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Old 05-08-2009, 03:00 PM
  #16201  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Just remember that I didn't get the name KING OF THE STRAIGHT for nothing. This weekend will be fun though. Especially if I get on the mic.
LOL. I guess if you arent fast in the infield, be fast on the straight!

Haha jk. I will for sure be at REEDY hanging out in the pits with you guys. You guys are way to effing funny!
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Old 05-08-2009, 03:04 PM
  #16202  
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Korey: correct, Thank you
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:08 PM
  #16203  
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Originally Posted by JayL
you are actually racing?



<mechanic hat>
hey, in the Hara build up website he puts a spacer in the diff. Do you not need/want that in the world spec diff?
</mechanic hat>
Yup see ya tomorrow
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:59 PM
  #16204  
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Is there a known problem with the cyclone s tub chassis?I have broken two in the past week.Afriend of mine who just started racing tc has broken his also.Mine was not hit in the rear and I didn't hit anything- I ran over a corner dot--the last one I didn't hit anything and there was no one else on the track at the time.I did note some rear chatter but that is common with a tub and dogbones...All three have broken in the exact same place-between the rear toe block and the last set of rear bulkhead screws,where the belt slot is.I know its only plastic/nylon but jeese- it is quite frustrating to a newbie-and in my opinion that is really what this car is for(new drivers)it should be at least able to take a hit or two without the whole rear of the car falling off-.I bought this car to replace my xxx-s graphite,which by the way has never broken anything besides a c-hub or two in the seven seasons I've had it.I'm gonna try it again sat.race- i run 13.5 rubber outdoors but will go down to 17.5 to try and keep it together-I love the way the cyclone handles but this chassis-breaking is nutz does anyone make a good graphite one for the sport??
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:54 PM
  #16205  
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
LOL. I guess if you arent fast in the infield, be fast on the straight!

Haha jk. I will for sure be at REEDY hanging out in the pits with you guys. You guys are way to effing funny!
Do you have a throne on the straight, which is your designated marshalling spot
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Old 05-08-2009, 09:30 PM
  #16206  
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Got the Pro diff and aluminum shocks tonight. The pro diff i awesome! Only drawback i see is you cant adjust it in the car right?
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Old 05-08-2009, 10:13 PM
  #16207  
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Originally Posted by GasGod
Is there a known problem with the cyclone s tub chassis?I have broken two in the past week.Afriend of mine who just started racing tc has broken his also.Mine was not hit in the rear and I didn't hit anything- I ran over a corner dot--the last one I didn't hit anything and there was no one else on the track at the time.I did note some rear chatter but that is common with a tub and dogbones...All three have broken in the exact same place-between the rear toe block and the last set of rear bulkhead screws,where the belt slot is.I know its only plastic/nylon but jeese- it is quite frustrating to a newbie-and in my opinion that is really what this car is for(new drivers)it should be at least able to take a hit or two without the whole rear of the car falling off-.I bought this car to replace my xxx-s graphite,which by the way has never broken anything besides a c-hub or two in the seven seasons I've had it.I'm gonna try it again sat.race- i run 13.5 rubber outdoors but will go down to 17.5 to try and keep it together-I love the way the cyclone handles but this chassis-breaking is nutz does anyone make a good graphite one for the sport??
That's just one of the many reasons I quickly sold my Cyclone S. You could just buy the lower CF deck to prevent that problem if you think its worth it.
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Old 05-09-2009, 03:13 AM
  #16208  
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
Got the Pro diff and aluminum shocks tonight. The pro diff i awesome! Only drawback i see is you cant adjust it in the car right?

Hi, you can adjust it in the car, just get a thin 1.5mm hex driver and slip it into the short outdrive whilst the diff is in the car, align the screw head and you should be able to adjust the diff!
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Old 05-09-2009, 08:32 AM
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I thought of that but the screw head doesn't seem to get to the edge of the out drive. I ll have to check again in better light. Thanks. By the way as far as the tub breaking i cut the back off all the way to the edge of the rear suspension mount. That extra area behind could give a fair amount of leverage on an area that does not have a lot of support. Trust me i stress tested it a lot last weekend and it is still ok
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Team STPN
Yup see ya tomorrow
I was fast 2day
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:57 PM
  #16211  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
I was fast 2day
Lucky.....

I you sure everyone else wasn't slow.....
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:46 AM
  #16212  
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Korey, what is the latest and greatest shock towers we should be using ? I've come up with three different part numbers and don't know what the difference is between them other then one of them is 3.5 mm thick. Front and rear.

Also what is the part number for the shock o-ring we should be using ?
Have you ever tried Tamiya o-rings ?

Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:47 AM
  #16213  
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jag-The WCE towers are very nice, lots of shock mounting options! The TC towers are very similiar but if im not mistaken may be a touch (1mm?) taller or shorter than the WCE towers.

Im using HPI #6820 Silicone O-ring with great success, I have been told it is the same silicone O-ring used in the Tamiya TRF dampers, but I will confirm this myself later this week!
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:21 PM
  #16214  
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Originally Posted by Team STPN
Lucky.....

I you sure everyone else wasn't slow.....
I told everyone that when I was done testing motor and speedo's I was going to get the set up dialed
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:05 PM
  #16215  
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Originally Posted by Jonnydb
hey superior hobbies.com hve them i bought one last week im waiting may get it tomorrow
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