Serpent S411
#3781
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
Trivial question.
Do u guys use the carbon fiber battery mount? And how do u strap the battery down on this car? I see the instructions in the kit has Velcro straps with the std battery mounts, but it looks like it will slide out. With the carbon fiber battery mount, how do u keep it mounted?
Thx
Do u guys use the carbon fiber battery mount? And how do u strap the battery down on this car? I see the instructions in the kit has Velcro straps with the std battery mounts, but it looks like it will slide out. With the carbon fiber battery mount, how do u keep it mounted?
Thx
#3782
Tech Adept
Strapping tape, cheap and reliable.
#3783
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
Trivial question.
Do u guys use the carbon fiber battery mount? And how do u strap the battery down on this car? I see the instructions in the kit has Velcro straps with the std battery mounts, but it looks like it will slide out. With the carbon fiber battery mount, how do u keep it mounted?
Thx
Do u guys use the carbon fiber battery mount? And how do u strap the battery down on this car? I see the instructions in the kit has Velcro straps with the std battery mounts, but it looks like it will slide out. With the carbon fiber battery mount, how do u keep it mounted?
Thx
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...products_id=49
This is as good as the Hudy tape at a third of the price. Just change it out every race day
#3784
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Trivial question.
Do u guys use the carbon fiber battery mount? And how do u strap the battery down on this car? I see the instructions in the kit has Velcro straps with the std battery mounts, but it looks like it will slide out. With the carbon fiber battery mount, how do u keep it mounted?
Thx
Do u guys use the carbon fiber battery mount? And how do u strap the battery down on this car? I see the instructions in the kit has Velcro straps with the std battery mounts, but it looks like it will slide out. With the carbon fiber battery mount, how do u keep it mounted?
Thx
#3786
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
I'm running a 47t pinion. It seems that I have to take the spur gear off just to get the motor screw on. And it seems that I need to take to spur off just to tighten the motor screw. I'm running 96t spur. The motor screw does not seem to align with the hole in the spur.
To add to my questions. I am using the airtronics mt4 with spectrum low profile servo. It seems that to get close to full steering, i need to set my EPA to 150 (max of the controller). Is this right? and my servo is like 0.08 secs. It doesn't seem that fast. I am thinking because it has to go full throw (almost 180 from left to right).
Am i doing anything wrong?
To add to my questions. I am using the airtronics mt4 with spectrum low profile servo. It seems that to get close to full steering, i need to set my EPA to 150 (max of the controller). Is this right? and my servo is like 0.08 secs. It doesn't seem that fast. I am thinking because it has to go full throw (almost 180 from left to right).
Am i doing anything wrong?
Last edited by teeforb; 06-24-2012 at 01:51 PM.
#3787
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
I'm running a 47t pinion. It seems that I have to take the spur gear off just to get the motor screw on. And it seems that I need to take to spur off just to tighten the motor screw. I'm running 96t spur. The motor screw does not seem to align with the hole in the spur.
To add to my questions. I am using the airtronics mt4 with spectrum low profile servo. It seems that to get close to full steering, i need to set my EPA to 150 (max of the controller). Is this right? and my servo is like 0.08 secs. It doesn't seem that fast. I am thinking because it has to go full throw (almost 180 from left to right).
Am i doing anything wrong?
To add to my questions. I am using the airtronics mt4 with spectrum low profile servo. It seems that to get close to full steering, i need to set my EPA to 150 (max of the controller). Is this right? and my servo is like 0.08 secs. It doesn't seem that fast. I am thinking because it has to go full throw (almost 180 from left to right).
Am i doing anything wrong?
Be careful what you determine as "full lock". I add EPA until the tires are about 1-2mm from the lower shock mount..... If you add EPA based off the knuckle touching the caster block you may add too much and rub the shocks.
I don't know about those electronics, but with my DX3R and KO servo I get maximum steering with the left/right EPA's at around 120, and my overall steering rate turned down to 85%...... i could dial a lot more in but it would rub.
#3788
I'm running a 47t pinion. It seems that I have to take the spur gear off just to get the motor screw on. And it seems that I need to take to spur off just to tighten the motor screw. I'm running 96t spur. The motor screw does not seem to align with the hole in the spur.
