Team Corally RDX Touring Car
12-25-2005, 08:50 AM
#4831
I set my ride height first. Then I lift the end of the car I'm setting until the tires come off of the table. Measure again and adjust droop screws until the tire comes off of the table at the desired droop. Everytime you adjust ride height, you have to adjust droop. If not, your droop will decrease as you maintain ride height with tires that are wearing down.
Merry CHRISTmas to all!!
Merry CHRISTmas to all!!
12-25-2005, 09:13 AM
#4832
Originally Posted by Customworksking
I use the David Jun Method fond on TamiyaUSA.com its the most precise way
I found [(Td/2) + 2)- Ha] - Rh = Droop
I found [(Td/2) + 2)- Ha] - Rh = Droop
Thanks.
Jun post
12-25-2005, 11:51 AM
#4834
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
I use the David Jun Method fond on TamiyaUSA.com its the most precise way
I found [(Td/2) + 2)- Ha] - Rh = Droop
I found [(Td/2) + 2)- Ha] - Rh = Droop
rh = ride hieght
ha = ????
12-25-2005, 11:56 AM
#4835
Originally Posted by Customworksking
got to Tamiya trf415 thred do a search under david jun and it will be in post#11224 
12-25-2005, 01:05 PM
#4836
Originally Posted by morris
droop again,
yea this is going to be fun to learn
so if i am using say starting out at a 57mm foam tire.i have my shock collars pre-loaded the same amount of turns out.whats is my next thing to do.do i back droop screws all the way out,then set the ride height,then bring the droop screws back down to the tires just hit the board.and as jeff was saying.i got the car with like 12 sets of foams all trued down to 57.as i loose tire from where i increase droop?
thx for the info guys.
you can also e-mail me at
[email protected]
yea this is going to be fun to learn
so if i am using say starting out at a 57mm foam tire.i have my shock collars pre-loaded the same amount of turns out.whats is my next thing to do.do i back droop screws all the way out,then set the ride height,then bring the droop screws back down to the tires just hit the board.and as jeff was saying.i got the car with like 12 sets of foams all trued down to 57.as i loose tire from where i increase droop?
thx for the info guys.
you can also e-mail me at
[email protected]
DROOP= HOW FAR THE CHASSIS LIFTS FROM NEUTRAL BEFORE THE TIRES COME OFF THE GROUND.
1. Back out droop screws.
2. Back out spring retainers all the way, and make sure marks line up. (the sharpie marks on the collar and shock body/cap to count the turns in to make sure spring pre-load is the same)
3. Evenly thread each of the front shocks, then the rear shocks to get proper ride height. (Use the sharpie marks to count the amount of turns, they must be even on each rear shock, and each front shock, not necessarily the same front to rear.)
4. Set the Droop by screwing in set screw in suspension arm. Lets say the car is set at 4mm all the way around. If you want 1.5mm of droop in the rear, set the ride height gague under the rear of the chassis at 5.5 mil and leave it there. (5.5mm - 4.0mm = 1.5mm droop.) Since the droop screws were backed out to set ride height, the tires will be setting on the setup board. Screw in each droop screw until the tire JUST comes off the board, then back it off just a touch so the tire is just resting on the board. Use the same method on the front. I usually run for a baseline setup with approx 57.5mm tires, 1mm droop in the front, and 1.5mm in the back.
What some guys have done here is had a machinist make some blocks in .5 mil increments. So they have 4-7mm blocks with every half mm in there too, works like a charm.
I like using this method because you know that everything is straight up. Sometimes trying to get ride height can cause problems because the droop screws are restriciting the arm, so you end up with some funky preloads and a jacked up setup. This method, if done properly will prevent that problem. Like I said in a previous post, I like to go back once everything is set and check the droop with my AE gauge. If the tires are lifting up off the board evenly when you pick up the chassis, but the droop readings on the gauge are not even, you know there is a tweak somewhere in the chassis, or the tires are just different sizes.
