R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-05-2011, 11:33 AM   #136
Tech Elite
 
mxrich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: N. GA.
Posts: 4,426
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

He has his ducks in a row for this car. And I stll don't know how he keeps his table so clean. I keep a snow shovel on standby before raceday.
__________________
I park faster than most people drive.
mxrich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2011, 11:39 AM   #137
Tech Champion
 
MantisWorx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,918
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

Well i just drove it around the street, kinda hard to really tell anything but it drives! bad news is somehow between taking my RS out of my buggy and installing it in my F1 it doesnt work anymore, thats the second damn RS in a mth that has gone bad, i have had it with Tekin.
With the 17.5 /2s and 3.25 ratio it is not near fast enough so im going to try 3s tomorrow and see how that goes, if i dont like it i will go to a hotter motor/2s. it has a cool sound to it though and seems to have plenty of steering ( on a dirty street), i think it will be a keeper!
MantisWorx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2011, 12:01 PM   #138
Tech Champion
 
snoopyrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tunnel Hill GA
Posts: 5,046
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I don't mean to be antagonistic to you, and I like the cut of the chassis and all of your work, but would I not be on par with you if I take an old F201 and take out the front drivetrain?
__________________
www.battlefieldraceway.com Racing videos at http://www.youtube.com/snoopyrc
snoopyrc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2011, 12:15 PM   #139
Tech Champion
 
MantisWorx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,918
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
I don't mean to be antagonistic to you, and I like the cut of the chassis and all of your work, but would I not be on par with you if I take an old F201 and take out the front drivetrain?
battery placement, motor placement , cant use the current f1 style because of the wheelbase/width and why chop up a f201 when i can easily make something better myself? if you take the shaft out of 201 it pushes like a plow, you cant make it turn. and besides where is the fun in that? not to mention there are no good tire choices for that format. if you take the front drivetrain out, the answer to your question is NO, you wont be anywhere near me!!
MantisWorx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 09:38 AM   #140
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 84
Default Silver Can

Have you tried running this chassis with a silver can? If so, how does it run? And a little silly question.......what do you call it?
jujubean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 11:24 AM   #141
Tech Champion
 
MantisWorx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,918
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jujubean View Post
Have you tried running this chassis with a silver can? If so, how does it run? And a little silly question.......what do you call it?

no, im not a believer in the silver can! to me that like putting a bug engine in a top fuel dragster! im a realist and i like speed not only that but the gear ratio is fixed 3.25 and i dont think that is optimal for the silver can. i may try a 21.5 but only with boost and 3s. this is not a production chassis, i have no intention on making them to sale but of course money can always change that! once i get this one figured out i am going to make another one with better material mainly carbon. right now it is 60g heavier than my 104 that has a normal battery. on the street it drives really good much different than my 104.
MantisWorx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 01:58 PM   #142
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,542
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Well i just drove it around the street, kinda hard to really tell anything but it drives! bad news is somehow between taking my RS out of my buggy and installing it in my F1 it doesnt work anymore, thats the second damn RS in a mth that has gone bad, i have had it with Tekin.
With the 17.5 /2s and 3.25 ratio it is not near fast enough so im going to try 3s tomorrow and see how that goes, if i dont like it i will go to a hotter motor/2s. it has a cool sound to it though and seems to have plenty of steering ( on a dirty street), i think it will be a keeper!
I tend to agree with your analogy of the Silvercan.

But with this solder job it looks more like user error than an issue with the Tekin product ?
Motor (+) and (A) wires are a little too close for comfort.
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 02:02 PM   #143
Tech Champion
 
MantisWorx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,918
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I tend to agree with your analogy of the Silvercan.

But with this solder job it looks more like user error than an issue with the Tekin product ?
Motor (+) and (A) wires are a little too close for comfort.

they dont touch and solder does not move once its on, the picture is fuzzy so it looks closer than what it is. the speed controller comes on just not getting a motor tone. been at this awhile, not my first rodeo! if those two wires would have touched it would have smoked as soon as i squeezed the trigger, not the problem i was having. last race in my buggy it cut out a couple of times and last night upon inspection i noticed that the capacitor was broke, so maybe that caused the issue i dont know.
MantisWorx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 02:14 PM   #144
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Try your sensor wiring and the cable from esc to reciever.
Had a problem like this also and it was the cable from the esc to reciever.

regards Roy



Quote:
Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
they dont touch and solder does not move once its on, the picture is fuzzy so it looks closer than what it is. the speed controller comes on just not getting a motor tone. been at this awhile, not my first rodeo! if those two wires would have touched it would have smoked as soon as i squeezed the trigger, not the problem i was having. last race in my buggy it cut out a couple of times and last night upon inspection i noticed that the capacitor was broke, so maybe that caused the issue i dont know.
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 04:27 PM   #145
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,542
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
they dont touch and solder does not move once its on, the picture is fuzzy so it looks closer than what it is. the speed controller comes on just not getting a motor tone. been at this awhile, not my first rodeo! if those two wires would have touched it would have smoked as soon as i squeezed the trigger, not the problem i was having. last race in my buggy it cut out a couple of times and last night upon inspection i noticed that the capacitor was broke, so maybe that caused the issue i dont know.
Capacitor sounds like the issue.

First "Rodeo" or not, those solder joints are funky

Good luck with it, hope you get it sorted out.
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 05:16 PM   #146
Tech Champion
 
MantisWorx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,918
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Try your sensor wiring and the cable from esc to reciever.
Had a problem like this also and it was the cable from the esc to reciever.

regards Roy

hmmmmm i will try that, never checked that cable ,its strange that it worked and nothing changed. im having a brain fart but when you hook up the hotwire you shouldnt have to turn on the ESC right? i was trying to program it before i installed it and i had to turn the switch on for it to connect? i changed the sensor wire out and nothing changed.
MantisWorx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 05:23 PM   #147
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,776
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

You do not need power to update the esc. The USB supplies the power. I update them straight out of the package with the rubber band and all frequently.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 05:27 PM   #148
Tech Champion
 
MantisWorx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,918
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

thats what i thought(i have four different programmable ESC's i have been messing with!), well thats definately strange then, so that means that the power wire from the three wire cable must be bad or have a short in it and that would explain the random shut downs last week! im going to go check it now and see if i can find it! i sure need this RS to work, no time to send it back and have it fixed for the race. right now i have a hobbywing in it, andnon sensored is not good for off road
MantisWorx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 05:30 PM   #149
Tech Champion
 
MantisWorx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,918
Trader Rating: 28 (97%+)
Default

FYI we are having a pre race practice next weekend at Mikes for the locals. im hoping to get some video for you guys!
MantisWorx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2011, 05:33 PM   #150
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,776
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

If its just the receiver wire, I can fix it for you when I come. You may not be able to wait that long though. I got some mad PCB soldering skillz. Inside the case the switch and receiver wires are doubled over and I have had them break at the board. It is much more likely that the wires are shorted at the receiver plug. The factory RS receiver plug is a little wimpy., I always just snip it and replace it right away when I do fresh installs because I am usually shortening the wire anyway.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:52 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net