To add to my questions. I am using the airtronics mt4 with spectrum low profile servo. It seems that to get close to full steering, i need to set my EPA to 150 (max of the controller). Is this right? and my servo is like 0.08 secs. It doesn't seem that fast. I am thinking because it has to go full throw (almost 180 from left to right).
Am i doing anything wrong?
To add to my questions. I am using the airtronics mt4 with spectrum low profile servo. It seems that to get close to full steering, i need to set my EPA to 150 (max of the controller). Is this right? and my servo is like 0.08 secs. It doesn't seem that fast. I am thinking because it has to go full throw (almost 180 from left to right).
Am i doing anything wrong?
#3789
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
What brand spur are you using? Not all will line up properly. I will check what I am running tomorrow..... I use 94 and 96 with pinions up to 50 and can always reach the screws.
Be careful what you determine as "full lock". I add EPA until the tires are about 1-2mm from the lower shock mount..... If you add EPA based off the knuckle touching the caster block you may add too much and rub the shocks.
I don't know about those electronics, but with my DX3R and KO servo I get maximum steering with the left/right EPA's at around 120, and my overall steering rate turned down to 85%...... i could dial a lot more in but it would rub.
Be careful what you determine as "full lock". I add EPA until the tires are about 1-2mm from the lower shock mount..... If you add EPA based off the knuckle touching the caster block you may add too much and rub the shocks.
I don't know about those electronics, but with my DX3R and KO servo I get maximum steering with the left/right EPA's at around 120, and my overall steering rate turned down to 85%...... i could dial a lot more in but it would rub.
#3790
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
Trivial question.
Do u guys use the carbon fiber battery mount? And how do u strap the battery down on this car? I see the instructions in the kit has Velcro straps with the std battery mounts, but it looks like it will slide out. With the carbon fiber battery mount, how do u keep it mounted?
Thx
Do u guys use the carbon fiber battery mount? And how do u strap the battery down on this car? I see the instructions in the kit has Velcro straps with the std battery mounts, but it looks like it will slide out. With the carbon fiber battery mount, how do u keep it mounted?
Thx
It depends what brand spur gear you are using. I have Xray, RW, Core RC and Serpent. All seem to work, but I also cheated and bought a ball-end 2mm wrench specifically for that motor screw. I see too many DNF's from stripped spurs, that I am over cautious on my gear mesh and anything I can do to make it easier. I am running a 92t spur currently without any problems with a 50t pinion.
#3791
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I'm running a 47t pinion. It seems that I have to take the spur gear off just to get the motor screw on. And it seems that I need to take to spur off just to tighten the motor screw. I'm running 96t spur. The motor screw does not seem to align with the hole in the spur.
To add to my questions. I am using the airtronics mt4 with spectrum low profile servo. It seems that to get close to full steering, i need to set my EPA to 150 (max of the controller). Is this right? and my servo is like 0.08 secs. It doesn't seem that fast. I am thinking because it has to go full throw (almost 180 from left to right).
Am i doing anything wrong?
To add to my questions. I am using the airtronics mt4 with spectrum low profile servo. It seems that to get close to full steering, i need to set my EPA to 150 (max of the controller). Is this right? and my servo is like 0.08 secs. It doesn't seem that fast. I am thinking because it has to go full throw (almost 180 from left to right).
Am i doing anything wrong?
#3792
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
You have a Serpent 96T spur gear fitted on your S411. Install the front motor screw into the slot from in front of the gear then use a ball drive to thighten it through the access holes in the spur gear (leave the front motor screw in place when changing motors). That's how I did it... FYI, in 17.5 blinky I ran 96/48 had good rip.
#3793
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
So my 411 is all built and ready for Sunday now, and I have to say so far that my over-riding impression is very good. Build went together very well, only had a few small issues.
I did take the opportunity to add some of the choice parts (hard wishbones, DCJ's, one piece motor mount) whilst building, as in most of the setups I've seen these are run.
So thoughts from the build.
Everything seems to drop together nicely, although the manual could do with some more detail in places (e.g. Where's the internal ratio?). Have to say that using grease on the turnbuckles turned out to be a must, as the plastic seems hard to thread. Thankfully still have my tamiya turnbuckle tool that the serpent ball joints fitted in nicely, making the turnbuckles easier to build.
