Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

Anyone thinking of getting spare shocks, there is the bottom seal cap missing from the shock sets 160124. if you are to buy some, then please add 160125 to your order so you can use your shocks.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Been running USGT 21.5 blinky using Serpent 92t spur with 47t pinion 64pitch and 25deg timing. Might have to ream out spur gear hole for motor screw access. Motor fan required. Wish Serpent would use a bottom motor mount slot for easier screw access ~ TC6.1

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

Finally this weekend i could have my firsts runs with the eryx, the first thoughts are really good. Track was dirty after two weeks of rain and snow, but the day was sunny and temps were around 10-12 C.
We run nonboost 10.5T with ratio 5.0 and everyone with same speedo and motor, Hobbywing justock 10.5T.

I started with the kit setup and I made some small changes, increase the wheelbase and I will need some thicker oil in the rear diff, maybe around 2k or 3k. Maybe when the temps go high i will need a thicker oil in the dumpers or maybe change from 4 to 3 holes in the pistons.

I noticed a lot of overall grip, car was really nice to drive and very quick. I also noticed that the car is quicker acelerating, the new diff helps a lot. I think that in the nationals with the nylon spool the eryx it's going to be the one to beat talking about accelerations.

cheers

Mitchy1986

iTrader: (1)

got 68 spur and 40 pinion and all you do for motor mounting is mesh gears, do the right hand screw up then remove pinion gear (only 2 screws) then do the other screw up in motor and then insert the pinion back in. it makes no difference in time... i did full lipo run and motor was only warm. so will start messing with timing and get motor fan.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

hi guys, anyone have problem with the shock leaking of s411 eryx?
i changed from the black o-ring that come with the kit to TE shock clear o-ring but it's still leaking.

any advise are very much appreciated.

amuse

iTrader: (7)

Hi guys. Wondering if You guys a able to provide me with some opinions.

Currently I have a Top Photon and quite happy with the car. But have the itch of getting a new car and obviously the 411v2 is being considered. The other I am considering is the xray t4.

I know opinions here will be bias but the things I like to know is if there are known issues I should be aware about if I did choose the 411. Does it actually run well in a carpet indoor track? Any parts that are slight more fragile so that I should have a few spares on hand just in case?

Also, any suggestions as to what upgrade options to pick up?

Sorry for the long post, since both chassis to me at this moment is on a rather equal ground.

Thanks guys

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I'm thinking you actually mean the S411 2.0 Eryx....give this a read as it covers pretty much everything I ran into on the build. http://www.serpent.com/news/13643/Se...by-Gary-!.html

After that I can tell you that I usually run a hard front bumper, but with the 2.0 car, I have been running it in the stock form, (no hard bumper) and the re-fined arms are very, very strong. The track configuration we run here right now, has one corner thats a high risk, high reward corner, and it will take a corner off the car in a flash. The stock 2.0 car has been easier to drive so I haven't hit the corner as much, but still have hit a few times, with sustaining no damage to speak of. Same corner on my hard arm S411, a c-hub and a steering block. My friend with his xray, with a hard bumper, hard arms, has taken a front corner, rear corner, and a c-hub on the same corner. Now you could say its just the luck of the corner, but the new car is still on the original parts.

If I where to get any upgrades, I would consider the DJS axles, although I'm not happy with any of them on the market, but at least the Serpent ones aren't crazy for pricing. I would also consider white springs. The rest is really not needed from the out of the box kit.

I only run on carpet and have several hours on the new car now, other than a spring change, playing with shock angle, and rc adjustments the car is very good on carpet.

I should have a setup to share after the weekend, as its another WCIC series race for myself.

Hope that helps, anything else please feel free to ask on here, we are lucky to have a pretty good group of racers on here.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I run the stock parts and have to admit I have a bit of leaking as well, although it hasn't impacted the shock performance, no squishy feel, no air, and when I check the level in the shock still seems okay, but the shock bottoms seem to be wet after a while. I take the shocks off and give them a cleaning just to keep it clean. I did re-polish the shafts and always use green slime on assembly, but the still get wet after a hard days run.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Kschu,

I tried some different o rings when I first built my car. They felt smoother initially but they leaked before I could run them. I went back to the stock black o rings and they built properly and feel good now. They felt slightly tight at first but they are good now. Because there is only one sealing o ring, I think they need it to be slight tight but it will get better, mine did.

