give more steering throughout the rest of the corner in comparison to standard drive shafts. On paper, they should always be better as they are much more efficient, but they sometimes don't give you the right "feel". It's another tuning aid to keep in your box. If you can run the DCJ's and just get initial turn in through the suspension setup, then I think they will be the way to go.
-Korey
-Korey
More turn-in, more later it feels like running with one-way car. I have also heard that other brand's double joint drive shafts provide less overall turn in, but our 90 degrees double joint style is different. I don't think Korey has tried our HB DCJ yet but i'm sure he will soon.
i really recommend to try them if you are looking for more steering.
Thanks,
-Hiro
Thanks for the additional info. . What is the 90 degree feature that you mentioned ?
DCJ shafts actually give you way more overall steering.
More turn-in, more later it feels like running with one-way car. I have also heard that other brand's double joint drive shafts provide less overall turn in, but our 90 degrees double joint style is different. I don't think Korey has tried our HB DCJ yet but i'm sure he will soon.
i really recommend to try them if you are looking for more steering.
Thanks,
-Hiro
More turn-in, more later it feels like running with one-way car. I have also heard that other brand's double joint drive shafts provide less overall turn in, but our 90 degrees double joint style is different. I don't think Korey has tried our HB DCJ yet but i'm sure he will soon.
i really recommend to try them if you are looking for more steering.
Thanks,
-Hiro
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Hiro got me there... I have talked with a few people on Xray that have run them extensively. I'll give a full performance and durability report very soon of our own DCJs.
-Korey
-Korey
Hi guy's , I have been running the HB dcj's for a few weeks now & hold them in the highest reguard, In my opinion they only inhance the cars strongest atributes (grip in the corners).They help the car carry way more speed through the turn without the chatter or scrubing speed off,An absalute must for the spec racer, YES they are expensive but worth every cent me.
Thanks Adam.
Thanks Adam.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
anybody know if HB make replace parts for lipo upper deck without motor mount.
is much expensive buy the two parts always when you broken the upper deck
is much expensive buy the two parts always when you broken the upper deck
Just ordered some of those DCJ's. I think they will do the trick! Have my lipo pack in and made some trick mounts for weights so I can take out the battery and switch it out without F-ing up the weights.