beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

All kinds of them on eBay. This is a link to one of my favorite sellers. I buy TC3 parts from them all the time and they are very reliable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TC4-Factory-...item5671b13359

gooba

iTrader: (5)

I took the seals off all my bearings on my indoor car so I remove,clean,and re oil after every race day. My outdoor car runs sealed ceramic bearings so I don't do them as much maybe every 5th session or so.

Motors depends on running surface. On carpet I used compressed air after every race day to blow the motor out thru the vent holes and add a drop of oil to the bearings on each end and I pull the motor clear apart at the end of the season. Outdoor in parking lots or when I run dirt oval I pull the motor clear apart after every race day just incase as I've had grit ruin a motor.

1967Typhoon

iTrader: (35)

What is the narrowest you can get the TC4 wheelbase. I want to put a 251mm body (240z Rally) body on the car, and the TC4 is listed as 259mm. Can all 6 of the shims go on one side to narrow it up?

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

I just took a quick look at my TC4. If you run the shims on the front/rear a-arms on the car so it is a short as possible, it should be around 255mm long (if measuring between the center point of the front and rear axles).

If shimming the a-arms doesn't make the car short enough, you could easily modify the rear uprights/hub carriers to shorten the car by 4mm. You could easily use a cutoff wheel/sander to remove the 2 "nubs" that are on either side of the carrier where it mounts to the hinge pin. Below is a picture of the hubs from AE, and you should be able to see the part that could be removed. After the modification, you would need some shims to take away any slop.

You can also use TC3 rear uprights/hubs as they are a couple mm shorter than a stock TC4 hub. They use the same hinge pin diameter, so they would be a direct fit (other than some shims to take away slop).

If you do decide to modify rear uprights/hubs to shorten the car, pay attention to the angle of the rear cvds/dog bones. If the angle becomes too severe, it may cause binding in the suspension and/or cvd.

Hope this info helps.

TC4 steering knuckles & rear uprights/hubs


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Edit: After coming up with a solution to your problem, I might try this out on the VTA car I run at a small indoor track A shorter wheel base might help it to rotate better around our track without having to remove the a-arms to adjust the overall length. I might also play around with some TC4 rear hubs on an old TC3.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Saturday went out to the track for test n tune. Had a great time but found out the rear ball diff is tightening up as it heats up. When the car is cold its a loose rear diff where you can turn one rear tire and the other rear tire turns in opposite direction, and the driveshaft doesn't turn. After a run turn one rear tire and the other rear tire turns in same direction and it turns the driveshaft too.

Its the factory club rear ball diff with plastic outdrives. Acer Ceramic balls, stock and serviced diff bearings. Used AE silicone and AE black grease for the rebuild.

Is my only choice to run the diff a tad looser to begin with?

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Sound like the nut inside the diff needs to be replaced. Here is a link to an exploded view of a FT TC4.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...wing_FTTC4.pdf

On the right side of this page, it shows a nice exploded view of the plastic & steel diffs (so you can see how they are built differently). The lock nut inside the PLASTIC diff is AE part # 3904 (2-56 locknut). Here is a link on TowerHobbies for the part and they are less than $3 USD for 5.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXG90&P=7

The nylon in the locknut can wear out, which probably is causing your diff to change settings during a run. If you ever over-tighten the diff, it can also cause the nylon to wear out or even break out of the nut.

The only other time I had an issue with a PLASTIC diff where I could not get it adjusted properly, it turned out I had a bad plastic diff half. If you are going to have the diff out of the car to replace the nut, you might as well replace the diff halves if you suspect they have been overheating (or show signs of wear). The part number for the plastic outdrives/diff halves is AE #3908. You can get 2 sets for less that $4 USD. Here is a link on TowerHobbies.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXG96&P=7

Hope this info helps.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Thanks IndyRC, I'll pull the diff at some point but when I rebuilt it, I used new bolt and locknut, and put a dab of blue locktite paste on the nut. Was careful to never tighten it fully.

MrPuke

I am currently running my tc4 in VTA class at my local track and doing pretty well with it. One thing I wish I could figure out is my lack of corner speed. A few other racers are running Xrays and really get through the corners nicely. Any help on some VTA setup tips, medium traction indoor carpet track?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Its a very difficult diagnose and make recommendations for tuning changes online. It might be better to ask one of the fast guys about their setup and try emulating them, what's good for one car is most likely just fine for another.

One other thing I would recommend looking into, especially racing VTA on carpet with a wide-chassis TC4, is make sure your car isn't dragging the chassis on the rug in corners. Cars that are soft and dragging the chassis in hard corners can appear to drive erratically, sometimes having a bad corner-entry, high-speed push or unexplainable oversteer that isn't corrected by softening the rear of the car. If you have black tire goo on your chassis underside at the end of a run, correction is needed.

edonsohc

iTrader: (10)

I've got a friend who has a factory team tc4 he's running in vta. the car pushes like crazy when turning. u have get all the way off power to get it to turn. then it still doesn't want to turn. we run on carpet. he has green springs in the rear and silver in the front. 30wt ae shock oil. any suggestions on how to get this thing to turn would be greatly appreciated.

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

I just rebuilt the front and rear diffs on a TC4 I just got used. They were very clean and in very good condition when I took them apart. I washed all the parts, reapplied black grease to the thrust washers and balls, reapplied silicone grease on the ring gear and diff balls. Reassembled the diff according to the manual. Backed the bolt out 1/2 turn (composite diffs) as stated in the instructions. The diff action is extremely stiff and they don't diff freely. Is this normal....I am used 1/12 scale where diff action has almost no resistance.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Really not normal. Back off the setscrew until the diff just barely won't slip under power, thats all the tension it needs. The "Back off a 1/2 turn" part is B.S.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

If he has the carbon fiber FT kit, try removing the outer stiffeners so the chassis will twist a little. Make sure the droop is set correctly and there is no binding in the suspension. Can you post the setup? This car should turn like a champ on carpet so if it's not, there is usually something wrong. Incorrect droop seems to be the most common mistake noobs make.

edonsohc

iTrader: (10)

i removed the outer standoffs already. i'll recheck the droop. I can't remember where it is off the top of my head. thanks.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

I forgot to mention the rear diff. Make sure it operates smooth and free.