DMD

iTrader: (1)

Nicholas72, Justwill,

Do you know if the DCV mod will work on the TC3? There's way too much friction on full lock.

nttdemented

How was your clearance of the DCV's bones inside the outdrives. What is in your front diff case?

Also, how durable are your turnbuckles turning out to be? With any minor tap I do to a rail I throw off my settings big time and end up having to adjust trim during the run. Considering on either RPM ball cups or some sort of small nut on the inside of the cups to lock them in place on the turnbuckle.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Nice work!!

But is the car faster with DCV's?

Easier to drive?

Spool or ball differential?

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

Spool, faster because I don't feel like I'm scrubbing so much speed from the CVDs binding up at anything over 60% steering.

Sofa King

iTrader: (2)

How about the slop in the drive cups with the pins being smaller, any issues there?

derekbsmith

iTrader: (25)

Hi All! New to onroad but not new to offroad. Looking at a tc4 for some carpet vta racing. A few questions though.
1) What parts should I replace or buy with the kit that will yield better performance? shocks, cvds, arm mounts, turnbuckles, bearings, etc.?
2) Will 25.5 or 27.5T motors be just right for my club skill level which is 4 or a 5 on a scale of 1-10 offroad? If not what turn do you recommend and what pinion/spur combo?
3) Any particular parts that I should have a replacement ready to go as a spare?
4) I did not see a spring tuning kit on amain, what color springs should I have for tuning?
5) What compound of tires or tread patterns should I get?
6) What oil weight is typically run in these cars for carpet?

Anything else please suggest! Thank you!

scirocco14

iTrader: (5)

Here's some answers from a TC4 USVTA racer.

1. Upgrade to some coil over shocks. The VCS2 or VCS3 are a good choice from Associated. This will make it easier on you to get the setup right.

Also, add a servo saver to the servo. Otherwise you'll break steering racks. Right, ITZNicholas72?

2. Your class rules will determine this. Some clubs run 25.5 motors, others run 21.5 motors in VTA. The USVTA rules are Novak 25.5 motors only. So check with your club/track before you buy a motor.

3. The usual list of suspects: C-hubs (caster blocks) are prone to breakage if you hit a lot of stuff.

If you use the stock front spool, you're likely to break the plastic outdrives in impacts (I think...I don't run a spool so I don't know if it's steel or composite).

I also recommend the steel TC3 axles for the front, or the TC4 Factory Team aluminum front axles. Much more durable than the stock composite axles.

4. The stock blue springs should get you close, find some Associated silvers for the rear. This is popular combo.

5. The VTA rules specify the wheels and tires to use.

http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/index.html

6. The kit shock weight is 40wt. That's a great starting point.

The TC4 is a good, solid starter car for USVTA. I loan mine out to beginners and people wanting to try out on-road. So far, the only thing they've managed to break is a bunch of bodies and a c-hub or two.

Good luck!

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

Better shocks, servo saver, and aluminum axles. That's all you need for durability.

I've broken:
Rear Body Posts
Turnbuckle End (get the TC6 ones, stronger, and they have holes to make role center adjustments easier)
Rear Hub
Castor Blocks

I'm consistently in the top half of the A Main and usually only a tenth or two off of the two fastest guys running an Awsomatix and Xray.

scirocco14

iTrader: (5)

You left off steering rack...I know because I sold you one at the track!

Mark

derekbsmith

iTrader: (25)

thanks guys! Whats the part # for the axles and the saver? Looking at the savox sc 1258tg black servo.

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

And the steering link. Guess I'm doing a good job repressing the memory of that day lol.

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

The Xray saver is popular. Just be prepared to dremel some of the chassis for clearance.

scirocco14

iTrader: (5)

The Factory Team aluminum CVD dog bones:

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...pl?pn=ASC31034

Nitro TC3 drive axles:

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi....pl?pn=ASC2402

derekbsmith

iTrader: (25)

is this fix or mod still relevant considering your links and dialing back the EPA? I noticed the part he mentioned is discontinued. Also, amain listed like 4 or 5 xray servo savers. Which one?
Will the tc7 shock kit fit on the tc4? Thanks!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xni_LbSmT8s

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Get the low profile servo instead and save some weight: Savox SC-1251MG Black

I like a plastic ball diff and plastic dogbones front and rear, saves weight and is so much easier for me to drive. Front tires last longer too, especially on the outdoor track I race on. Lighter drivetrain makes the throttle more snappy.

The TC6.2 DCV mod replaces the Average Joe's Losi mod, and it sure sounds like a good idea if you run a spool.

I use the Kimbrough servo #201

Make sure you get some spare outer hinge pins #3878 , Screw with Shoulder # 3875 and the block carrier bushings #3874. If you crunch a front corner it'll yard sale those small parts all over the track.

Hobbyking has some new shocks under the Trackstar name that look very promising.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2_S160323.html

Tc3 foam bumper and NTC3 wide plastic bumper help protect the front end:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNZ69
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBLY1&P=7