As for when tire size goes down, adding droop.... Think about it this way. If you set your droop at 1mm in the front, and 1.5mm in the rear, with 58mm tires, then you go run your car 6 times and the tires wear down to 57mm, since there was 1mm of wear, that means you lost 1mm of droop all the way around. So your ride height is 1mm lower, and you have no droop in the front, and .5mm of droop in the rear. This is why you have to stay on top of it. If you set your droop strictly by the gauge, you will have to have some kind of formula for setting droop according to tire size. If you set PHYSICAL DROOP, by using the above method, you just have to make sure you stay on top of it. As the tires go down you will have to progressively back out droop screws to keep up with it.
MAKE SURE THERE IS A BATTERY AND MOTOR IN YOUR CAR!!!! If not the settings will not be right.
Sorry, I know its complicated to explain by typing,
but every time I've shown someone in person, they are like OOHHHHH!!! I get it!! 
Hope it makes sense.
Brett Bowen
12-25-2005, 02:19 PM
#4837
jun D
Originally Posted by raffaelli
td = tire diameter
rh = ride hieght
ha = ????
rh = ride hieght
ha = ????
12-25-2005, 02:36 PM
#4838
Originally Posted by QuickyTC3
I back the droop screws out first, before I set the ride height... So here is the process...
DROOP= HOW FAR THE CHASSIS LIFTS FROM NEUTRAL BEFORE THE TIRES COME OFF THE GROUND.
1. Back out droop screws.
2. Back out spring retainers all the way, and make sure marks line up. (the sharpie marks on the collar and shock body/cap to count the turns in to make sure spring pre-load is the same)
3. Evenly thread each of the front shocks, then the rear shocks to get proper ride height. (Use the sharpie marks to count the amount of turns, they must be even on each rear shock, and each front shock, not necessarily the same front to rear.)
4. Set the Droop by screwing in set screw in suspension arm. Lets say the car is set at 4mm all the way around. If you want 1.5mm of droop in the rear, set the ride height gague under the rear of the chassis at 5.5 mil and leave it there. (5.5mm - 4.0mm = 1.5mm droop.) Since the droop screws were backed out to set ride height, the tires will be setting on the setup board. Screw in each droop screw until the tire JUST comes off the board, then back it off just a touch so the tire is just resting on the board. Use the same method on the front. I usually run for a baseline setup with approx 57.5mm tires, 1mm droop in the front, and 1.5mm in the back.
What some guys have done here is had a machinist make some blocks in .5 mil increments. So they have 4-7mm blocks with every half mm in there too, works like a charm.
I like using this method because you know that everything is straight up. Sometimes trying to get ride height can cause problems because the droop screws are restriciting the arm, so you end up with some funky preloads and a jacked up setup. This method, if done properly will prevent that problem. Like I said in a previous post, I like to go back once everything is set and check the droop with my AE gauge. If the tires are lifting up off the board evenly when you pick up the chassis, but the droop readings on the gauge are not even, you know there is a tweak somewhere in the chassis, or the tires are just different sizes.
As for when tire size goes down, adding droop.... Think about it this way. If you set your droop at 1mm in the front, and 1.5mm in the rear, with 58mm tires, then you go run your car 6 times and the tires wear down to 57mm, since there was 1mm of wear, that means you lost 1mm of droop all the way around. So your ride height is 1mm lower, and you have no droop in the front, and .5mm of droop in the rear. This is why you have to stay on top of it. If you set your droop strictly by the gauge, you will have to have some kind of formula for setting droop according to tire size. If you set PHYSICAL DROOP, by using the above method, you just have to make sure you stay on top of it. As the tires go down you will have to progressively back out droop screws to keep up with it.
MAKE SURE THERE IS A BATTERY AND MOTOR IN YOUR CAR!!!! If not the settings will not be right.
Sorry, I know its complicated to explain by typing, but every time I've shown someone in person, they are like OOHHHHH!!! I get it!!
Hope it makes sense.
Brett Bowen
DROOP= HOW FAR THE CHASSIS LIFTS FROM NEUTRAL BEFORE THE TIRES COME OFF THE GROUND.
