luic

Tom, thanks for your time, and patiencie.

I tested, that 1mm to 3mm, below pivot blocks, and i my best lap times are with 2mm, is possible are not only one change, i need changed this how you say, and another thing, how oil at the same time...¿..? i tested it.

I down the droop to 5 - 4, in the race, and how you say, i feel less lose.

When i change the front block, i lose a lot of steering, and i need it, for me the car aren´t nervous, i like steering .

I tested, more combinations of oil, normally i feel the same oil in both trains the car is more neutral, sometimes i use 40-35, 50-40, ...is possible the brand of oil are not very good, and it change a lot with heat ?.

I put the thin spacers, because i broke the std, and i think are the same, i buy new ones, and probe it.

Thanks again, for your very apreciated help, Luis C.

tomracing

perhaps you can get the steering back in a different way.
for instance change the springs to silver/silver
but the 1.5 block really makes the mid corner and exit feel better. on my testing program this was a big lap time improvement.


oh and i missed one thing what rear top deck are you running?
in my tests either a split carbon rear deck or the frp deck worked best.
don't use the alloy deck on low grip as it makes the rear way to stiff

balistic

iTrader: (113)

I see a lot of talk about tire temps but no one said what they should be?

On bikes I look for 160 to 200 degrees and I have picked my car up and been surprised by how hot they were but didn't check them. Just by feel I would say 150 a couple of times.

I would say with an air temp of 90+ (30-35C) you could be looking at
130 (55C) degree track temp and would be as cool as they could get running.

luic

When i test silver-silver springs, i feel more loose the rear end, even with 1.0 front pivot block.
Sometimes, for stock races, i use 2.5º rear and blue springs, and i found best lap times.
I use the FRP rear top deck, and i have a original split rear top deck, for me work best the FRP.
And i use the new TC arms, and spool v3 with POM outdrives.

For tyres temp, , my wife take temp of my tyres an motor, just at finish every heat, with 50ºC +/- (122ºF) in the track, the tyres are 47-48ºC (116-118ºF), normally, Sweep 36R.

Greetings, Luis C.

dannybcaitlyn

Yep, I would have done it wrong. Thanks for clarifying that.

bigz

use the old suspension arms. give it a try.

decibels

iTrader: (3)

if you want a planted car put on the high traction arm set!! these are the plastic arms. i have stiffened my car up alloy rear brace and 3mm top deck and i run these arms for grip. the car drives very well and always has grip

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

hey guys...has anyone even had the spur gear wobble??

I've in the process of rebuilding mine, and when I spin the spur gear it looks like the gear is warped and its kinda bugging me..

• I've checked spacing with the one pulley - to make sure its not an optical illusion
• I've spun the gear when its not screwed on, still have a wobble
• spun it with the gear lightly tighten down, still have it
• Moved the spur gear 'mount' around on that center 'flat spot' - just to make sure I had it fully seated
• Used an 'official' HB supr, PRS spurs, kimborough...the only one I got with just about no wobble was some crappy brand spurs - that I didn't like using...

any ideas???? I'm stumped - the car is drivable, it just bugging me that I can't get it to spin true

mild seven

iTrader: (63)

Ive got the same problem at the moment. I think the spur gear holder is a bit warped coz no matter how i do up the spur it always wobbles. Not 100% sure as i dont have another spare holder.

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Hi,

I recently purchased a HB Cyclone TC and had exact same problem.

I was using a Kimborough spur which can only use two Spur mounting screws.

I purchased a Xenon Spur which allows all 4 screws to mount the Spur, and problem solved.

Cheers

Juan C Munoz

iTrader: (1)

Is there any guide on how to setup the Cyclone TC ?

I'm new at Electric On-Road cars and having real trouble finding the right setup for my car. I was hoping if you guys can direct me to a guide that explains to me the trick to setup my car for any track.

Thanks

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

If you overtighten either screw mount even slightly, the gear warps and it's done.

Here are the steps that I follow to get it pretty true:
- Make sure that you're using a new gear that allows all 4 scews to be used, such as the HB spurs.
- Put some blue threadlock into the screw holes on the spur gear mount. It will allow you to use less tension when tightening the scews, and it will still hold on.
- Put on the gear and thread in the screws.
- You'll want to tighten them lightly in a cross pattern, using only your thumb and forefinger on the wrench (don't use the 1/8 scale engine screw grip).
- Spin the layshaft/spur assembly to check for wobbles (get the belts and pinion out of the way first)
- If it spins true, give all 4 screws about a 1/16 of a turn to snug it up and you're good to go. Otherwise, if it wobbles, only tighten the high spot a little to bring it in-line with the rest of the gear and spin again... repeating until it runs true. If you find you have to tighten down one side a lot, loosen off the opposite side a little.

Hope that helps.

EJ20

I used 2 set screws on the spur gear holder (opposite) for mounted on the shaft to solve mine's.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Something else to try is rotate the spur gear on the mount to try a different set of holes. Sometimes the holes may look close, but they are not. A way you can tell is just use the shaft of your allen driver to tighten then screws. If you feel any resistance from the spur gear, then they are the wrong holes. they should thread in with ease.

-Korey

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

thanks for all the suggestions...i've tried them all

the PRS spur was old and new - and that's a 2-screw spur..i'd deem it the 2nd least wobbly of the group
I think tried a HB (xenon) spur, with both 2 screw and 4 screws...plus the lock tight and tighten down in star/cross pattern - still wobbly..

this is why i'm stumped...

I wish parts were available at other shops aside from HPI/Hotbodiesonline