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Old 12-21-2005, 01:36 PM
  #7411  
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Originally Posted by anthony390
just wondering

is that a FT upper deck on you tc4

Yep... its the FT upper deck with the "wings" removed. Nothing special... the factory guys are doing it for the FT on asphalt.

The ballstud mounts are custom... i cut down the stock blue FT ballstud mounts and they work (fit) well... but i wanted to try changing the positioning of the inner ballstud from stock. Only having one location to choose from isnt the issue... if you look close at the mount and the way it is made, its offset... i flip it over for an inner location. You have to remove the ballstud anyways to change it... this just uses less material in the interest of saving a bit of weight. The space under the ballstud is .025... just a bit more (higher) than the stock location of the FT. Since the link is a bit longer... i went a bit higher with the mount to compensate. The flip side is .040 for the outer position. This compensates for the shorter link with no need for washers.

Brian, Bob... are you guys going to make it to Mimis?

- Dave
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Old 12-21-2005, 02:01 PM
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-wyd
What is the Sabotta TC4 conversion?
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Old 12-21-2005, 02:52 PM
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i believe he is talking about stephen sobattkas short arm tc4 conversion.
the kit is a BMI chassis modified to fit shortarms,hingepin blocks and a few other odds and ends.stephen and his dad do all the machining on the arms and components and i make a special chassis kit for them.the kit is really nice.i am not sure on pricing though.you would need to pm stephen.
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Old 12-21-2005, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by protc3
i believe he is talking about stephen sobattkas short arm tc4 conversion.
the kit is a BMI chassis modified to fit shortarms,hingepin blocks and a few other odds and ends.stephen and his dad do all the machining on the arms and components and i make a special chassis kit for them.the kit is really nice.i am not sure on pricing though.you would need to pm stephen.
smac the setup Protc3 is talking about is the one I mentioned. BMI is working with Stephen Sabotta on this conversion. If BMI is cutting the graphite and helping out some it will be awesome.
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Old 12-21-2005, 03:13 PM
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DaveW at this time I wll be going to Mimi's the 14th.
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Old 12-21-2005, 03:27 PM
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Sweeeet.



- Dave
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Old 12-21-2005, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Sweeeet.



- Dave
Now I'm not saying my car will work but I will be their having fun with everyone.
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Old 12-21-2005, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Sweeeet.



- Dave
Dave W. I think the W stands for "what can I cut up next?"
Where've you been brother? Missin' ya at the track.
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Old 12-21-2005, 04:51 PM
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I don't think I will be making it down to MiMi's anytime soon.
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Old 12-21-2005, 08:37 PM
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hey guys

i've been running nitro sedan for almost five years. i got me a used factory team tc4 for christmas. it's in really good shape and i'm really excited to race it.

is there any kind of weak spot or things that are important to know about the car? what about some spare parts that are must haves?

thanks in advance for your input
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Old 12-21-2005, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
hey guys

i've been running nitro sedan for almost five years. i got me a used factory team tc4 for christmas. it's in really good shape and i'm really excited to race it.

is there any kind of weak spot or things that are important to know about the car? what about some spare parts that are must haves?

thanks in advance for your input
Steering rack...look out for excessive play after a few hits. Shim it up good. Also...Folks will tell you to get the 3-Racing steering rack. Bad idea. It costs more and still develops alot of slop over an extended period of time. Stick with the Associated rack and keep tabs on it.
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Old 12-21-2005, 09:36 PM
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thanks soviet

you know i had a ntc3 a few years back. the steering rack on this fttc4 looks the same. on my ntc3, i shortened the screw that holds the ackerman arm to lock it up and it worked good. i guess i'll do the same thing to my new ride because i notice that the steering is kindof sloppy.

anyways, here are some pics of my car:





and keep those tips coming guys. i sure can use them with the new car.
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Old 12-21-2005, 09:42 PM
  #7423  
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Ok...here's another to help you out Joe...

Mounting and de-mounting the motor is a bitch on the FT-TC4. Plus when using a ball hex driver the motor screw always seems to fall off the bit RIGHT BEFORE you get those first couple of turns into the motor.

Since it's 2.5mm for the motor screws...when mounting, hold the motor and use a STRAIGHT 2.5mm wrench initially. You can get the first few turns in by holding the motor at an angle, once both screws are in by a few turns, take your 2.5mm ball-head driver and finish the job.


Hope you kinda got what I meant there...
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Old 12-21-2005, 10:18 PM
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Hi ,

to mount the motor i just place the screws in the motor mount first and hold the chassis with the nose facing towards the floor, that way gravity keeps the screws where you want them. Then i place the motor in and screw the top screw in first and then the other screw. I use a Hudy hex ball driver and manage this without too much difficulty ( of course i don't have another hex-driver to compare this with). I guess its all about trial and error and what works for you.
Merry Xmas to all
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Old 12-21-2005, 11:02 PM
  #7425  
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Does anyone have a source for low-profile/flanged 8/32 wheel nuts for the TC4? I've been looking for something that uses a smaller wrench then 11/32.

Also I once saw a online store selling aftermarket telfon pistons for Associated shocks that were die cut instead of off a tree.
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