1LikesXray T3 2012
08-15-2012, 06:22 PM
#3496
Some cars can be faster the easier you drive them and others are faster the harder you drive them. I tend to feel like I have to be very aggressive with the X-ray to turn faster laps, but it is easier to do them. Other cars do not require such an aggressive driving style to make them fast. It is just different!
Sorry for the tangent, I find that the thinner chassis and top deck produces too much traction and as such makes the car feel stuck in he mud in the slower classes on carpet. I have to make crazy setup changes to make the car fast which makes the car harder to drive to go faster. This may work for Alex or Paul, but does not work for me. I look for a car that rotates naturally and does not have to be whipped around corners. I tend to whip the X-ray more then I would like...but I am able to go fast with it in this way.
08-15-2012, 06:30 PM
#3497
Kit top deck
6mm front 5mm rear droop ORH
350 cst oil
1.5mm spacer under front outer camber link, inner camber link no spacers in the outer bulkhead
kit front swaybar, 1.1 mm rear sway bar
2mm bump steer spacers
spool front diff
kit lower pin roll center holders(middle dot)
6mm front 5mm rear droop ORH
350 cst oil
1.5mm spacer under front outer camber link, inner camber link no spacers in the outer bulkhead
kit front swaybar, 1.1 mm rear sway bar
2mm bump steer spacers
spool front diff
kit lower pin roll center holders(middle dot)
)
08-15-2012, 07:07 PM
#3498
double post deleted
Last edited by RCknight; 08-15-2012 at 07:20 PM.
08-15-2012, 07:19 PM
#3499
Yes thank you for that well explained post. This would explain why I'm always looking to stiffen up my car in VTA. That is why I posted earlier my concern as most of the cars seem to be developed more for asphalt racing these days. I understand why, but I just hope Xray dev team will give us some chassis stiffening options. Maybe a 417 would better suite me, but I love Xray quality and precision too much. I've just been waiting for the design options I want.
A car that flexes more will roll deeper through corners. Sometimes that makes the car feel lazy because the car is slow to react back to center. The thinner chassis and top deck in my opinion tends to be better in the faster classes, but in the slower classes the thick chassis and top deck tend to be a little faster for me. That is because the car needs less traction and tends to carry lot more corner speed. The X-ray generates speed in a very different way then other chassis I have run (which is a lot of them). The X-ray naturally rolls more then most of the other chassis on the market and as such tends to feel a bit more stuck then other cars. The key in my testing is not just finding the right setup, but also the right chassis combination to meet the speed of the class and your driving style. Getting around the track is the easy part...but going fast is the challenge. People will tell you that the X-ray is the greatest car on the market and to a certain degree I agree, but it is a lot harder to make it faster then other top level cars. But when you do find the right combination, on the right surface, at the right level of grip it is a hard car to beat.
Some cars can be faster the easier you drive them and others are faster the harder you drive them. I tend to feel like I have to be very aggressive with the X-ray to turn faster laps, but it is easier to do them. Other cars do not require such an aggressive driving style to make them fast. It is just different!
Sorry for the tangent, I find that the thinner chassis and top deck produces too much traction and as such makes the car feel stuck in he mud in the slower classes on carpet. I have to make crazy setup changes to make the car fast which makes the car harder to drive to go faster. This may work for Alex or Paul, but does not work for me. I look for a car that rotates naturally and does not have to be whipped around corners. I tend to whip the X-ray more then I would like...but I am able to go fast with it in this way.
Some cars can be faster the easier you drive them and others are faster the harder you drive them. I tend to feel like I have to be very aggressive with the X-ray to turn faster laps, but it is easier to do them. Other cars do not require such an aggressive driving style to make them fast. It is just different!
Sorry for the tangent, I find that the thinner chassis and top deck produces too much traction and as such makes the car feel stuck in he mud in the slower classes on carpet. I have to make crazy setup changes to make the car fast which makes the car harder to drive to go faster. This may work for Alex or Paul, but does not work for me. I look for a car that rotates naturally and does not have to be whipped around corners. I tend to whip the X-ray more then I would like...but I am able to go fast with it in this way.
08-15-2012, 08:36 PM
#3500
Springs control 'how much' and oil controls 'how fast'
Thicker front oil and/or stiffer front spring will improve the steering reaction when entering a corner but will compromise mid corner etc.
What surface/tyres are you using?
It might be easier for us to post a setup that we might use in the same circumtances, especially as we don't know what you're using now.
Skiddins
Thicker front oil and/or stiffer front spring will improve the steering reaction when entering a corner but will compromise mid corner etc.
What surface/tyres are you using?
It might be easier for us to post a setup that we might use in the same circumtances, especially as we don't know what you're using now.
Skiddins
Asphalt - Treated with VHT
Just trying to understand....
08-15-2012, 08:47 PM
#3501
On outdoor bumpy asphalt 5mm droop is the minimum I can run. Most people at the club run between 3-6 mm of droop ORH.
08-16-2012, 03:05 AM
#3502
I have gone faster since dropping my shock oil to 400cSt all round with 3hole 1.1mm pistons (alloy shocks).
On asphalt I use HPI silver springs front and rear. They're slightly softer than the kit 2.8's
08-16-2012, 06:57 AM
#3505
When I run stiffer rear springs I get better steering and possibly rear grip, but that really depends on how much grip there is already, remember you have to get the balance between the front and rear.
I have gone faster since dropping my shock oil to 400cSt all round with 3hole 1.1mm pistons (alloy shocks).
On asphalt I use HPI silver springs front and rear. They're slightly softer than the kit 2.8's
I have gone faster since dropping my shock oil to 400cSt all round with 3hole 1.1mm pistons (alloy shocks).
On asphalt I use HPI silver springs front and rear. They're slightly softer than the kit 2.8's
I think I have some things to try. Many thanks and the understanding of springs is VERY helpful for my mind...