Some of the anodising on my car seemed a bit different on the motor mount compared to the axle bulkheads, but no biggie.
I do like that the suspension brackets have a decent amount of meat to them, having had tamiyas before that would regularly bend with looking at them...
Diff.. With the v2, dropped together fine. Still not sure what to build it with just the two gears, so I do have a spare diff that I've built with four gears, to try out (before filling it with 500k for the front to test later still!).
One area that I was aware of when building was the steering, seems that the level of slop has caused some issues with other drivers. Well, I have to say that with my car, built as kit, and whilst there is a bit of play, it certainly nothing to be concerened with, and is less than on my previous Tamiya's! Actually, whilst setting the car up, I was impressed with the accuracy of the steering, made it very easy to get it straight and with same throw side to side.
Now it wasnt all positive... my worst part of the build was the shocks. I seriously struggled to get them all to build the same (even to get two too match!) in terms of rebound. I ended up switching out the bladders for some black tamiya ones, as the clear ones seemed to be a bit variable, some collapsing sooner than others, and affecting the damping rate. Even with the different bladders, still struggled to get them to match up, and I think that this is coming from the double o-rings in the bottom. Hopefully these will break in a bit after the first run, but if I still struggle... Well, that's in the future, want to give them a chance first. If anyone's got any tips or special code for building them though, happy to listen!
As I mentioned before, Ive already put the car on the gauges, and again was impressed with the fact that it all trimmed up pretty much straight and tweak free from the get go... Too easy!
Anyway, first run will hopefully be this Sunday, in modified, if the weather clears up! Looking forward to getting it on the track and contributing to this thread when I get a chance!
Regards
Ed
I did take the opportunity to add some of the choice parts (hard wishbones, DCJ's, one piece motor mount) whilst building, as in most of the setups I've seen these are run.
So thoughts from the build.
Everything seems to drop together nicely, although the manual could do with some more detail in places (e.g. Where's the internal ratio?). Have to say that using grease on the turnbuckles turned out to be a must, as the plastic seems hard to thread. Thankfully still have my tamiya turnbuckle tool that the serpent ball joints fitted in nicely, making the turnbuckles easier to build.
Some of the anodising on my car seemed a bit different on the motor mount compared to the axle bulkheads, but no biggie.
I do like that the suspension brackets have a decent amount of meat to them, having had tamiyas before that would regularly bend with looking at them...
Diff.. With the v2, dropped together fine. Still not sure what to build it with just the two gears, so I do have a spare diff that I've built with four gears, to try out (before filling it with 500k for the front to test later still!).
One area that I was aware of when building was the steering, seems that the level of slop has caused some issues with other drivers. Well, I have to say that with my car, built as kit, and whilst there is a bit of play, it certainly nothing to be concerened with, and is less than on my previous Tamiya's! Actually, whilst setting the car up, I was impressed with the accuracy of the steering, made it very easy to get it straight and with same throw side to side.
Now it wasnt all positive... my worst part of the build was the shocks. I seriously struggled to get them all to build the same (even to get two too match!) in terms of rebound. I ended up switching out the bladders for some black tamiya ones, as the clear ones seemed to be a bit variable, some collapsing sooner than others, and affecting the damping rate. Even with the different bladders, still struggled to get them to match up, and I think that this is coming from the double o-rings in the bottom. Hopefully these will break in a bit after the first run, but if I still struggle... Well, that's in the future, want to give them a chance first. If anyone's got any tips or special code for building them though, happy to listen!
As I mentioned before, Ive already put the car on the gauges, and again was impressed with the fact that it all trimmed up pretty much straight and tweak free from the get go... Too easy!
Anyway, first run will hopefully be this Sunday, in modified, if the weather clears up! Looking forward to getting it on the track and contributing to this thread when I get a chance!
Regards
Ed
#3794
Welcome to the Serpent gang Ed, definately let us know how your maiden run goes.
I finally got all my shocks built and installed, so I should have some feed back here in the next day or so.........also trying a couple of other things out that are out of the window so to speak......i'll keep you posted.
I finally got all my shocks built and installed, so I should have some feed back here in the next day or so.........also trying a couple of other things out that are out of the window so to speak......i'll keep you posted.