BlackKat

How do I adjust my droop going by gauge numbers as the tires wear to keep the same setup? 1mm for every 1mm of tire wear?

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

The math would work out 1mm for every 2mm of tire wear. When you measure the tire diameter you are measuring both radii (axle to outer edge both ways) where as far as droop and/or ride height are concerned you are only dealing with one radius (axle to the bottom).

I just check and adjust my ride-height and corner weights (tweak) between rounds rather than measure my tire diameter, etc and do the math (easy though it may be) and fart with the down-stops. May be the lazy man's way out, but I never find the difference in droop over the course of two heats and a main are enough to bother with. I DO check and re-set prior to the next race.

Scottrik

pt3

FT TC4 setup according to foam setup sheet.

As I was adjusting front toe and camber all around on my hudy setup system I thought I would check the rear toe with the circle block and the X-3.0 block...

I measured -2.5 on the left and -1 on the right????? I double check everything and all is right. It is mirroed left to right. Anyone else check it and seen a difference? I expected it to not be exactly 3 but atleast close to the same left to right.

Pete

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Well that is pretty much why i use my rideheight gauge to measure droop. There isnt really a way to be exact with the big steps on the droop gauge. But you can measure droop as an added amount of chassis lift above rideheight. As mentioned earlier, checking tweak is important between rounds, and making sure that tire diameter F/R is similar... some setups and driver styles wear front tires alot faster than rear tires (foams). The easiest way to be consistent (but NOT exact) is to start with a standardized amount of droop... like 5F and 4R on the AE droop gauge. Then after your car is ready to run, tweak and ride height measured, minus the front bumper and body, you can measure droop with a rideheight gauge. If your front rideheight is 5mm, then you lift the front of the car with the shock tower and holding the tires to the setup board, making sure the tires touch... but there isnt so much pressure on them that the tire is compressed. The idea is to extend the shocks so the droop screws take a set on the chassis, and then slide the rideheight gauge under the front of the chassis and take a measurement. From rideheight, a good place to start is .5mm. So total measurement would be 5.5mm... full extension. Start with 1mm-1.3mm in the rear over rideheight. If you measure in the middle of the chassis and move the screws in/out in each arm equal increments (i.e. 1/4 turn in... left and right arms), the measurements SHOULD stack up the same L/R if remeasured on a droop gauge for reference. It sounds kind of complicated but a few times doing it becomes a breeze and you can make droop adjustments w/o having to remove your tires and guesstimating if you have the arm in the right spot on the droop gauge (is that 4.5??... no thats more like 4.7...). The droop gauge is never flat anyways. Hope this helps.

- DaveW

BlackKat

Thanks. Would I be screwing the droop screws in for every 2mm of tire wear or out? LOL

Despite the fact that I've read a million different ways to describe how droop changes with tire wear I've never been able to understand the concept of how suspension travels more based on tire wear, I just do not understand it.

lotus1

iTrader: (21)

Finally got to run the car.Awesome.I'm running the foam setup WITHOUT the optional parts,(can't get them yet,next week).DBl pink/orange front,dbl pink rear.Brand new ozite carpet.5mm ride heaight all around.The car is very stable in the high speed chicane/s's,and hugs the rail in the high speed turns.Smooth and balanced.Now for the questions...1)when coming into the 180,letting off the throttle,I have a very bad push.Any slow speed turns the pushes like mad.2)The rear foams wore from 62mm to 58mm after 4 6minute runs.The fronts show hardly any wear.Any ideas to cure the low speed push?Any comments on the rear tire wear?I'm going tomorrow for some more testing and any ideas/comments would be very appreciated.Thanks,Mario.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I can't help with the pushing problem, but I would check my rear camber and rear toe to fix the rapid wear. Especially if you are getting uneven wear in the rear. I will mention also most foam racers dont start their foams that large. I belive foams wear more from 62 to 59 than from 59 and below. They find a sweet spot and wear better at a smaller diameter. This isn't from experience but from heresay.

lotus1

iTrader: (21)

andrew,I hear you on the start size.I've heard that also.Bein'cheap,figured I'd break them in with the practice.The thing that bothers me is the amount on the rear versus the front.I've heard that the fronts wear more than the rear normally.Just wondering if this is other peoples experience with this car.Thanks,Mario.Oh,The wear is even,just seems excessive to me.Camber and toe is good.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I know this sounds silly but are you sure you have the double pinks on the rear and the double pink/orange on the front? That kind of wear is not normal if you ask me. What about your tire rubbing on something besides the carpet, like the body? Just throwing ideas at you. What toe and camber are you running? Is there any way we can view your set up in its entirety?

lotus1

iTrader: (21)

Yes,dbl pink rear,dbl pink/orange front.Nothing rubbing,the setup is the foam standard setup that comes with the kit.The only differences is I used the stock parts instead of the optional ones.EX;the 2.5 istead of the 3.0 and the square instead of "O" in back.Going to practice again tonight,try out some ideas.Thanks,Mario.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Are you getting the same exxagerated wear from 59 down to 55 or whatever?

lotus1

iTrader: (21)

Won't know till later after practice.Wondering the same myself.Maybe it was just the searching for the proper size thing.Just thought the fronts would do the same or similar.Thanks,Mario.

Tigger

It's not based on tire wear alone. Think of it this way. As the tires wear down you need to raise the chassis (using shock collars) to maintain the chassis ride height. Whenever you do this you are changing the angle of the lower control arm relative to the chassis, because the droop screw controls this angle, that is what affects the droop.

By adjusting the droop screw (backing it out) to make up for the change in angle you'll maintain the same up (rebound) travel. If you don't adjust the droop at all with tire wear/ride height it'll reduce the up travel. With enough tire wear/ride height, eventually the droop screw may end up bottoming out against the chassis leaving you with no up travel.

Just remember to check and adjust for droop (up travel/rebound) whenever you adjust for ride height.

S_fender

Correct me if i'm wrong :

X 2.5 + square = 2.5 ° toe in
X 3.0 + "O" = 1° toe in

it could be the reason of your problem??

BlackKat

I think I understand. We adjust the droop to maintain the same angle of the arms as we preload the shocks more and more to maintain ride
height...correct?

If not...screw it. I'll just maintain a certain # over ride height....or take the stupid screws out of the arms

Fender:
The 3.0 block + the Circle block = 2 degrees rear toe