1. Back out droop screws.
2. Back out spring retainers all the way, and make sure marks line up. (the sharpie marks on the collar and shock body/cap to count the turns in to make sure spring pre-load is the same)
3. Evenly thread each of the front shocks, then the rear shocks to get proper ride height. (Use the sharpie marks to count the amount of turns, they must be even on each rear shock, and each front shock, not necessarily the same front to rear.)
4. Set the Droop by screwing in set screw in suspension arm. Lets say the car is set at 4mm all the way around. If you want 1.5mm of droop in the rear, set the ride height gague under the rear of the chassis at 5.5 mil and leave it there. (5.5mm - 4.0mm = 1.5mm droop.) Since the droop screws were backed out to set ride height, the tires will be setting on the setup board. Screw in each droop screw until the tire JUST comes off the board, then back it off just a touch so the tire is just resting on the board. Use the same method on the front. I usually run for a baseline setup with approx 57.5mm tires, 1mm droop in the front, and 1.5mm in the back.
What some guys have done here is had a machinist make some blocks in .5 mil increments. So they have 4-7mm blocks with every half mm in there too, works like a charm.
I like using this method because you know that everything is straight up. Sometimes trying to get ride height can cause problems because the droop screws are restriciting the arm, so you end up with some funky preloads and a jacked up setup. This method, if done properly will prevent that problem. Like I said in a previous post, I like to go back once everything is set and check the droop with my AE gauge. If the tires are lifting up off the board evenly when you pick up the chassis, but the droop readings on the gauge are not even, you know there is a tweak somewhere in the chassis, or the tires are just different sizes.
As for when tire size goes down, adding droop.... Think about it this way. If you set your droop at 1mm in the front, and 1.5mm in the rear, with 58mm tires, then you go run your car 6 times and the tires wear down to 57mm, since there was 1mm of wear, that means you lost 1mm of droop all the way around. So your ride height is 1mm lower, and you have no droop in the front, and .5mm of droop in the rear. This is why you have to stay on top of it. If you set your droop strictly by the gauge, you will have to have some kind of formula for setting droop according to tire size. If you set PHYSICAL DROOP, by using the above method, you just have to make sure you stay on top of it. As the tires go down you will have to progressively back out droop screws to keep up with it.
MAKE SURE THERE IS A BATTERY AND MOTOR IN YOUR CAR!!!! If not the settings will not be right.
Sorry, I know its complicated to explain by typing,
but every time I've shown someone in person, they are like OOHHHHH!!! I get it!! Hope it makes sense.
Brett Bowen
Thanks for explaing it out for us im still not 100% sure on everything but i get the basic terms now. Thanks alot
Wills
12-25-2005, 07:55 PM
#4839
Merry Christmas Jason E.
12-25-2005, 08:23 PM
#4840
Originally Posted by QuickyTC3
I back the droop screws out first, before I set the ride height... So here is the process...
DROOP= HOW FAR THE CHASSIS LIFTS FROM NEUTRAL BEFORE THE TIRES COME OFF THE GROUND.
...As for when tire size goes down, adding droop.... Think about it this way. If you set your droop at 1mm in the front, and 1.5mm in the rear, with 58mm tires, then you go run your car 6 times and the tires wear down to 57mm, since there was 1mm of wear, that means you lost 1mm of droop all the way around. So your ride height is 1mm lower, and you have no droop in the front, and .5mm of droop in the rear. This is why you have to stay on top of it. If you set your droop strictly by the gauge, you will have to have some kind of formula for setting droop according to tire size. If you set PHYSICAL DROOP, by using the above method, you just have to make sure you stay on top of it. As the tires go down you will have to progressively back out droop screws to keep up with it.
DROOP= HOW FAR THE CHASSIS LIFTS FROM NEUTRAL BEFORE THE TIRES COME OFF THE GROUND.
...As for when tire size goes down, adding droop.... Think about it this way. If you set your droop at 1mm in the front, and 1.5mm in the rear, with 58mm tires, then you go run your car 6 times and the tires wear down to 57mm, since there was 1mm of wear, that means you lost 1mm of droop all the way around. So your ride height is 1mm lower, and you have no droop in the front, and .5mm of droop in the rear. This is why you have to stay on top of it. If you set your droop strictly by the gauge, you will have to have some kind of formula for setting droop according to tire size. If you set PHYSICAL DROOP, by using the above method, you just have to make sure you stay on top of it. As the tires go down you will have to progressively back out droop screws to keep up with it.
