Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
10-11-2008, 04:11 PM
#6542
Hey Steve,
Trying to get my gear all set for our first race of the '08-09 carpet season next weekend and was trying to get settings dialed in on my esc's. One of my GTB's (Spread Spectrum spec 4-cell GTB) seems to have the green LED burned out. When I connect to power and power up holding the "one touch" button down to enter the one-touch mode the red LED will come on after a couple seconds as expected. Pulling the trigger back nothing happens (green LED does not light) no matter how long I wait. If I go through the whole one-touch process waiting a couple seconds at each trigger position it seems to match the esc with my Tx. When I release the trigger to neutral the red LED comes on steady right away, then after a brief pause the amber and blue LED's light as well.
Any suggestions? The unit seems to work fine, just no green LED. Patience seems to make it possible to do "one-touch" but I won't be able to receive error codes without it and I don't think I'll be able to select drive frequency edits. Is it possible to just replace or repair the LED or do I need a whole non-warranty exchange?
Reasonably handy with tools and irons if I know what I'm looking for or can be guided.
Many thanks (as always),
Scottrik
Trying to get my gear all set for our first race of the '08-09 carpet season next weekend and was trying to get settings dialed in on my esc's. One of my GTB's (Spread Spectrum spec 4-cell GTB) seems to have the green LED burned out. When I connect to power and power up holding the "one touch" button down to enter the one-touch mode the red LED will come on after a couple seconds as expected. Pulling the trigger back nothing happens (green LED does not light) no matter how long I wait. If I go through the whole one-touch process waiting a couple seconds at each trigger position it seems to match the esc with my Tx. When I release the trigger to neutral the red LED comes on steady right away, then after a brief pause the amber and blue LED's light as well.
Any suggestions? The unit seems to work fine, just no green LED. Patience seems to make it possible to do "one-touch" but I won't be able to receive error codes without it and I don't think I'll be able to select drive frequency edits. Is it possible to just replace or repair the LED or do I need a whole non-warranty exchange?
Reasonably handy with tools and irons if I know what I'm looking for or can be guided.
Many thanks (as always),
Scottrik
Try pulling out the input harness from your receiver and seeing if the ESC gives you a green and yellow LED code... that is the code for no signal... if the green LED really isn't present, it won't come up.
Other than that I don't really recommend trying to replace the LED yourself... it's REALLY tight between the boards in there.
Most of the time those are refurbished units, but when we don't have enough refurbs we use new units... it just depends on what we have in stock.
10-11-2008, 04:59 PM
#6543
I KNOW you didn't just quote related specs in two completely different measurement systems... 
Metric: 31.75mm w/fan, 21.75mm w/o
Non-metric: 1.25" w/fan, 1.64" w/o
Imperial: the width of the King's pinky and ring fingers pressed together w/fan...
Metric: 31.75mm w/fan, 21.75mm w/o
Non-metric: 1.25" w/fan, 1.64" w/o
Imperial: the width of the King's pinky and ring fingers pressed together w/fan...
10-12-2008, 10:31 PM
#6547
Hahaha sorry about mixing metric/imperial on you there! Just pulling info out of my head and spewing it out here without filtering it sometimes!
Regarding your LED issue, I'd just recommend the non-warranty trade... Technically we don't actually do repairs because it takes too much time for each individual unit... it's more cost and time effective to simply have refurbished units ready to replace faulty units.
Hi Teck,
Not sure... I think we want to see how well the 8.5 combo goes over and see how big the demand is for the various other motor combinations! I have been getting a few questions here regarding 10.5/13.5/17.5 havoc combos...!
No problem!
10-12-2008, 10:41 PM
#6548
Steve, what is your opinion on lipo 'C' ratings and how it affects 17.5 racing? Do you think it makes a difference?
10-12-2008, 11:53 PM
#6549
and for the havoc/17.5 combo...i can tell you right now after talking to fellow racers at both onroad and offroad clubs i visit...that combo is something many people are looking forward to. Especially with the JBRL just ending, lots of people that were waiting for that to end to switch over to lipo/brushless (which is like, most of the guys in any of the stock classes) are now lookin for a relatively cheap stock combo setup that'll do good on the track and I feel that many would gravitate toward a Havoc 17.5 combo. Just my 2 cents
10-13-2008, 07:53 AM
#6550
Generally we have seen that on lower C rating packs that under a given load (say 20 A), the voltage will drop more than a pack with a higher C rating with the same load.
What this means is that in your car your motor is going to be getting higher voltage with a higher C pack under load than with the lower C rating pack.
10-13-2008, 08:06 AM
#6552
Correct!
10-13-2008, 08:57 AM
#6554
HV/Super Duty Question
I have a question regarding the HV Maxx/Super Duty XR controllers.
When rewired to the single pack configuration, what is the maximum number of NiMH cells you can use (based on the BEC limit)? I know it has to be at least 7 cells because each will take 7-cell packs on each input when using two packs. Is single pack the limit 7 cells, or can they be run with 8 or 9? I'd be running a single high-torque Airtronics servo (94357 or 94757).
If the limits for the HV-Maxx and Super Duty XR are different, please let me know.
When rewired to the single pack configuration, what is the maximum number of NiMH cells you can use (based on the BEC limit)? I know it has to be at least 7 cells because each will take 7-cell packs on each input when using two packs. Is single pack the limit 7 cells, or can they be run with 8 or 9? I'd be running a single high-torque Airtronics servo (94357 or 94757).
If the limits for the HV-Maxx and Super Duty XR are different, please let me know.
10-13-2008, 08:59 AM
#6555
I honestly couldn't tell you.
Danny over in the SMC thread might be a better place to ask!
Most of the time I subscribe to the idea that "cooler is better"... and as such I wouldn't feel comfortable with it being more than 150 degrees F at any point.
Danny over in the SMC thread might be a better place to ask!
Most of the time I subscribe to the idea that "cooler is better"... and as such I wouldn't feel comfortable with it being more than 150 degrees F at any point.