viking44

I'm currently running a Protoform 14 on my F1R3 with the aluminum chassis, and I have a Protoform 15 in the process of getting trimmed to fit. It looks like it'll be a tight fit because of the side dampers. I've lowered the dampers and angled them as horizontally as possible, but it may come down to trimming the body to expose the dampers to get the body any lower. Otherwise, it'll have to be slightly nose down sitting on the chassis.

Rabbit0317

Thanks, what front and rear wings are you using? The serpent or something different.

viking44

Currently Tamiya F60 front and rear. I'm gonna try the MP4-24 front and rear next.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Like Viking said, you'll probably need to lower the rear cross brace to get the Pf15 body to fit. Here's some pics of how I did mine-

http://www.rctech.net/forum/14394922-post1889.html

Rabbit0317

Did you just use smaller standoff's or shave the stock posts down? Also will the cross brace fit the LCG batteries? I'm currently using a Track Power 3000mah.

I appreciate the imput and feed back.

viking44

Those look like all new standoffs. Plus you'll have to move the sidesprings inboard (which is where I have them already). You'll also have to space the side dampers lower from the rear pod plate to keep them more or less horizontal. IMO it seems like too much work, but I already have the 15 body. But after this I'll just stick with the 13 or 14.

Rabbit0317

Sounds like a good idea, thanks for the help.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Two 12mm standoffs from McMaster-Carr and two 3mm spacers for the upper tube balls. Not difficult at all. It also lowers the brace so it works better with lcg lipos.

viking44

Ok ok you've twisted my arm. I'll have a look into it. But also the brace has two slots for the factory Exotek "Y" standoffs. No chance of the brace sliding side to side with the shorter standoffs? Sure the side links will keep the battery in place but not really ideal for suspension movement haha.

I wonder if Exotek is reading this...

Sorry, I guess I'm being pessimistic because it seems backwards to me to have to modify an upgraded chassis to fit a "generic" body. The main reason I got this F1R3 conversion was to run the transverse battery. The inline battery configuration F104 fits almost any F1 body, so I convert away from knowingly, and then modify the conversion to fit one body?

If the 15 was like 5 seconds a lap quicker than the other bodies then I would lol.

Acid_CZ

any other extras i should consider to order along? spring set, spare arms..?

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

As far as bodies go, I prefer the Protoform Fourteen. The sidepods are tall enough to accommodate regular height transverse sorties and the nose is short enoughwhere it isn't the first thing that makes contact in a head-on collision. With creative cutting the nose can still be made to look like a body from 15 or 16.

Matthijs

iTrader: (1)

it fits, tight, but it can be done without serious modifications.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/14336849-post1801.html

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Yep! PF-14 for the win!

You might pick up a spare arm if your track has wooden boards (I've never broken an IFS part) and the soft springs as a tuning option for asphalt.


Hi,
Have you ran the Protoform 14 or 13 yet? Why do you need to use the 15? The 14 and 13 were in fact designed for use with transverse batteries and is why the F1R3 was able to go to the better handling transverse layout. Going to the 15 and an inline layout would be going backwards...

The 14 has been proven to be the best all around body for us and is about the most 'winningist' body out there. The 13 is the same body mold as the 14 except it has a longer raised nose tip
Pick your poison!

Acid_CZ

Thank you. What about hard springs, does it make huge difference on ETS carpet?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Sure thing. Aaron uses the included IFS grey spring.
His winning carpet set up attached.