12-25-2005, 09:01 PM
#4841
True, you will not change the droop of the car if you dont change the ride height. When you change the ride height, one will have to change the amount of droop respectively. Also... when the tires decrease in diameter by 1mm you only loose .5mm of ride height. When you loose 1mm of ride height the radius of the tire only decreases by .5mm. Note: Diameter = 2(radius)
Basically, I try to make everything even like Brett has stated. Check shock length, spring length, preload, and the downstops from left to right. I usually check this with a droop guage such as the versions from hudy, integy, speedmind, Associated, ect... This is only to check if they are even from side to side.
Now I will put my tires on, and generally they are an equal diameter all the way around. I will put everything in my car: battery, motor, and electronics. Then set ride height at 5.0mm generally. We will call this our "static ride height".
At this point I will pull up on the shock tower from the middle untill the tires JUST start to lift off the setup board. I will hold it in that position and take the height of the car when the suspension is at full extension. For our purposes lets say the ride height of the car when the suspension is at full extension is 7mm.
Now we have our ride height at full extension and our static ride height.
Uptravel or doop = (ride height at full extension) - (Static ride height)
Using this formula we have:
Droop = 7.0mm - 5.0mm
= 2.0mm
Alot of Corally setup sheets list droop as the ride height at full extension. They also list the ride height so one can use this formula to calculate the amount of droop that particular person was running.
Some of the setup sheets have something like "2mm up" under droop. This number using the formula described above.
Hope this helps clear up any confusion.
-Korey
Basically, I try to make everything even like Brett has stated. Check shock length, spring length, preload, and the downstops from left to right. I usually check this with a droop guage such as the versions from hudy, integy, speedmind, Associated, ect... This is only to check if they are even from side to side.
Now I will put my tires on, and generally they are an equal diameter all the way around. I will put everything in my car: battery, motor, and electronics. Then set ride height at 5.0mm generally. We will call this our "static ride height".
At this point I will pull up on the shock tower from the middle untill the tires JUST start to lift off the setup board. I will hold it in that position and take the height of the car when the suspension is at full extension. For our purposes lets say the ride height of the car when the suspension is at full extension is 7mm.
Now we have our ride height at full extension and our static ride height.
Uptravel or doop = (ride height at full extension) - (Static ride height)
Using this formula we have:
Droop = 7.0mm - 5.0mm
= 2.0mm
Alot of Corally setup sheets list droop as the ride height at full extension. They also list the ride height so one can use this formula to calculate the amount of droop that particular person was running.
Some of the setup sheets have something like "2mm up" under droop. This number using the formula described above.
Hope this helps clear up any confusion.
-Korey
12-25-2005, 09:07 PM
#4842
Droop 201
Depends on how you are measuring the droop, if you are just using a gauge, then the droop obviously wont change unless you adjust the droop screw. Think about it, if you are using 58mm tires, have your ride height set at 4, and you car is on a 5.5mm block and the droop is set so the tires are JUST touching the board, then you throw on a set of 57mm tires, they will be 1mm off the board, leaving only .5mm of droop compared the to 1.5 you got from the 58mm tires. Droop is a confusing phenomenon 
and everyone has different theorys, I'm just sharing mine.
Brett
and everyone has different theorys, I'm just sharing mine. Brett
. We should make some flash video explaining it
12-26-2005, 06:45 AM
#4844
Would be a very good idea. Any one up for it 
12-26-2005, 07:56 AM
#4845
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
I will cut and paste it for u it is by far the best way and as soon as you learn it you can short cut .... say you want run 5mm ride H ft and rear pull the wheels off and top oe bottom of the shocks set on tweak board and from the bottom of the board to the top of axle is 24.5mm that is 4mm droop if u use takoff cs27s and 23.5mm is 5mm droop
so, 'ha' means what?