bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Wow..... Will, great run and you're correct about the lines though.
Mr SouthFL, your tc4 was darting bad(steering Mod needed), and got better as you ran... You do need more gear for this track(around 3.35fdr) , but you might need to warmup your rear diff good before you run to get consistency through the run... Also, the tc4 gets more predictable under constant slight throttle in the turns...
Post your setups too guys, so other "proven" racers can chime in...I experienced all these issues back in 2014, and I can't wait to test my BERT solutions...lol...Cheers...

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

You could be getting some battery fade but even worse is that when the battery voltage begins to drop, the heat goes up in both your battery and motor. Shorty packs are not ROAR legal in TC so don't bother. For any stock racing, you should be using batteries with at least 6000mah ratings. If you are on a budget, pick up a couple Turnigy ultra 7000mah batteries. They are pretty damn good for $50ish batteries.
Torque steer is pretty common in shaft drive cars but you want to be sure it's not just a suspension issue first. Start with the droop screws and add about 0.5mm more droop in the front than you normally do. This will allow the weight to transfer a little more rearward during acceleration.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Actually it looks like you have too much initial steering. It's making the car dart around quite a bit.
What caster are you running 4 or 6 degrees?
Are you running any toe in the front?
How loose is your rear diff? A stiffer diff will soften your corner entry and help transfer weight under acceleration. (add heavy diff grease to the ball diff)
Stand up your front shocks if they are on the lower tower position.
Less sauce on the fronts will calm the car down at the start.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Maybe turning the Steering ratio down to 80-85% may help.

Hey SouthFloridaApp do you have a diff or a spool in the front?

Personally I've never like a diff in the front, like the drive out of a corner that a spooler offers!!!

SouthFloridaApp

iTrader: (6)

Great info guys.... I did turn down my dual rate on the drivers stand.

I am not sure what caster setting I have.

I am running zero toe in the front and 3 degrees toe in in the rear.

I have played with the diff settings a bit.. I need to check to see whether they loosened up. FYI I have ball diffs front and rear.... right now I have the plastic diffs and am very close to the stock settings...

I purchased the lightened outdrives and kits as I was wearing the outdrives out a bit. Via my off road experience, I noticed that when the rear outdrives are worn my Tekno short course truck was a bit unpredictable. I assume the same will happen for on road.... The lightened ones are not installed yet....

Can you recommend a heavy diff grease. Could I use an automotive grease that I have from Lucas Oil? It should be heavier than the associated grease...

My front shocks are one from the inner hole on the shock tower and the inside hole on the arm (also 40 weight oil). In essence, if I stiffen the front shocks via tower/arms the car will be more controllable???? I know that I would lose steering from this, but I do have way too much steering....I think I am at like 65-70 with my dual rate....

I am running blue springs (I believe they are 17.5 lbs.... I did purchase stiffer springs.. I have one pair of gold 19.5 lb springs and one pair of 22 lb red springs. I was thinking of stiffening up the set up.... possibly golds in the rear and reds in the front. Any thoughts?????

I can try saucing just half of my front tires...

I am new to TC racing, but isn't a battery more than 5000 mah not allowed at roar events?

Also, I tried browsing over the rules and found this on batteries....
The maximum 2s brick/stick case::
Length: 139mm
Width: 47mm
Height: 25.1mm

My point for the above specs is that is does not say that I cannot use a smaller battery. Am I wrong?

So many great tips... I have written them down and will try them at the track... Keep em coming..

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

If you're running the stock caster blocks, they're probably 4 degree, which is perfectly fine. More caster takes away some of the cars turn-in, but gives more on-power and can smooth out the transition. Less caster, like the 2 or 0 degree blocks, gives more turn-in and off-power steering.

The three degree rear toe block is good, i wouldn't swap it out.

