Exotek F1R
#2326
Hi There
1. The center associated pivot works best if it is snug but not tight on the chassis. If it pivots or slides a little then that is right. It keeps the suspension pod from binding.
2. As long as they don't rub anything it is fine.
3. Some like the inner hole so that it touches the carbon instead of side links. Inner hole just makes the spring act like they are softer.
4 As Serzoni said- for IFS only.
1. The center associated pivot works best if it is snug but not tight on the chassis. If it pivots or slides a little then that is right. It keeps the suspension pod from binding.
2. As long as they don't rub anything it is fine.
3. Some like the inner hole so that it touches the carbon instead of side links. Inner hole just makes the spring act like they are softer.
4 As Serzoni said- for IFS only.
I am using the side stiffeners with the kingpin suspension so i have had to use plastic spacers instead of the aluminium ones in order to obtain the same height for the ball.
Once i had more time i will buy another lower arm Tamiya part and I will file it so i can use the blue spacer.
I am really wiling to use the car for the very first time on the UK nationals this weekend. the car fells great and it seems to be an improvement over my previous car.
Best regards
javier
#2327
I need help with what I need to do for my rear diff. It was a disaster tonight. Ultimately the diff was either locked solid or so loose the spur just spun. I took the diff apart and compared it to a stock F104 manual and the parts I have do not match whatsoever.
I want to start from scratch with whatever is best. I do have an Exotek F1 spur and ceramic 3mm balls that I have not installed yet so let's start from there.
Can one of the experts out there tell me exactly what I need to have a rock solid diff?
As an FYI, I did have a few 1/12 scale guys look at the diff any they couldn't figure out what was going on. If I/they had to guess, I'm just missing parts. I basically have a standard bearing, two cone washers and a nut. That is all.... manual shows a thrust bearing that I don't have.
Any help is appreciated on what you experts run for the diff
#2328
Tech Adept
Here's a diagram of the rear diff:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...104prodiff.jpg
From your description, it seems like you're missing BA21. You'll need that. The diagram also shows that BA17 is a 5x11 standard bearing; I would replace that with a thrust bearing. BA16, the 8x12 standard bearing can remain as-is.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...104prodiff.jpg
From your description, it seems like you're missing BA21. You'll need that. The diagram also shows that BA17 is a 5x11 standard bearing; I would replace that with a thrust bearing. BA16, the 8x12 standard bearing can remain as-is.
#2329
Here's a diagram of the rear diff:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...104prodiff.jpg
From your description, it seems like you're missing BA21. You'll need that. The diagram also shows that BA17 is a 5x11 standard bearing; I would replace that with a thrust bearing. BA16, the 8x12 standard bearing can remain as-is.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...104prodiff.jpg
From your description, it seems like you're missing BA21. You'll need that. The diagram also shows that BA17 is a 5x11 standard bearing; I would replace that with a thrust bearing. BA16, the 8x12 standard bearing can remain as-is.
#2330
Be sure, when installing the BA20 shims, that they are installed like this )(
This is very important when using a thrust bearing.
This is very important when using a thrust bearing.
#2331
does anybody knows if the machined spurs are going to be back in stock in 93T??
I really need them as i can not make my diff work properly with the tamiya spur adapter 54215.
Best regards
Javier
I really need them as i can not make my diff work properly with the tamiya spur adapter 54215.
Best regards
Javier
#2333
I was using a Kimbrough spur with the tamiya adapter and 1/8" diff balls. The feeling was good on hand but, when the car was on track it was slipping. We check the diff twice and despite having a good feeling using both hand to catch the rear tires and it was hard (almost impossible) to move the spur with the right thumb but on track you could listen the car loosing traction, and see it.
I put in that moment a Exotek spur (and 3mm diff balls) and the diff went alive and traction was not a problem anymore.
Do we have any other option?
best regards
Javier
#2334
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
That is bad news
I was using a Kimbrough spur with the tamiya adapter and 1/8" diff balls. The feeling was good on hand but, when the car was on track it was slipping. We check the diff twice and despite having a good feeling using both hand to catch the rear tires and it was hard (almost impossible) to move the spur with the right thumb but on track you could listen the car loosing traction, and see it.
I put in that moment a Exotek spur (and 3mm diff balls) and the diff went alive and traction was not a problem anymore.
Do we have any other option?
best regards
Javier
I was using a Kimbrough spur with the tamiya adapter and 1/8" diff balls. The feeling was good on hand but, when the car was on track it was slipping. We check the diff twice and despite having a good feeling using both hand to catch the rear tires and it was hard (almost impossible) to move the spur with the right thumb but on track you could listen the car loosing traction, and see it.
I put in that moment a Exotek spur (and 3mm diff balls) and the diff went alive and traction was not a problem anymore.
Do we have any other option?
best regards
Javier
The 97t is still in stock if you can change your ratios.
#2335
That is bad news
I was using a Kimbrough spur with the tamiya adapter and 1/8" diff balls. The feeling was good on hand but, when the car was on track it was slipping. We check the diff twice and despite having a good feeling using both hand to catch the rear tires and it was hard (almost impossible) to move the spur with the right thumb but on track you could listen the car loosing traction, and see it.
I put in that moment a Exotek spur (and 3mm diff balls) and the diff went alive and traction was not a problem anymore.
Do we have any other option?
best regards
Javier
I was using a Kimbrough spur with the tamiya adapter and 1/8" diff balls. The feeling was good on hand but, when the car was on track it was slipping. We check the diff twice and despite having a good feeling using both hand to catch the rear tires and it was hard (almost impossible) to move the spur with the right thumb but on track you could listen the car loosing traction, and see it.
I put in that moment a Exotek spur (and 3mm diff balls) and the diff went alive and traction was not a problem anymore.
Do we have any other option?
best regards
Javier
Javier - you described the exact scenario I was battling last Friday night. I too was running a Kimbrough spur, adapter and 1/8 diff balls.
I switched over to the 97T Exotek spur and 3mm balls and the problem went away (although based on the suggestions above, I ordered a thrust bearing that will be here today) but not sure if it was the F103 or F104.
Anxious to give it another shakedown this weekend.
#2336
#2337
X-Factory UK seems to have 97T spurs on stock, I will order some for spares as well.
Many thanks Mike
Javier - you described the exact scenario I was battling last Friday night. I too was running a Kimbrough spur, adapter and 1/8 diff balls.
I switched over to the 97T Exotek spur and 3mm balls and the problem went away (although based on the suggestions above, I ordered a thrust bearing that will be here today) but not sure if it was the F103 or F104.
Anxious to give it another shakedown this weekend.
I switched over to the 97T Exotek spur and 3mm balls and the problem went away (although based on the suggestions above, I ordered a thrust bearing that will be here today) but not sure if it was the F103 or F104.
Anxious to give it another shakedown this weekend.
Best regards
Javier
Last edited by jimjav; 01-11-2017 at 12:17 PM. Reason: spelling
#2339
Tech Adept
Just picked up a set of these springs, they're very nice quality. I went ahead and swapped out my Tamiya fluorescent red for the the softest Exotek spring with the red mark. Felt somewhat similar. Am I in the ballpark?
#2340
I started the night off with a pretty poor handling car (this is my first real attempt at F1) and by the end of the night, the car was getting pretty decent. I still have some issues to work out but I know what I need to do to at least get it 98% of the way to where it needs to be to have a decent base set up on the car that I can drive. I think that next week I will be at the 98% point and that point I will post any questions I have for the F1R experts out there. So far, I like the car and I'm looking forward to seeing how well it will perform once dialed in.