cyclone speed

Lol funny i speak very litle spanish . lol

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys...

I am after a little info on the cyclone TC "kit". Whats in the box as far as tunning goes? So far I have been able to work out it comes with 1.4mm sway bars. What springs and blocks does it come with?

Cheers.

cyclone speed

Hi ,

I didnt ask this question before because i thought there was no point but i do want to get peoples opinion .

When i went racing last weekend on carpet , i tried STLNLST setup wich i really liked but i also tried my own setup , one thing that i really got confused was that when i see most of the setups on carpet , people use either the silver or coper roll bar , so i tried silver copper , wich was a bit slugish then i tried 1.6 / 1.6 front rear and my lap times where improved by 1.5 sec , and i did prefer alot more with the thicker roll bars , would you guys recomend me to stay with it if i like it , because i also went back to the smaller roll bars and i didnt like it so again i went back to the thicker bars and i stiked with it because i really liked it .
I dont know if you guys would recomend me to keep it or not , i will also try the shock position when i will get time because the rounds are pretty quick .

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I would just run whats fast for you. Not all setups are going to be good everywhere. YOU have to make the call on what changes best fit with your situation. That just takes practice, experience, and some tuning knowledge .

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Springs: HPI Pro 4 gold for the front, HPI Pro 4 Silver for the rear.

Blocks: 2.5deg front, 3 deg rear

-Korey

J.Gonzalez

iTrader: (16)

1.5 second change?

How big a track are you running on?

If your lap times vary by 1.5 sec focus on practice first and setup second.

That will yield better overall times.

Make your car easy to drive, dont hit anything and you would be suprised how fast your OVERALL time is.

Time at end of 5 minutes is way more important than hot lap speed. Go with the setting that yeilds the greatest consitency.

Good luck

Jamie

ark

iTrader: (11)

Hi Billythekid,

The ip 5000 30c lipo fits fine. You may not even need to take off as much as I did. Just get the battery and try it first. These batterys are great. I went to a race this weekend and running 4.5 geared at 8.3 I was pulling an average 2300mah only.

The car handled good just changed a couple of small things, all good!

cyclone speed

the track is medium sized an its carpet so it can give you an idea , we had 3 rounds ans 1 final , for the first round i just went to the track and it had kept sliding , 2sd round i tried STLNLST setup wich indeed was very good .
3rd round i went back to andy moores setup wich was for this track , and i didnt like it , and for the final i just went to thicker roll bar front/rear and i moved from 19 lapper to 21 lapper . After the final , when people where arsnging there stuff i went back to the normal setup and again kept sliding , so it does show that going to thicker roll bar did help .

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Either you have extra shocks or you're really fast changing things over cause my set up uses #2 pistons and don't most of Andy's use #3??? Run what works for you. If you're faster with thicker bars then leave them on and go have some fun

cyclone speed

I didnt change the piston shocks when i tried your setup , because its too much hastle and i dont see any difference ,even when changing oil , i only see a diference when i change roll center , akerman , shock position ....

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Until you run the complete set up you'll never know what it could really do.

cyclone speed

Yes , next time i go racing , next wekk or in 2 weeks , i will try the full setup , even if i dont see any difference i will try it .
While we are at it , could you explain to me what is the efect of more piston holes or less piston holes ?

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Guys

I have a setup question that I've never been able to answer by my own experiences... the track I race at sees its grip changing so much from the morning practice to the evening mains that I cannot isolate easily what handling changes come from grip changes vs. those from the car itself....

so here we go.

The question is: how does reducing wheelbase, via front or rear, change the handling characteristics of the cyclone?

In my theory books, reducing wheelbase from the rear leads to a more loaded rear end, which means more weight to the back on-throttle, ie more rear traction on-throttle. However it also means more overhangs, hence more "backpack" effect, ie the car is more prone to get into a drift from the rear (think off-throttle oversteer) and sustain if once the rear tires have lost traction.

Likewise, reducing wheelbase from the front should have the opposite effects - more front grip on throttle, and more understeer off throttle (you have to make that much more weight away from the front tires contract patch rotate around).

In both cases, a shorter wheelbase should mean a shorter turning radius no matter what (geometry 101), but I suspect this effect is marginal compared to those mentionned above.

What do you guys, who spend your lives at the track, think?

Thanks
Paul

Anemic_SluG

iTrader: (23)

I am sure someone else will have a more detailed textbook answer, but from my experiences a short wheel base car is good for tight tracks where having a car that transitions quickly and steers sharply is beneficial. A long wheel base makes the car less "athletic" feeling. More stable but transitions slower and has a larger turning radius. Better for long flowing tracks with large sweepers. That is where I use wheel base changes. To me it's finding the right balance of being able to carve the infield, and carry enough corner speed on the sweeper.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Can't disagree with that for sure - I was more after how different it is to adjust from the front than from the rear (and vice versa ).

(let alone adjusting from the a-arms or the hubs as far as the rear is concerned )

Paul