beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

There are hundreds of posts in this thread regarding gear diffs for the TC4. You just need to search the term "gear diff." All of the diffs that fit somewhat including the B44.3 will require much modification to the input shafts and case. I think the general consensus may be that it isn't worth the effort except for the elite few with too much time on their hands. Ball diffs work just fine. You just have to maintain them.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Shocks. How often do you need to replace/refill your shock oil? I have FTTC4 shocks, rebuilt and filled with fresh oil about 3 months ago. This weekend the right rear shock went soft. The track layout was run counter clockwise, which puts more load on the right side shocks. And there was a high speed sweeper going CCW.

Opened up the RR shock, it didin't look low, and didn't look dirty, but the rebound was soft, and the compression was very soft. So that begs the question, How often do you need to replace/refill your shock oil?

patorz31

Every couple of weeks, I take them off, take the sprigs off, open the cap and put in my vacuum shock thingy. I let then sit for 20 mins top them off suck the air out again and sit for half an hour then rebuild. I just do this while I do my regular maintence.

FLYINGBRIAN

Thanks

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

If you build your shocks carefully and are lucky that they dont leak badly, and you run on a clean surface such as carpet you can get away with running your shocks for a while. The biggest thing that will mean a rebuild will be getting air into the shock, which is a bigger problem with non-bladder emulsion shocks than bladder shocks as when your bladder shock leaks a little oil past the bottom seal it wont fill with air.

SouthFloridaApp

iTrader: (6)

Desert...... So for an avg. Joe that has FAIR maintenance practices based on your explanation I would think bladder shocks would be better. I replace shock oil once a month I.e. Do you agree?

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

As long as your car is handling well, and your shocks don't show signs of leakage, leave them be. I've rebuilt shocks in the past and caused problems (tear the bladder/oring, cross thread the cap, loose the spring, you get the idea)

If there is a problem, rebuild as necessary, or if you need to try a different fluid.

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

"Ditto"

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, I was finally able to do something to my Diggity TC4 conversion car that I always wanted to do, I found a way to mount a TC6.1 type swaybar.

The swaybars were probably the best part of the 6.1. Now, I just need to do the same to the front suspension and I will be golden.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNVg1rGxh-s

The shocks/springs are old Losi units.

http://imgur.com/8g74YyQ

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

There ya go Patrick another mod for your car !!!!!

patorz31

Yeah, i might just have to try that.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I opened up the slot with my dremel and a fine grinder tip, then finished them with a rat-tail file I had that was just a hair smaller than the diameter of the sway bar link, made a hold-down with an old piece of carbon fiber, and finished it again with the file after bolting it together. You have to take a fair amount of material out from between the two sway bar tabs on the bulkhead, and make sure they are very close in depth, but it's doable. I did the front end last night, now the car can actually control its weight instead of feel heavy and wallow or drag the chassis.

John Wallace2

Questions for anyone running a TC4 in the VTA class. How much does your car weigh (race ready), how much lead did you have to add to get to that weight, and what body are you using? Also are you using gear diffs in F and/or R?

Some of our local tracks here have dropped the VTA weight to 1380 grams (I know that is not the current or new USVTA weight for this class). I'm just getting some facts to get them to use the new USVTA weight limit.

Thanks

nttdemented

Mine is a bit of a pig. 1460g rtr with an HPI corvette c5 body. The only "lightened" stuff it has are a few aluminum screws, Ti turnbuckles and the lightened steel ball diffs front and rear. Also, using a shorty SMC 4400mah battery, titanium geared Savox servo, XR10 Justock ESC, HW Bandit 21.5, Airtronics receiver (the larger waterproof kind that came with my MX-V).

Haven't drilled the chassi or anything like that, not sure if it's worth it still to swiss cheese the chassi.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Any TC4 will have problems getting down to 1380, even if it's a carbon chassis car with a light body. The old VTA weight of 1550 was pretty high, but the current rule number of 1450 seems to be a more reasonable number.

Also, you may have miss-typed but there are no gear diffs for the TC4. You can run two ball diffs but my car always liked a spool in the front no matter what kind of racing or surface.