300LikesTeam Associated TC4
11-01-2015, 01:49 AM
The thing with sanding the diff cases is that it lowers the diff, and so it changes the angle of the dogbones as well. I'm told that there is a tendency for a Cardan joint to straighten itself under load. So I'm not sure how this would translate in terms of car behavior. Not saying this would be a bad thing (although intuitively it feels wrong), just something that seems worth keeping in mind.
11-02-2015, 06:10 PM
When I was running my FTTC4, I swapped out the AE button head 3mm motor screws for cap head screws. This made it easier to use a ball end hex driver. Du-bro makes inexpensive ball end wrenches in various sizes. Here is a link on Towerhobbies (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ro+ball+wrench).
Even with different screws, it can be a pain to deal with the motor mount on a FTTC4. I've considered modifying my FTTC4 motor mount so I can remove the motor without taking the screws totally off the motor.
Even with different screws, it can be a pain to deal with the motor mount on a FTTC4. I've considered modifying my FTTC4 motor mount so I can remove the motor without taking the screws totally off the motor.
Last edited by RotorTruck; 11-03-2015 at 11:02 AM.
11-08-2015, 10:22 AM
Anyone know a wheel hex that will give some positive offset?
I'm looking to widen my track since we have no limit on the wood track we run on and wider seems to work better.
I was thinking grab something from a buggy maybe but most are metric and we have 3/16 axles on the TC4. Maybe an old AE or Losi part?
Would like to gain 1.5-2mm per side.
I'm looking to widen my track since we have no limit on the wood track we run on and wider seems to work better.
I was thinking grab something from a buggy maybe but most are metric and we have 3/16 axles on the TC4. Maybe an old AE or Losi part?
Would like to gain 1.5-2mm per side.
11-08-2015, 01:45 PM
MoparSRT is the one who told me about using SC10 hexes to widen the track of the TC4. I don't remember the part number, but they are probably 8mm wide or a little more.
11-08-2015, 02:15 PM
11-08-2015, 07:08 PM
SC10 2wd
#9883 Comes with front and rear hex
Front is the same size as TC4
the rear are thicker
IF you need longer axles to mount your wheels with the rear hexes, RC10B3 rear axles will bolt up. Notice in picture that the dog bones will go in deeper into the diff's, because of where the wheel bearing stops <<< don't have a better name for this, on B3 axles.
Ran these when I raced VTA with a Parma 70 Cuda body.
#9883 Comes with front and rear hex
Front is the same size as TC4
the rear are thicker
IF you need longer axles to mount your wheels with the rear hexes, RC10B3 rear axles will bolt up. Notice in picture that the dog bones will go in deeper into the diff's, because of where the wheel bearing stops <<< don't have a better name for this, on B3 axles.
Ran these when I raced VTA with a Parma 70 Cuda body.
Last edited by tmail55; 11-08-2015 at 07:20 PM.
11-09-2015, 05:18 AM
ASC2402 is the part number fro the CV axles I'm using with the wide hexes.
11-09-2015, 06:23 AM
Awesome, thanks guy's. I'm going to widen up the rear to start to get it out to ~190mm anyways, much more I'd be worried about rubbing the body. Probably going with the alloy clamping version 9892.
I had trimmed my axles originally so will need new stubs I guess. NutDriver, do you know if those NTC3 stubs are same as a stock TC4 one? Seems a better deal to buy em that way if they are.
I had trimmed my axles originally so will need new stubs I guess. NutDriver, do you know if those NTC3 stubs are same as a stock TC4 one? Seems a better deal to buy em that way if they are.
11-09-2015, 07:39 AM
I have no idea, honestly. The 2402s come assembled and I haven't tried to disassemble them. The axle and threads are looking enough that I would be concerned with hanging the threads on a board if I didn't have the wide hexes.
11-09-2015, 07:57 AM
ASC2402 these look sweet. THANKS Nutdriver!
The axle #3886 is the same for the TC4 and NTC3
Reason I used B3 axles was I had them.
The axle #3886 is the same for the TC4 and NTC3
Reason I used B3 axles was I had them.
11-09-2015, 10:50 AM
MoparSRT is the one who told me about them. He ran the raceVTA.com site, but it seems to be gone now. ��
11-10-2015, 07:46 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
besides associated who else sells a graphite chassis for this car?
11-10-2015, 09:12 AM
Penguin R/C sells one. There is another company that has one in testing stages at present.
11-11-2015, 06:23 AM
11-11-2015, 06:30 AM
I put the SC10 rear hex's last night, gives 5mm extra width in total.
I had to file the flange that seats against the hub bearing some as the hub wouldn't go on far enough to capture the drive pin. With that all done and a new set of stub axle's you don't get a lot of thread for the wheel nuts but it's enough I'm comfortable.
I use aluminum flanged M4 wheel nut's, basically just crank em on and let the axle's cut new threads. Makes for a nice tight fit, even better than a nyloc. Other plus is they fit most wheels better than the bigger 8/32 ones.
Next thing to tackle is grinding some C-Hub so these Losi LCD's don't rub and tear up the heat shrink that secures the pin.
I had to file the flange that seats against the hub bearing some as the hub wouldn't go on far enough to capture the drive pin. With that all done and a new set of stub axle's you don't get a lot of thread for the wheel nuts but it's enough I'm comfortable.
I use aluminum flanged M4 wheel nut's, basically just crank em on and let the axle's cut new threads. Makes for a nice tight fit, even better than a nyloc. Other plus is they fit most wheels better than the bigger 8/32 ones.
Next thing to tackle is grinding some C-Hub so these Losi LCD's don't rub and tear up the heat shrink that secures the pin.