spring71

iTrader: (3)

Another FGX IFS conversion from John M.







It's getting popular... seems work great...

texastc

iTrader: (2)

TexasTC was wrong. Again .

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

couple more shots, I really like how these shocks feel, may even try and put them in the rear.

oceanhighz

iTrader: (49)

Haha, I just figured you had more experience with the F1 stuff that's out than I do, as mainly F104's run at our local tracks and a few F103's. Things change constantly, and there have been many advances with this chassis. You were no more wrong than I was curious

BlueEagle

Hi all, looking to pick up an FGX for silver can/21.5 racing on asphalt and had a few questions:

I can't find any mention of 64p spurs anywhere, so I'm assuming I'm stuck with 48P?
How are the stock shocks? I saw an Associated 18R conversion being sold on tqracing's site.

What else do I need?
Sounds like the "Fast Gear Set" (SAK-F21) is a must for 21.5/silver can.
N tires in the box so I'll need some of those.
Seems like a few people had trouble with the KingPins, would you say the titanium nitride-coated kingpins (FGX-325) are a must have?
Spare Arms (FGX-101/V2)? Still necessary if I do the turnbuckle mod?

Any other must have spares/upgrades?

I'm more interested in reliability/durability than performance.

I might do the turnbuckle based front upper arms just because I think it looks interesting.

Thanks in advance.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

I just post alot, I dont really know much. lol I ask alot of questions.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Helped with some in red, more people can add to this. I sold my FGX last month

RedBullRacing

iTrader: (5)

Converting the rear shocks to TRF tc items isn't hard - at least with the Exotek chassis it isnt. I haven't yet tried the car on track yet (almost finished the new one) , but it certainly looks promising.

InspGadgt

For the side pod stripes I used Parma 10mm masking tape. All the rest was done with a 1/4" vinyl mask. I'm thinking that was about right for the upper air box but the nose and the stripes behind the driver I think are too wide. I also have a 1/8" mask but to me it looked too narrow for the nose and the stripes behind the driver. Maybe a 3/16" or 4mm ish would have been closer.

RedBullRacing

iTrader: (5)

The TRF setup : using a couple of spare deck posts, 42mm turnbuckles, 5mm ballstuds and cups and spacers under the front studs for clearance to the deck link. You could also try threading your own hollow alloy or carbon tube in place of the deck posts, .I just used the right hand thread of the turnbuckle ,to wind into the alloy joiner and wound the ball cup onto the other end anti-clockwise.

RedBullRacing

iTrader: (5)

Cool, thanks. I will grab some 4,5 & 6mm to try on a scrap piece of lexan.

InspGadgt

Let me know what looks best...I plan to do another and do it right

pejota

iTrader: (12)

JEALOUS!

I wish the prices on desktop CNC machines would come down a bit... but seeing how that's a niche market, i highly doubt it.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Compared to full size machines they are super cheap! My Father has four 4 40x20 mills at 180k each!! the new one i am looking at is about 20k, one i have now was 10k but i have seen used ones go for around 5k if you can find one.

MAD916

I have been running the CRC Encore shock on my FGX, http://www.timezonehobbies.com/store...roducts_id=291

works great just a quick sanding on the top of the CRC piston to match up with the C-clip groves on the FGX shock rod... very predicatble dampening and does not leak a bit.