Team Associated TC4
#6061
Originally Posted by TPhalen
The initial parts on the Team TC4 did have a fair amount of slop. The new car has alot less slop. I just built mine (last week) that was a boxed and ready-to-ship kit...very little slop. After 2 race nights, still very little slop.
#6062
Originally Posted by TPhalen
Speaking of weight...I haven't checked the weight of the two vehicles yet. I took the motor and servo from my tub car for the new FT car....so, I guess I need to scrounge up another servo to check. I'll try to do it sometime this week.
#6063
TPHALEN: My comments were in reference to the assembled car, but can be seen either assembled or not. Hopefully, this wont ruffle any feathers... The right side of the chassis does flex more than the left. You can pick your car up and test it for yourself and see. If you take your thumb and place it on the side of the chassis, right in the middle of the servo area, and press towards the centerline of the car, that entire area flexes a great bit more than the same area on the left. The area that is moved out for placement of the servo reduces the stiffness of that side of the car. As a matter of fact, you can press that same area in AND out a great deal more than you can on the left. Yes there is less bracing in that area, between the bottom of the tub and the wall (side) of the chassis when compared to the battery side, but that is almost irrelevant when compared to the amount of material removed for battery placement. Idealistically, a solid piece of material, symmetrical in shape is the best, but design parameters dont allow that. For instance. The chassis bracing (wings) mounting points on the TC3/4 is wider in the back than the front. (the front being closer together, and deeper to the centerline) The FTTC4 is similar front to rear. I cant say they are identical, i do not have an actual car in front of me to mic out, but when compared to the 3 and the 4, the FT rear bracing is similar to the front bracing, both in length and depth, in relation to the centerline of the chassis. This one simple design difference would net a car with more rear traction, if everything else were possibly equal. Im sure the FTTC4 rear bracing is similar to the front bracing, not by design to add rear traction to the car, but to aid in motor removal and installation. The byproduct will be a car, with all things being equal, that will transfer lateral chassis twist across the front as it would across the rear.
I was not bashing on the TC4 design, i have been die hard AE from day one. (since the early 90's) All i was doing was pointing out one of its weaknesses, and that i am glad it has been fixed.
- DaveW
P.S. On a side note, IF the original TC4 tub had no sides, and was a flat plate design with the same overall shape, the effect of the servo area being different in size would be less noticeable. The fact the sides are linked to the lower portion of the chassis AND are mounting points for the "wings" (braces), this will make chassis flex more noticeable.
I was not bashing on the TC4 design, i have been die hard AE from day one. (since the early 90's) All i was doing was pointing out one of its weaknesses, and that i am glad it has been fixed.
- DaveW
P.S. On a side note, IF the original TC4 tub had no sides, and was a flat plate design with the same overall shape, the effect of the servo area being different in size would be less noticeable. The fact the sides are linked to the lower portion of the chassis AND are mounting points for the "wings" (braces), this will make chassis flex more noticeable.
#6064
Tech Regular
Fully ready to go with foam tires it was 4 tenths over. That was out of the box and I added some steel screws. Just by using alum. diffs it will be under weight.
#6065
Whatup Walt? How's the new car?
Greg
Greg
#6067
Rick........ shouldn't you be watching traffic?
#6068
FT TC4 Steel Dif
Is it just me or is the Factory Team TC4 instructions for the light weight steel diffs Wrong?
#6069
I think the instuction is wrong. I put it the other way and works fine.
#6073
Ordered my FT sat. from tower got it yesterday (tuesday). Car is sweet!!!
#6074
Recieved my FT TC4 the other day and I see there are two sets of outdrives for the diffs. Should I build the plastic or Steel? I would assume the steel.
I see people are questioning the instructions for the steel diffs. What needs to be corrected in the instrucitons? I see that they include a lock nut on the plastic diff and a T-nut on the steel diff. Should this be reversed? I would assume you could tighen down the steel diff more and therefore need more "beef" to make this happen and I would think the lock nut would do this better than the T nut.
Thank you,
K
I see people are questioning the instructions for the steel diffs. What needs to be corrected in the instrucitons? I see that they include a lock nut on the plastic diff and a T-nut on the steel diff. Should this be reversed? I would assume you could tighen down the steel diff more and therefore need more "beef" to make this happen and I would think the lock nut would do this better than the T nut.
Thank you,
K
#6075
Tech Lord
iTrader: (3)
I was at RC Madness in Enifeld CT and he had 5 in stock, one prominently displayed on the counter (calling my name, too ). So it's safe to say they're out.
BUILD THE STEEL DIFFS!!! I was up at madness for the regional and both of my plastic diffs melted during practice. Not only did I have to buy the lightened steel outdrives and rebuild both diffs, but the bearings inside were ruined by the melted plastic. When I showed this to some of the other racers, their response was "you didn't know about that?"
BUILD THE STEEL DIFFS!!! I was up at madness for the regional and both of my plastic diffs melted during practice. Not only did I have to buy the lightened steel outdrives and rebuild both diffs, but the bearings inside were ruined by the melted plastic. When I showed this to some of the other racers, their response was "you didn't know about that?"