Humyu

iTrader: (9)

Hi
TC4Racer123,

have you tried using 10.5t with boost/turbo on ur tc4? Can give me setups and parts to have 4 spare. Races in my country starting to use 10.5t. Before was using 11.5t. I new with Tc4. Just normal TC4 not the FTTc4. Really need advise.

Thanks

TC4Racer123

iTrader: (9)

Well I don't 10.5t. We used to race 13.5, now we race 17.5. Anyway, what kind of track are you running on?? Asphalt or carpet? Do you have the parma hard front bumper mentioned earlier? Its extremely helpful. I really need to know what kind of track your running on.

Humyu

iTrader: (9)

We run on tarmac , track size varies as it a make shift track(parking lot). No dont't have the parma hard front bumper. don't think can get it here locally. We going to have 13.5 and 17.5 races but most probably next year.

highrpm666

Hi all, I just acquired a used FT TC4 locally on craig's list, I actually traded a Traxxas Rustler vxl roller for the thing and its also my very first Associated car. I currently race 17.5tc with an HPI sprint 2 and have been having stellar results with the hpi, but I have been looking for a more competitive chassis and this thing basically fell into my lap. I plan on using this as my new carpet chassis since I am on a tight budget and cannot afford a fancy Xray or TRF etc.. I printed myself up a manual for the car off of the FT website and have figured out that I am missing a few parts here and there. SO, what I need to know is how to set this thing up for the carpet running rubber tires and what parts I will need. I am missing the chassis spline plate and mounts and I am missing the standoffs as well as the swaybars. From the looks of it all of the suspension geometry is stock and un-tampered with. The only thing that has been changed is the springs/ride height and the removal of the swaybars etc(it was previously a drifter). It has the standard CF upper and lower chassis not the ITF. I looked around the net for setup's for rubber on carpet and found a few but they varied greatly and I just need a solid starting point w/a little bit a push so I can start to understand the car. I still need to replace the diff housings due to stripped out lowers, and replace all of the hardware as it is all stripped out. This will be a build in progress and I will be checking back here frequently for help. I will be using a Tekin RS/17.5redline combo and the track I run on is currently a scale replica of the 2010 IIC Vegas setup and since its so awesome I assume it will stay this way for a few months. Thanks ahead for your help!

oldpugva

Have a new TC4. Updated to brushless and Lipo. Very happy with everything except for how it 'tracks'. I think the analog server needs replacing. It just does not want to stay centered (nothing is loose or broken).

Thoughts on a good servo at a reasonable price?

How about this Airtec ??

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

What servo saver spring is in the steering rack? If it is the stock spring, then it will never center regardless of the servo you purchase. Its common to use a diff spring in its place. Compress the diff spring completely and just barely back it off.

Just keep in mind, if your servo isnt a metal gear servo, then this trick will leave your servo gears more vulnerable to breakage. There always seems to be a negative with something positive...

TC4Racer123

iTrader: (9)

I'd put blues in the front and silver or green in the back. If your losing grip through turns- go with a softer spring in the back. If you have too much body roll, sacrifice some grip. I'd put 32.5-35-37.5 oil all around. I'd probably put a ride height of about 5 all around.
Dan

oldpugva

Thank you Dave. Good recommendation. The idea behind the digital server is to ensure the wheels return to 'center' when the wheel is released. The spring will certainly help with that process.

Appreciate the great tip!

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

No problem.

I still use analog servos, Airtronics 94357's and they center very well. Although i have heard some people complain about centering issues with them, i have yet to have a problem, or felt the need to make the step to digital servos. I just hate to spend $ on something if i dont really need to.

I dedicate one servo for TC, and others for my offroad classes... i never mix and match. Offroad and larger scale chassis seem much harder on servo internals (not only the gears, but the electrical parts too), and seem to degrade much faster.

I only mention that, wondering if you had your current servo in a truck or something of that nature. If so that may have created a centering issue with your current servo, and it would be more noticeable in a more responsive chassis such as a TC.

Humyu

iTrader: (9)

Thanks TC4Racer123 will give it a try.

Cheers

TC4Racer123

iTrader: (9)

No problem.

oldpugva

Picked up a TC4 a while back to build up for RCGT. Had to replace the analog server with digital after the first outing. It would not center fast enough on analog. Since going digital - it has been really good.

Issue now is springs and possible sway bar. I am a little fishy out of the turns and have to be careful with the throttle or I will end up sideways.

Thoughts? Looking to go to SILVER and GREEN for front and rear respectively. I run on asphalt (very smooth and fast).

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

I would try and stay away from the swaybar if you could. You can end up with a faster car if it is setup without one, but that just depends on whats comfortable for you.

My Tc4 did the same thing. It wants to spin out coming off the corner on power. Heres the changes i made that got rid of most of it for our asphalt...

Front shocks: Red AE spring, #1 piston, 50wt oil, inner hole on arm, #2 hole on tower (counting from the centerline of the car)

Rear shocks: Green AE spring, #1 piston, 40wt oil, outer hole on arm, #3 hole on tower (counting from the centerline of the car)

4 degree caster blocks (tried 6 degree blocks, too much caster)

Are you using any washers under the ballstuds on the steering rack? Im using a silver ballstud (+.030 over a black ballstud) and another .030 washer under each steering rack ballstud.

Which hole are you using on the steering knuckle? If youre using a front diff, use the inside hole on the steering knuckle... and be sure your steering turnbuckles are parallel with the lower control arm at static ride height. This is your bumpsteer adjustment, and varies with the caster blocks you use, suspension shim choice under the suspension mounts, and the number of washers under the steering knuckle ballstud.

If you can, try to crossweight the car on an MIP Tweak Station, or someones balance beam. The shaft cars are really sensitive to crossweight changes, or lack thereof. If your on power oversteer was mostly to the right, and not so much to the left... then this is something you need to look into. If you dont have threaded shock bodies for the fine adjustments, let me know... i have like 6 full sets of them, and youre more than welcome to one.

I also shortened the front camber link one hole, but we use grape soda on our track. That difference, and the X pattern tires you use for RCGT may not require that change. Also, make sure you are building your shocks with as little rebound as possible (AE's bleeder caps preferred), it will provide the best overall 'feel' for asphalt.


Quick pix:




This weekend, i am testing my theory that it is the Tc4 steering rack that causes the majority this 'off the corner, on throttle oversteer' problem and installing a Tc3 steering rack. I havent had a Tc3 rack in a Tc4 tub in many years, and that was on carpet... so we will see. If so, then the chassis can be tuned to go faster without this issue...

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

DeeDubYa. You have corrosion on the upper bumper screw. You can't be my friend anymore until you fix that.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

I think shes aging quite well!!