As far as the diffs go, I would take the diff balls out of the front diff, clean the grease out, and reassemble it dry except for a dab of grease on the pinion and ring gear to make a slipper-spool. You may have to adjust your shims to make sure the mesh between the ring and pinion gears are right. Every new touring car comes with a front spool as standard, as it gives much more control on and off power. If it causes your car to have a push, there are a million different ways to add steering back into the car. I would bet money you go faster with a spool. Really, two diffs is only an off-road or foam tire class thing anymore.

In your rear differential, I would recommend just using the standard white silicone grease. The silicone greases we use are not technically a good grease, they don't insulate metal parts from each other very well, but they are used in the diff because they can lube a metal-to-plastic surface pretty well, and still allow the diff ball and diff ring to 'bite' and have enough friction to keep them from slipping the diff under power. Using a lithium/carbon/moly sulfide grease will mean you would need to put a LOT of tension on the diff to keep it from slipping under power. Assemble with just a dab of silicon grease, a little black grease on the thrust bearing assembly, and set it to taste. I set mine such that it just barely wont slip under power, but if you prefer the feel of a tighter diff you can tighten it.

As for your alignment and springs, I would drive with a spool before swapping springs. Your blue springs are a pretty standard piece, springs heavier than 18 pounds or so are almost extinct in touring car racing.

Basically, i think a spool will help you a lot, and don't put 1:1 scale car grease in your diff.

Good Luck.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I would only use the steel outdrives in the front with some ofna diff lock lube(#10230) in the balls, and still run plastic outdrives in the rear(tightened for perfect corner rotation)... I would keep blue springs & 40wt all around with three hole pistons + bladders(no foams)... Make sure your shocks are of equal lengths, and set your swaybar tweak... After that, reduce your steering EXPO to -30% to tame your initial steering response...THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO CHECK IS YOUR WHEEL BEARINGS: IF THEY ARE CATCHY, CHUCK THEM ! I spent so much time chasing setups due to catchy wheel bearings, it's unreal...

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

I had 0 degree caster, stock, with the option of adding shims under the front of the front suspension mounts for 2 or 4 degree of caster. Just a thought, might be easier than purchasing caster blocks and then deciding you want to change it.

heretic

I think this is good advice- at least I would have said exactly the same. One additional tip (that I owe to my buddy www.overrc.com) is not to put too much black grease on the thrust. If you do so, the black grease can find its way to the main balls along the screw and ruin your diff requiring to take it apart and rebuild it thoroughly.

Desert Rat, how would you make a ball diff semi-tight? On the tiny carpet track where I run these days, my car seems to like a tighter rear diff quite a bit. Problem is the diff becomes a bit crunchy pretty fast. I have tried with ceramic balls in the thrust and carbide main balls: in that case the big balls seem to suffer. I have replaced the bigger balls by ceramic ones, and then it's the thrust plates which become notchy, because I have to put more tension on the assembly. I have also tried AW grease on the main balls (slips too easily, as I feared) and 1 million Tamiya grease (a bit better but inconsistent, and the thrust still loses its smoothness over time).

Any ideas? I was wondering if there was an option for ceramic thrust rings somewhere, or at least some harder metal than the stock ones.

heretic

I have tried that and the results were totally different. Honestly the car came to life the second I got rid of the 2degree kickup and put 4 degree caster blocks. I found the car was much, much more predictable and I kicked myself for not doing it earlier.

GimpyGolden

iTrader: (1)

So whats your DCV mod, Just Losi's or something new?

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

Something new. TC6 hubs and DCVs. Then you just have to drill a hole in the hub to get the Ackerman close to stock.

Pretty sure that's all that was involved.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

I use these: http://avidrc.com/product/5/accessor...cessories.html

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

My VTA setup (same as my 17.5 Spec setup, other than body and tires)

Don't know how the front shock mount at arm didn't make the trip to Petitrc. It's the outer hole.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/ass..._VTA201509.pdf

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

SouthFloridaApp

What is the asphalt like?

Doesn't look seal.

And doesn't look like it's been soda treated.

Is it bare asphalt?

All of the above makes for some differences in setup.

Also, what sauce are you using?