Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Actually I am driving an All Associated car. But you ASSUMED that I wasnt. My sponsor supports BMI so I include them in my signature. I have been very impressed with the other BMI kits that I have seen and down the road will probably own both a FT and a BMI. Now that we are all done putting each other down, I would like to talk more about the car. I am coming from a mostly offroad background but I did run Schumacher for three years. I am impressed with the TC4 so far but I also feel that its lacking in certain areas. Some may be setup, some may be design, and im sure most is driver. I simply want to make sure that before I critisize the car that I give it an honest run. I feel to do that best is to ensure that my car is at least balanced and tweaked properly. Wouldn't you agree?

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Well, balance and tweak are certainly important. One of the issues with the Team car is that it lacks chassis tuning...the ability to tune the chassis itself to different situations. The FT TC4, as well as BMI's and IRS's chassis, all allow you to adjust the stiffness of the chassis to different situations. This is a key ingredient that most of the other manufacturers have been doing. All their cars have that advantage, at the cost of being more expensive.

We wanted to stay away from a high-priced super-sedan, but nowadays to win races, you need the adjustability of a super-sedan...thus, the FT TC4. Only problem is that the cost goes up.

DerekB

The TC5 isn't as stiff as my car I've yet to name.

Jan Larsen

iTrader: (2)

LOL, two factory guys and a "home-modder" going at it on a RC forum

Interesting read though.

Jan Larsen

iTrader: (2)

On another note; Mr. Deguzman or Mr. Phalen, can you please say when the conversion FTTC4 kit will be available? And what the price estimate will be?

gaz8

hi to all all the AE big boys are on here!!!

hows about some advice on how to set your car so it doesnt have any tweak in it!! a nice easy step by step guide would be a great help to some of your new customers
i see you have plenty of time on your hands for typing lately as the thread is full of yours posts go on but something back in to society and give your customers a helping hand!!
i know of ways to set the car for tweak etc
i just want to know from you guys if im doing it correctly
please dont dismiss this request as i think many of your customers would like to hear how to do it correctly!!!!!

i wait in hope!

cheers gaz

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I'm just wondering if the graphite for the new TC4 will be like what the L4 uses.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Are most of you guys running 4 degrees of caster and what rear toe in do most run. I normally run on extremely high bite asphalt with rubber tires. I mainly run stock and 19t. Traction is or almost seems to be like carpet.

WOuld like to get the car to 1 degree rear toe in per side if possble. I have run other cars but first time for the new TC4.

raving-monkey

3racing do a 1 degree rear toe block..seems really good quality aswell.

i jsut run 3 deg rear toe on my local track (carpet)....i was going to try 2.5 deg but didn't want to risk it being crap and me loosing TQ....i also run 0 deg castor blocks...again, i was going to try 4 (had them in my box so why not) but didnt because of the reason above.

if you want my setup, i will happily send it you..its for medium-semi high grip carpet with rubbers...19t that is, got my 1st TQ and win there aswell so it can't be that bad

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I will have to check into that part from 3 racing. Thanks for the info.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

DerekB: You crazy, man!

Jan Larsen: No info available on that yet.

wyd: Yes it is...and I know where yer going with this one....I think. The difference is that the L4 is 2mm with huge battery cutouts. The TC4 is 2.5mm with supports to stiffen the chassis.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Nope not saying anything bad. I like the L4 graphite and my buddy does great when racing a bone stock L4 against all these fangled cars coming out. I'm staying out of the graphite debate, I do run plenty of BMI graphite stuff on a few different cars but I have no engineering knowledge of any type so I'm ouuta that debate. All I will say is the BMI stuff is cut and has been finished better than other comapnies graphite I have used in the past 20 years. Not implying that the others are bad but for me I like not having to sand the cell slots. I hate doing that more than anything and graphite tastes bad!!!!! lol. Better not smile and should where a mask.

I just downloaded you TC4 setup you have on your site. My car didn't steer well going into a corner off power but then it would seem to get a little loose whne on power. Your setup you posted looks like a btter starting point for where I'm racing at.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

We try to stay off as we are kinda sick of the bashing of other people's product that goes on here. This is suppost to be here (the forum) for help and we'd like to be here to help. Get tiresome reading though all the crap to get to the 'cries for help'.

To do a step-by-step 'guide' would take some time. There are quite a few reasons why your car can be tweaked, not just a warped chassis or cracked tower. First thing you need to do is (and I quote this from Torrance himself) 'check for stink in the room'. By this I mean make sure your shocks are good, hingepins are not bent, arm mounts not cracked, screws are tight, anti-roll bars are straight, etc. EVERYTHING needs to be in good working order before you can even ATTEMPT to tweak the car. If something is off, it causes 'stink in the room'.

I will work on some sort of 'tweaking your car' thing when I have a chance. I understand the need for one, so it's on the list.

gaz8

thanks t phelan for the reply

lukless

Here's a link for using scales.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=60648

Hope it helps.