fasteddie48

Thank you mark. Im gonna get a setup station asap. what do you prefer for the tc4?

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

If you spin the tire, you will get another camber reading... Trust BERT on that one, get a setup station !

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Are these parts advertised as aluminium for weight reduction or magnetic disturbance? Even if they don't affect the EMF, there's still a good reason to buy them. And please don't use snake oil salesmen as scientific proof.

scirocco14

iTrader: (5)

I use a Hudy setup station for my cars. Yes, I know it's expensive but when it comes to tools I've always paid a little extra for quality. I did have to ream the holes slightly in the setup station uprights since the TC4 axles are SAE threads. They're made for the metric cars (just about everything else).

Mark

Boomer

He's trusting Mark on it and setup wheels will do just fine, or a good, new, set of rims (without rubber).

scirocco14

iTrader: (5)

The credit card method will get Ed in the ballpark until he can get a proper setup station.

All the other BERT mods are up to him. lol...

Mark

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

HI eddie, good job on improvising with the credit cards. As you've all ready found out, we don't all ways have all the right tools all of the time. And good job choosing all the same springs. This will make it easier to set up your car to your liking.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

As someone who took electromagnetism physics in college and knows a little about how eddy current or Lenz braking works, I say Fantom is lying through omission and I was going to just leave it at that but...

Then I realized that I can TEST this as well!

*gets out G-force motor analyzer, hooks up Trinity 13.5 motor, powers on*

It's simple, if a steel screw is bad and an aluminum screw is better, then NO SCREW AT ALL must be GREAT!.... right guys? No metal at all, no supposed power and rpm robbing Lenz effect!

*loosens one steel screw, spins motor up to max free-spin at 7.5 volts, sees reading of 25,550, plus or minus 50 RPM.*

*removes steel screw with motor free-spinning, no RPM increase*

*loosens and removes a SECOND screw at free-spin, no RPM increase.*

And just to top it off, putting the screws back in resulted in no RPM drop either.

Well, so much for that.

If i had a meter that could spin my 3.5 up to its free-spin limit of about 70,000 you might see a difference, but who cares at that level.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Eric Anderson TQ'd the snowbirds with the Fantom FR-1 motor.... Proof enough for me...You guys can go ahead and run your steel screws.... Only Aluminum screws in my Fantom FR-1 and titanium screws in my Novak ballistics... Cheers....

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

No, EA top qualified because EA is a damn good radio controlled car racer.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

EA is a good racer, and a top motor guy... You can't TQ the snowbirds with a garbage motor, even if you are a top driver...
I win Desert, enough said....lol....

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

A simple 12" steel ruler with metric measurements makes a great setup tool. You should be able to pick up one for around $5 USD at an office supply store or less at a store like Harbor Freight. Here are some examples:

(http://www.staples.com/Westcott-12-S...product_103960)

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/rulers.html

While it can't be as accurate as a setup station, you can do all of the following with a basic ruler...
- Use it as a simple camber gauge
- Check the length of shocks and turnbuckles to make sure they are equal side to side
- Check ride height
- Check droop settings
- Check front toe
- Help mark/locate holes to mount a painted body
- As a straight edge to trim a new body or cut out decals

You can also pick up inexpensive 6" digital calipers at Harbor Freight for around $10 USD. If you plan on using calipers to measure toe (from wheel to wheel) I would recommend 12" calipers, which would be more expensive.

----------

Basically with a few inexpensive hand tools, anyone should be able to adjust their cars enough to get them to handle consistently. That is not to say that there isn't value in specialized r/c tools, but don't feel you have to buy them when you are just starting out.

Although the one area you shouldn't go cheap on is allen/hex tools. You want them to have quality tips or you will end up ruining the heads on your screws, ESPECIALLY if you are using lightened screws on your car.

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

Good tip IndyRC Racer, I've used a 12" rule for years. All though I have found that an aluminum rule reads faster and is lighter to lift. I've cut my measuring time by .00002 of a second.

fasteddie48

So, typically I read alot of information before opening my mouth or asking for help. I'm very new here and don't want to ruffle feathers, but after reading thru almost 100+ plus pages, Bert I'm sorry but I can't take you seriously. I appreciate your offer, but tinfoil hats aren't my thing. I'd like to thank you guys for your advice this far, I'm sure I'll need more!

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

And here I am back in the stone age with my all analog dial calipers. I need to up my game, save some time in the pits to save time on the track.