PRC Quad12
#376
Tech Addict
yes, there is a definitely a reason why I recommend the Quad12 to all
#377
barrys we have to get some more people to realize how good this car really is.
Lets help doug. If any one company deserved to grow is PRC.
Lets help doug. If any one company deserved to grow is PRC.
#378
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
So hows this:
Pre Q12 - Normally a last place finish, not terribly fast normally a few laps down, and driving was ... clumsy. The car was a handful to drive most of the time.
Post Q12 (and changing to a HRS reciever and Futaba digital servo) - of 3 qualifiers tonight I had fast lap in 2 of them. I came in 2nd only 2 seconds behind the leader in the main. I am working on consitency since I would have won if I didnt glance a corner a few times in the main.
The Q12 got some attention at the event and I am ultra pleased with the results I am getting out of it. I am using the dampner disk setup still (with nothing on them at all) and within about 10 minutes of running it, I had it dialed in to my driving likes. (also I need to point out I have been practicing a good bit and my driving has also gotten much better in the last few weeks)
The Futaba servo and HRS setup was also a massive improvement, the car is MUCH more agile now with a servo that holds center well, and can transition that fast.
The battery retention system in the car also was used for the first time tonight, and wow, it kicks total ass. No tape, no hassle, no need to remove the shock, just perfect.
Great job Doug!
Pre Q12 - Normally a last place finish, not terribly fast normally a few laps down, and driving was ... clumsy. The car was a handful to drive most of the time.
Post Q12 (and changing to a HRS reciever and Futaba digital servo) - of 3 qualifiers tonight I had fast lap in 2 of them. I came in 2nd only 2 seconds behind the leader in the main. I am working on consitency since I would have won if I didnt glance a corner a few times in the main.
The Q12 got some attention at the event and I am ultra pleased with the results I am getting out of it. I am using the dampner disk setup still (with nothing on them at all) and within about 10 minutes of running it, I had it dialed in to my driving likes. (also I need to point out I have been practicing a good bit and my driving has also gotten much better in the last few weeks)
The Futaba servo and HRS setup was also a massive improvement, the car is MUCH more agile now with a servo that holds center well, and can transition that fast.
The battery retention system in the car also was used for the first time tonight, and wow, it kicks total ass. No tape, no hassle, no need to remove the shock, just perfect.
Great job Doug!
#379
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Also the car with body, and transponder (amb personal), rings in at 30.1 Oz of weight. (Parma body w/ 2 coats of paint, and some well worn CRC/Jaco tires).
Electronics are a Novak Atom ESC, Futaba HRS reciever, and Futaba 9650 Digital Servo on CRC universal servo mounts.
So its a lil bit of a fatty, but not by too much.
Electronics are a Novak Atom ESC, Futaba HRS reciever, and Futaba 9650 Digital Servo on CRC universal servo mounts.
So its a lil bit of a fatty, but not by too much.
#380
The battery retention system in the car also was used for the first time tonight, and wow, it kicks total ass. No tape, no hassle, no need to remove the shock, just perfect.
If make you jumper wire for the batteries a little longer you can run it over the shock. You won 't even have to take the shock off.
#381
Tech Addict
T-Bar brace or not
welcome folks opinion on optimal set up for high-bite ( equivalent to Cleveland) track situations with the Quad 12. I am using the 2.5 mm chassis with old style front-end (.22 springs). I am using Parma magenta fronts and grey rears.
T-Bar brace or not?
T-Bar brace or not?
#382
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Originally posted by kt racing
Clegg,
If make you jumper wire for the batteries a little longer you can run it over the shock. You won 't even have to take the shock off.
Clegg,
If make you jumper wire for the batteries a little longer you can run it over the shock. You won 't even have to take the shock off.
#383
whats everybody upto?
#384
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I ran the Q12 with a damper disc set up this weekend. I haven't used damper discs for almost 3 years.
The result was smooth, consistant handling all day long with no maintenance required. I used a little Trinity purple stuff on the discs and it was good to go. My only complaint is the plastic AE damper post. It doesn't hold a screw and sticks up a little too far. I may need to make a tool to dimple the body for a little clearance.
D.P.
The result was smooth, consistant handling all day long with no maintenance required. I used a little Trinity purple stuff on the discs and it was good to go. My only complaint is the plastic AE damper post. It doesn't hold a screw and sticks up a little too far. I may need to make a tool to dimple the body for a little clearance.
D.P.
#385
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Unfortunately the A Arm mounting bolts I had on my 12L3 didnt fit perfectly into the counter sunk holes for the lower arms right. They were shallow meaning that like .5mm of CF was left above the screw head.
first drive out a tap on teh wall caused it to delaminate a little bit. Not bad, it was caught in time, CA'd and clamped... hunted around the track and found someone that had some A Arm screws that filled the entire counter sunk area more. I am guessing its because of the chassis that was .5mm thicker meaning the counter sinking was also a bit deeper than the stock chassis. I shoulda noticed that more before I took it out to drive. Just a little bummed that I could have destroyed that chassis that fast.
but still its a great conversion, just make sure all the screws are flush to the bottom of the chassis.
first drive out a tap on teh wall caused it to delaminate a little bit. Not bad, it was caught in time, CA'd and clamped... hunted around the track and found someone that had some A Arm screws that filled the entire counter sunk area more. I am guessing its because of the chassis that was .5mm thicker meaning the counter sinking was also a bit deeper than the stock chassis. I shoulda noticed that more before I took it out to drive. Just a little bummed that I could have destroyed that chassis that fast.
but still its a great conversion, just make sure all the screws are flush to the bottom of the chassis.
#386
Spring Steel T-Plate
I broke my first T-Plate last night and was wondering if I should continue to use the Fiber version or switch to the Spring Steel. What are the pros and cons of the doing this? If the T-Plate is reinforced (Spring Steel), what is the next weakest link?
Thanks
Thanks
#387
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Re: Spring Steel T-Plate
Originally posted by rinkrat99
I broke my first T-Plate last night and was wondering if I should continue to use the Fiber version or switch to the Spring Steel. What are the pros and cons of the doing this? If the T-Plate is reinforced (Spring Steel), what is the next weakest link?
Thanks
I broke my first T-Plate last night and was wondering if I should continue to use the Fiber version or switch to the Spring Steel. What are the pros and cons of the doing this? If the T-Plate is reinforced (Spring Steel), what is the next weakest link?
Thanks
On the HTW rug, I would stay with a fiberglass T-plate. We don't have the bite for the spring steel T-plate.
D.P.
#388
Clegg,
As a rule (be it time consuming) you should put some CA on a q'tip and spin it around in all of the counter sunk holes. That what I've done on all of CF chassised cars, from 1/12 to sedan.
E
As a rule (be it time consuming) you should put some CA on a q'tip and spin it around in all of the counter sunk holes. That what I've done on all of CF chassised cars, from 1/12 to sedan.
E
#389
DP,
Could you remind of what comes in your conversion kit.
Thanks,
E
Could you remind of what comes in your conversion kit.
Thanks,
E
#390
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by EricF
DP,
Could you remind of what comes in your conversion kit.
Thanks,
E
DP,
Could you remind of what comes in your conversion kit.
Thanks,
E
The Quad12 kit consists of chassis, bottom pod plate, top pod plate, chassis brace, T-bar brace, damper tubes and the tapeless Cell Retention System. The Q12 chassis is available in 2.25mm thickness and the 2.5mm thick Team version.
A number of people have asked me about using damper discs with the Q12 and that is certainly an option if there is interest.
I have a damper disc top pod plate with a tube down to the T-bar for extra stiffness.
D.P.