Skiddins

Anyone got settings for a TP motor on an LRP Flow in boosted stock?

Skiddins

andrease

hi, Sunday I have a race touring, with 13.5 blinky FIXED fdr = 4.5.
I need some advice on a starting point, better rotor and the maximum timing usable.
The track is outdoor, quite smooth with about 30 meters straight
Usuali i use green rotor, fdr 3,9-4,1 and 30-35 timing but this time I do not know how to get started.
Thanks

magnushedqvist

I know this is an onroad forum but it's still about the TP motors. I have a 6.5t in my 4wd buggy. Does anyone else feel they get very hot? I use it together with at tekin rs pro esc and if I gear it the same as I used to do with my old losi 6.5t it gets way too hot and the esc shuts down and he motor goes up to about 80 deg C on rather cool day (20 deg C) after a 5 minutes race. I tried to gear lower and that solved the heatissue but it made the car soo slow.

Any thoughts? It might work better in a touringcar with more cooling and a bit of boost.

Skiddins

As the motor has a removable stator I figure that the heat can never properly be transmitted through to the outside of the can.
I have taken to using computer heatsink compound (thermal paste) on the stator before fitting it into the can, it's messy but does help get the heat out.

Friends at the track I run at finally started taking my advice to do it and have dropped motor temps by 15-20deg C.

Skiddins

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Wow 15-20C!!!
That's a big difference, and probably can gear through the roof to make it super fast for stock racing. Usually I gear 96/52 for outdoors with no more than 40 timing, it's 3.5 and after 5min it'll be about 155-160F and of any hotter ill just turn timing down to 35 and it'll be fine, but its fast!! With that computer stuff I can get it even faster.

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

20 degrees Celsius is 68 degrees Fahrenheit

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

We tried this last summer and didn't find anywhere near that difference, maybe we're running better fans

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

S.P.R fans

Skiddins

The idea is to get it near the limit, then use the compund to bring it back to sensible levels, not keep gearing up until you're back where you started, or you run the risk of melting it all.

We also had a heatsink and fan combo to get rid of the heat, which might explain why his dropped so much.

Skiddins

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Usually I'll gear it as much as I can till its at the temp limit then plug in the fan and it would be 10F cooler but wasn't getting the full potential. Now I just gear till its at 160-170 and stop

Nathan Wilson

what is the max temp this motor should be run to 13.5

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

The only difference I found is that there was a bigger mess to clean up when cleaning your motors...

My findings with the thermal paste experiment: 10 degree F drop at best... maintaining corner speed is the best way to maintain decent motor temps.

Skiddins

Ha, you either didn't do it right, or used paste with such low thermal conductivity that it was crap.

I've seen 10-15degC myself.
The hottest my boosted TP 13.5 has been since running the paste and fan/heatsink is 60degC (140degF), more typically 50degC at club meetings, that's with motor timing at 34deg.

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

I'm thinking the differences we're seeing might be related to the difference between boosted and blinky racing. However, I'm open to exploring the possibility my chosen thermal paste wasn't doing its job. Which thermal paste do you prefer?

Skiddins

If you look at the details of the paste you're using it gives a thermal rating;

0.7W/mk
1.2W/mk

Get the highest number you can find.
The stuff I use is silicone based and rated at 3.0W/mk, but it is pretty expensive... good job I get it from work

The best conductivity I've seen is 10.0W/mk, but that is graphite based and I don't like the idea of putting that inside our motors as the electrical currents are very high and that paste has a lower resistance.

Skiddins