RCMits

iTrader: (30)

the losi hubs are:

LOSA9847
0 Degree

LOSA9852
1/2 Degree

LOSA9853
2 Degree

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

By washers i assume you mean whats under the ballstud? With that said i run none... its a silver longneck ballstud... and i use a black shortneck inside... and make my rollcenter/washer changes there. As mentioned, they are Losi rear hubs, the 0 degree NON offset hubs.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

The CVD's are original TC3 goods... the composite AE parts. They are like 10$ for four of them. They are great for stock and 19T with diffs... one-ways and spools will break them easily. That set i have literally had for years... they last forever when used with the light plastic outdrives. They are mainly for stock, to remove as much weight from the driveline as possible to get a little faster throttle response... in 19T ill use them with a plastic rear diff and a lightened-steel front diff to add a bit of flywheel effect to the driveline, the steel diff adding weight on the nose for more steering on/off throttle, and makes it a bit easier to throttle drive the car. (well for me anyways)

LaxRacer

Actually I was refering to the hinge pin or wrist pin for the hub. The ones I have are just smaller then the AE opening, so i had to put 2 washers on the pin to keep it from floating on the pin.

Hope that makes sense. If my girl didn't have my camera I would take a picture of mine.


C

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

AH! Sorry... i use no shims as seen in that pic... its a front arm on the rear of the car... the fit is just right with no shims. When i DO use a rear arm, i use two .030 shims, one on each side of the hub to place it in the center. If that isnt enough shims to keep it from moving around, then use a few smaller shims to snug it up... but not so tight that the suspension binds. Losi makes a shim kit that has shims with the same inner diameter as the AE TC4/3 outer hingepins... regular motor shims fit the inside hingepins. The arm should move up and fall freely under its own weight with no shock attached... if it does not then the shimming is too tight. There is a fine line of too tight and too loose... to remove ALL of the hub and arm slop, the suspension will not move freely... unlike all of the current cars on the market that seem to have "better" fit and finish.

ioxqq

I just built my TC4 and see a problem. Hope you guys can help me to slove.

My TC4 has installed the following: 27T stock motor, Futaba MC800C esc, s9550, 203HF and Orion Lipp 3200.

The problem of my TC4 is the left and right turn is not balance. First I understand all the cars have uneven left and right turn. But my case is soo extremely. When I turn right, everything is fine. Making a nice circle. But when I turn left the car makes the turn tooo fast and turn too much. It is not controlable. I have check everything like downstop, camber, linkage position, shocks and confirm they are 100 % setup correctly. Do you know what cause the problem? Do you think too much play on the front suspension caused this? Thanks!

RCMits

iTrader: (30)

actually strike that.. i think the part number is:

Rear Hub Carriers: XXX-S(LOSA2226)



i was looking at the other part number i posted.. and they look offset..



so it has to be the losa2226

ralph_c

I've just noticed the same problems as ioxqq. Anyone know a fix? The steering lock is the same both ways so I think it might just be the weight balance throwing it off. At my track we run clockwise, so most of the turns are right handers. I just can't carry the same corner speed through there as other cars. Will have to balance the car again and see if it's better.

ioxqq

ralph_c: I think this is not much related to the balance. As I went tc3 for like 4 years running 3300mah battery. The TC3 is even more not balance then tc4. And my TC3 is prefectly running. So, I assume balance is not the most issue here. It must be something else mainly.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

This is in reference to the tub car, right? Are you using any sway bars? My TC3 was way off balance in comparison to my TC4 using the same cells/electronics. I know a Lipo pack is alot lighter than a standard NiMh pack... seems to me it would be a weight balance issue. In your case, because your battery is lighter, you need to try and use the smallest spur gear that you can get your ratio with. Moving the motor closer to the centerline of the car will help some, and the lightest servo you can use with the right amount of power will help as well. The rest you will have to do with a tweak station... saying that, i am assuming you are tweaking your car? When you have the car on a tweak station, move some weight around on the battery side to see if it helps any with the balance... after tweaking the car with the added weight, try driving it and let us know if it helps the problem.

Other than that, i would check to see if you have any damaged steering parts (hubs/wheelbearings/etc), and check to see if you have the same caster blocks L/R... maybe you have a 2* on one side and a 6* on the other?

S_fender

Put 20% less turn on the left than on the right on your Radio. It's a well known problem.
On the tc3 left and right C-hub were different and that why there wasn' any problem.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

This would be a problem if he goes lock to lock with his steering... do you set your car up to go lock to lock? I use 100 on the DR and 55-60% of throw L/R and dont even come close to bumping the caster blocks, on either car. I wonder if the link from the servo to the steering kit is arranged properly... if it isnt, it will act like he stated also.

S_fender

Yes it could be also the the link from the servo to the steering kit that isn't arranged properly. But if it's so violent i'm sure he have to much steering on left. it's due to the shaft.
Th tc3 c hub give a difference of 16 % less (estimated) on the left.

Veteq

I have tried the lipo in my FT TC4 and it did exactly the same thing. My car was setup for mod with IB 4200. The reason is the Lipo weighs a lot less compared to the IB 4200. The lipo weighs around 200 grams and the IB's weigh around 465 grams. So that means the car is really off balance. I would try adding weights to the battery side to make it balanced again

mrjake

Does anyone know the dimensions for the p/n 1731 bearings for the Heavy Duty One Way p/n 1729? Associated gives them as 3/8x5/16, but that can't be correct because the standard ball diff bearings are 3/8 id x 5/8 od and these bearings go in the diff housing at the same place. The standard 3/8x5/8 bearing is also too small to fit on the One-Way. I wonder if the "special" means these are metric (maybe 10x15mm?) or something like that.
Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks,
Bob J