Team Losi JRXS
Hey Todd, Im going to race foam. Its a good size track.
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Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
I'm looking for a good starting setup for Horsham, would Xavier's setup from cleveland work for a starting point. I havn't raced on carpet in 6 or 7 years.
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Originally Posted by T. Hodge
You can either cut the shock bottom as Billanti had mentioned or you can run the high tower position. If you do run the high tower position you will have to move the camber link location down one hole.
Thanks Todd that did the trick. I took the car out over the weekend and it's VERY smooth. I'm a former shaft car driver and I didn't realize how much smoother belts are to drive...very nice.
Front Pivot Question
Hey PookyT, or anyone else in the know. What handling change characteristics will I see if I change my front pivot bar from a 0 degree to a 2 degree bar? What is the theory for doing such a change? Thanks JW.
More initial turn in.
RCRACINGKID, Is the more initial turn in, on power or off power?
On and off power i felt more turn in when going up in block.
Yup.......The swept arms should let the front end roll a little more than with the 0 bar.
Brant
Brant
OK Fellas I need some ideas here!!!!!!!
2 weeks ago I changed the 41 tooth pulley and spool set-up I have been running since last year and installed the new 41 tooth pulley with the spool pads. I checked the bearings and all to make sure everything looked good and then I reassembled it. I have since run 2 races and both times I now have a low speed push that was not there before. My old spool setup was using diff rings with notches cut in them so the balls in the pulley would lock down and not turn. I am looking for thoughts and ideas if any of you guys have had a similar experience.
Brant
2 weeks ago I changed the 41 tooth pulley and spool set-up I have been running since last year and installed the new 41 tooth pulley with the spool pads. I checked the bearings and all to make sure everything looked good and then I reassembled it. I have since run 2 races and both times I now have a low speed push that was not there before. My old spool setup was using diff rings with notches cut in them so the balls in the pulley would lock down and not turn. I am looking for thoughts and ideas if any of you guys have had a similar experience.
Brant
Did you change your belt tension or outdrives / lcd's. More or less play seems to affect the car balence slightly. When everything is tight i though i got a low speed push. (Maybe since everything fights itself more)
I gotta think that you can fix it with your Dremel...
Originally Posted by POOKYT
OK Fellas I need some ideas here!!!!!!!
2 weeks ago I changed the 41 tooth pulley and spool set-up I have been running since last year and installed the new 41 tooth pulley with the spool pads. I checked the bearings and all to make sure everything looked good and then I reassembled it. I have since run 2 races and both times I now have a low speed push that was not there before. My old spool setup was using diff rings with notches cut in them so the balls in the pulley would lock down and not turn. I am looking for thoughts and ideas if any of you guys have had a similar experience.
Brant
2 weeks ago I changed the 41 tooth pulley and spool set-up I have been running since last year and installed the new 41 tooth pulley with the spool pads. I checked the bearings and all to make sure everything looked good and then I reassembled it. I have since run 2 races and both times I now have a low speed push that was not there before. My old spool setup was using diff rings with notches cut in them so the balls in the pulley would lock down and not turn. I am looking for thoughts and ideas if any of you guys have had a similar experience.
Brant
i'm running the stock 42t pulley with the spool rings. when i first put the spool together (10 minutes before 3rd qualifier at the nats, i ran that round with half a flange on the outside), i rotated the diff down into low position and set belt tension. the pulley immediately snapped on the edge of the cutout in the chassis.
the diff is wider with the spool rings and the outer lip will rub or crack on that edge if run in low. i'm guessing since you have the 41t, it's probably rubbing slightly instead of cracking.
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
I just bought a JRXS, can't wait to get it.
Ok we have a winner!!!!
3rd. Place JRXSRDXBill........You Suck!!! LOL
2nd. Goes to Russ. Diffs are in high position and norubbing but I can see where it is wider now than before. Thanks for the tip!
And the winner is rcracingkid!!!!!
I discovered on my right side LCD the outer of the two pins was broken in half. It still was holding the unit together but I believe it either broke from a side impact or from the fact I had too thick of a shim between the bearing and the axel pin and had 0 slack after installing (at the same time as the new pulley) the new aluminum hex's. Thanks for the help gents and I will update my track tests this Sunday.
Brant
3rd. Place JRXSRDXBill........You Suck!!! LOL
2nd. Goes to Russ. Diffs are in high position and norubbing but I can see where it is wider now than before. Thanks for the tip!
And the winner is rcracingkid!!!!!
I discovered on my right side LCD the outer of the two pins was broken in half. It still was holding the unit together but I believe it either broke from a side impact or from the fact I had too thick of a shim between the bearing and the axel pin and had 0 slack after installing (at the same time as the new pulley) the new aluminum hex's. Thanks for the help gents and I will update my track tests this Sunday.
Brant
Wow! 3rd Place is a good showing for me.
Too bad there are only three of us though.
That's a name...
Too bad there are only three of us though.
That's a name...