IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Ride height- take this measurement from the bottom of the chassis just below the droop screws, and do it first....

Now to set droop- decide how much droop you want (let's say 2mm and your ride height is 5mm) place the same area of the chassis on the ride height guage at 7mm and adjust the droop screws until the tire just touches the ground....... easy as pie!!!!!

Fit

Oh okay now I see it. But this is using only the ride height gauge to measure both ride height and droop. How about those droop gauges offered by Hudy which includes support blocks and where the zero reading on the gauge coincides with the top of the support block, how do I use such a device to measure droop?

Thanks

Steevo

So then if your initial ride height is 5mm and then you set the droop to 2mm then your new actual ride height is 7mm I assume that 0mm droop is where the lower arms are parallel with the bottom of the chassis or ground, is this correct??

Also can someone with the patience to do so, please explain the effect droop has on the cars handling.

PizzaDude

Hi all,

Can you guys help me out.
I'ld like to know the weight for the TA-04 (lower) chassis.

1-stock tub
2-new tub
3-FRP chassis plates
4-Carbon chassis plates (Tamiya Japan -original)
5-Carbon chassis plates saddle pack (Tamiya USA)

Please state weight in grams.

Thanks,
Allready

Pizza

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Steevo- NO the ride heoght is still 5mm, but now the chassis can raise 2mm as weight is transferred to the other end of the car. THIS is what droop actually is.

If you have ever seen a T-Maxx being driven think of it for a while, the suspension over reacts so you get a much better idea of what is happening.

What happens is say inder braking the weight is transferred to the front, so the front end dips and the rear end raises, with no droop adjustment the weight will continue transferring until the rear tires have very little weight over them and rear end will be prone to breaking traction and spinning out if you are triing to turn while braking. With only 2mm of up-travel the rear will only raise 2mm adn then stop which will keep alot more weight over the rear tires and allow the car to maintain traction wile braking. The same goes for the front under acceleration.


FIT- the hudy guage measures droop from the bottom of the chassis to the bottom of the suspension arm. This is a OK way to do things, but as your tire diameter changes and you raise or lower ride height to compensate the droop measurement will also change so say 2 on the guage today with 67mm tires will be 1 on the guage tommorrow with 65mm tires..... These are just examples, but you can see how the slight change can make big differences. The droop guages just make tuning more complicated, as if setting up a tourer isn't complicated enough.....

nozauta619

iTrader: (11)

would anybody now where to get tamiya ta04 ss arms (f/r), i would like to experiment with my ta04r with a shorter wheelbase. did anyone try it? also if you can, tell me where you can get the bodies to fit that wheelbase. cool, thanks to anyone that replys.

Steevo

Thanks again for all the info IMPACTPLAYR. You sure know your stuff. I might start experimenting with some different settings and record the results.
Keep an eye out for my WEIGHT PROBLEM??? Post coming up in this thread soon. I will have the weights of many of the original and hop up options for the TA04 so everyone will be able to see how much weight they are gaining or loosing.

Steevo

PizzaDude

Steevo,

I can't weight (lol) until you post all the TA-04 hop ups with their weights.
Please post asap what you got thusfar.

Thanks a lot.

Regards,
Pizza

Steevo

Waiting for some parts to arrive so I Won't have the data until the Week End Pizza. But it should be interesting.

Steevo

Fit

Impact: I agree that the gauges do make it more complicated, close to impossible to measure droop with certainty. I have a set of droop gauge from Eagle Racing but the instructions are in Japanese!

Its difficult to differentiate whether I am measuring just droop only or a combination of both droop and ride height. This is because the arms when at zero droop is not level with the bottom of the chassis... nevermind its difficult to explain it. Anyway Steevo's idea of using just the ride height gauge seems the easiest and most logical way.

Steveo: I'm interested in the difference in weights of the different parts too. My TA04S is stock, RTR with a 2400 pack it weighs in at a whopping 1620g. Looking at shaving some weight. Your findings would definitely help in choosing which parts will lighten the car if changed.

PIIHB!

iTrader: (14)

nozauta619-Tower carries the clear mr-s body (audi tt body comming soon) and they also carry the rear ss arms. The conversion only requires the rear arms because the are the only ones that are differant.

Steevo

My "Weight Watchers" post will Include many of the stock items and the available hop up options including light weight out drives, Aluminium Pulleys, Carbon fiber parts, Complete Diff assemblies, Steering arms and posts etc. All will be weighed on a Professional Balance Scale accurate to one tenth of a gramm (Sorry but for the non metric viewers you will have to convert it to ounces yourself )

Steevo

nozauta619

iTrader: (11)

thanks bolinkboy, i'll look that up.

voodoo

iTrader: (13)

Can anyone tell me what the stock SQUAT, KICK UP and CASTER measurements of the TA04 are? tnx!

PizzaDude

Dragoon aand King,

Is this what you we're looking for?

Tamiya 49258.

I think this is it.

CU
Pizza