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USRCF1 Formula One national event!

USRCF1 Formula One national event!

Old 04-05-2011, 11:33 AM
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He has his ducks in a row for this car. And I stll don't know how he keeps his table so clean. I keep a snow shovel on standby before raceday.
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:39 AM
  #137  
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Well i just drove it around the street, kinda hard to really tell anything but it drives! bad news is somehow between taking my RS out of my buggy and installing it in my F1 it doesnt work anymore, thats the second damn RS in a mth that has gone bad, i have had it with Tekin.
With the 17.5 /2s and 3.25 ratio it is not near fast enough so im going to try 3s tomorrow and see how that goes, if i dont like it i will go to a hotter motor/2s. it has a cool sound to it though and seems to have plenty of steering ( on a dirty street), i think it will be a keeper!
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:01 PM
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I don't mean to be antagonistic to you, and I like the cut of the chassis and all of your work, but would I not be on par with you if I take an old F201 and take out the front drivetrain?
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
I don't mean to be antagonistic to you, and I like the cut of the chassis and all of your work, but would I not be on par with you if I take an old F201 and take out the front drivetrain?
battery placement, motor placement , cant use the current f1 style because of the wheelbase/width and why chop up a f201 when i can easily make something better myself? if you take the shaft out of 201 it pushes like a plow, you cant make it turn. and besides where is the fun in that? not to mention there are no good tire choices for that format. if you take the front drivetrain out, the answer to your question is NO, you wont be anywhere near me!!
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:38 AM
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Have you tried running this chassis with a silver can? If so, how does it run? And a little silly question.......what do you call it?
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:24 AM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by jujubean View Post
Have you tried running this chassis with a silver can? If so, how does it run? And a little silly question.......what do you call it?

no, im not a believer in the silver can! to me that like putting a bug engine in a top fuel dragster! im a realist and i like speed not only that but the gear ratio is fixed 3.25 and i dont think that is optimal for the silver can. i may try a 21.5 but only with boost and 3s. this is not a production chassis, i have no intention on making them to sale but of course money can always change that! once i get this one figured out i am going to make another one with better material mainly carbon. right now it is 60g heavier than my 104 that has a normal battery. on the street it drives really good much different than my 104.
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Well i just drove it around the street, kinda hard to really tell anything but it drives! bad news is somehow between taking my RS out of my buggy and installing it in my F1 it doesnt work anymore, thats the second damn RS in a mth that has gone bad, i have had it with Tekin.
With the 17.5 /2s and 3.25 ratio it is not near fast enough so im going to try 3s tomorrow and see how that goes, if i dont like it i will go to a hotter motor/2s. it has a cool sound to it though and seems to have plenty of steering ( on a dirty street), i think it will be a keeper!
I tend to agree with your analogy of the Silvercan.

But with this solder job it looks more like user error than an issue with the Tekin product ?
Motor (+) and (A) wires are a little too close for comfort.
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Old 04-06-2011, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I tend to agree with your analogy of the Silvercan.

But with this solder job it looks more like user error than an issue with the Tekin product ?
Motor (+) and (A) wires are a little too close for comfort.

they dont touch and solder does not move once its on, the picture is fuzzy so it looks closer than what it is. the speed controller comes on just not getting a motor tone. been at this awhile, not my first rodeo! if those two wires would have touched it would have smoked as soon as i squeezed the trigger, not the problem i was having. last race in my buggy it cut out a couple of times and last night upon inspection i noticed that the capacitor was broke, so maybe that caused the issue i dont know.
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Old 04-06-2011, 02:14 PM
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Try your sensor wiring and the cable from esc to reciever.
Had a problem like this also and it was the cable from the esc to reciever.

regards Roy



Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
they dont touch and solder does not move once its on, the picture is fuzzy so it looks closer than what it is. the speed controller comes on just not getting a motor tone. been at this awhile, not my first rodeo! if those two wires would have touched it would have smoked as soon as i squeezed the trigger, not the problem i was having. last race in my buggy it cut out a couple of times and last night upon inspection i noticed that the capacitor was broke, so maybe that caused the issue i dont know.
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Old 04-06-2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
they dont touch and solder does not move once its on, the picture is fuzzy so it looks closer than what it is. the speed controller comes on just not getting a motor tone. been at this awhile, not my first rodeo! if those two wires would have touched it would have smoked as soon as i squeezed the trigger, not the problem i was having. last race in my buggy it cut out a couple of times and last night upon inspection i noticed that the capacitor was broke, so maybe that caused the issue i dont know.
Capacitor sounds like the issue.

First "Rodeo" or not, those solder joints are funky

Good luck with it, hope you get it sorted out.
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Try your sensor wiring and the cable from esc to reciever.
Had a problem like this also and it was the cable from the esc to reciever.

regards Roy

hmmmmm i will try that, never checked that cable ,its strange that it worked and nothing changed. im having a brain fart but when you hook up the hotwire you shouldnt have to turn on the ESC right? i was trying to program it before i installed it and i had to turn the switch on for it to connect? i changed the sensor wire out and nothing changed.
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:23 PM
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You do not need power to update the esc. The USB supplies the power. I update them straight out of the package with the rubber band and all frequently.
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:27 PM
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thats what i thought(i have four different programmable ESC's i have been messing with!), well thats definately strange then, so that means that the power wire from the three wire cable must be bad or have a short in it and that would explain the random shut downs last week! im going to go check it now and see if i can find it! i sure need this RS to work, no time to send it back and have it fixed for the race. right now i have a hobbywing in it, andnon sensored is not good for off road
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:30 PM
  #149  
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FYI we are having a pre race practice next weekend at Mikes for the locals. im hoping to get some video for you guys!
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:33 PM
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If its just the receiver wire, I can fix it for you when I come. You may not be able to wait that long though. I got some mad PCB soldering skillz. Inside the case the switch and receiver wires are doubled over and I have had them break at the board. It is much more likely that the wires are shorted at the receiver plug. The factory RS receiver plug is a little wimpy., I always just snip it and replace it right away when I do fresh installs because I am usually shortening the wire anyway.
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