Steve

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I'm in the same boat. Here's how I look at it:

S411:
+ No need to buy new springs
+ The floating servo mount looks pretty trick
+/- Chassis-mounted suspension: easy roll-center changes, but expensive and more difficult track width / rear toe changes
+ Really good support on this thread
+ A good local guy is running one
- I don't have good first-hand evidence of durability

T4:
+/- Bulkhead-ish-mounted suspension: cheap/easy track width / rear toe changes, but more PITA and less fine-grained roll center changes
+ Don't even need to buy spares up front, because Xrays are so tough.
- Need to shell out for all new tuning springs (added cost)
- Need to buy a carbon brace for the front bumper (added cost)
- Motor mount design is suspect
- Nobody in my club runs one yet (people are sticking with their T3'12s)
+ Good forum support and team driver setups.

Both cars are proven to be contenders at the highest levels of competition.

But I'm finally getting my Mi4CXL into the group of really fast locals (and goddamn do we have some fast people in the Northwest). A new car will mean starting from scratch with the tuning. And I'm also waiting to see the new Mi5. I like me some purple.

-Mike

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Mike,

Jeff Jenkins Jr and I are both running the car now. I have never broke a part yet on either of the 3 s411's that I have owned. The car is plenty durable. Switch cars whenever you feel is the right time or when you "need" to change cars, but this car should be in the consideration at least. Stop by my area at the.next event and you can see it in person.

Steve

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

I love this VS stuff


First TOP = Poo. LOL

You'll get solid advice from the regulars on here and it has helped me a lot this past year. Garys build tips is awesome. It came online about a week too late for my initial build

The new car is tough and needs minimal upgrades if any. What's in the kit will be good but there are a few wants we all have that the kit doesn't provide. The only upgrades I would suggest is the DCJ front drive especially if you have any bumpy on power sections to your track, a 1.2 rear sway bar and maybe the 2.5 block for the rear and the 1.5 split blocks when they come out for the front. Those last two depends how loose you like your car. The new kit does need springs but if your like me you have loads of springs like Ride, HPI or Xray. I do like the ride and serpent springs but this is on asphalt.

One thing i ran out of was 0.5mm shims so stock up on them if you don't. This car reacts to small changes unlike the xray which responds a bit like a wet rag

Sorry if my opinion is biased. I am not an xray fan.

Mi4CXL = Poo LOL.
Still running Spec R diffs? LOL spec r.

I hit plenty of stuff in battle, sometimes really hard. This last 12 months with the original S411 I've broken 2x hub/arm/knuckle combos and I've bent 1 hinge pin. I lost count of the parts i went thru on the CX i had. This new car has just as good a corner speed as the Schuie. The new car is much tougher.

You can always bling up a serpent with purple titanium screws and a D3.5

Team_Elli

Hi everyone, i was wondering about one thing, does the nylon spool hold up good this time around, or is it still very brittle like in the beginning when it came out? does it last a long time before it need's a change up?

Anders

DomenL

Whichc spring do you recomende for new ERYX for outdoor? I look for HPI spring but i think it is to long. Maybe i buy serpent green 3.5 and white 2.3 and use only this and original. Which spring use Fischer in last ETS?

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

The spool will work in the higher turn motors like 17.5 and up, but will still eventually ream itself out, so it will require continued checks and eventually replacement. Under a hard crash ther is good chance that they will break from the extreme angle of the axle into the spool output. I don't see a great improvement of running the nylon over the stock part, although I have more confidence in the stock piece thru a race.

The stock supplied springs are good, I would also consider getting a pair of whites. This car has a more characteristic of requireing a spring split compared to the older car that liked similar springs front and rear. Remember also that the Serpent shocks still use the same springs as before, so shorter springs are not required. I think Fischer used hpi or ride springs on his setup.