EPIC "D3" Duo 3
11-24-2010, 11:45 AM
#91
There has only been 2 batches of Duo 3's thus far. There is not a difference in motors. Some do have very weak rotors though and only way to get one thats not is buy from someone that goes through them and weeds those out. But as far as on track performance between 1st and 2nd batch I havent seen any or any differences on the dyno other than ones with weak rotors. Those you can tell a difference....HOT OR COLD. FWIW Rotors get worse when hot.
Their is an updated one coming in the next batch that is supposed to have notches on the endbell to see how much timing you are putting in them (Like the duo 2).
Their is an updated one coming in the next batch that is supposed to have notches on the endbell to see how much timing you are putting in them (Like the duo 2).
11-26-2010, 05:26 AM
#92
There are some around that people have been testing, but I am not aware of any that have been shipped with motors and I am not aware of any availabe for sale at this point. Now a large motor supplier that purchases 100s of motors at a time may have the ability to take the stock rotors and check them and determine that some are weaker than others and use those for 1s application. That is very possible. It is even possible that they have some 1s rotors to play and test. However, they are not being sold via epic to the masses yet. Once they are comfortable with the performance of them, they will be released.
I hope this helps.
I am only a team guy as well and do not have full knowledge of all the workings inside and out of Epic. I am only offering what I know at this point to try and help.
Best luck to all!
I hope this helps.
I am only a team guy as well and do not have full knowledge of all the workings inside and out of Epic. I am only offering what I know at this point to try and help.
Best luck to all!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...h-RPM-D3-Rotor
idbdoug
11-26-2010, 09:27 AM
#94
There has only been 2 batches of Duo 3's thus far. There is not a difference in motors. Some do have very weak rotors though and only way to get one thats not is buy from someone that goes through them and weeds those out. But as far as on track performance between 1st and 2nd batch I havent seen any or any differences on the dyno other than ones with weak rotors. Those you can tell a difference....HOT OR COLD. FWIW Rotors get worse when hot.
Their is an updated one coming in the next batch that is supposed to have notches on the endbell to see how much timing you are putting in them (Like the duo 2).
Their is an updated one coming in the next batch that is supposed to have notches on the endbell to see how much timing you are putting in them (Like the duo 2).
11-26-2010, 09:42 AM
#95
I have very limited time on a 1S 17.5 boosted scenario on a tight 12th scale track. Once I can timed to roughly .1" (instead of the factory suggested .08"), it came to life. Practice time ran out and I fell back on the Duo1. It's early, but I think there is hope this time! 
Brian
Brian
11-26-2010, 01:52 PM
#96
I have very limited time on a 1S 17.5 boosted scenario on a tight 12th scale track. Once I can timed to roughly .1" (instead of the factory suggested .08"), it came to life. Practice time ran out and I fell back on the Duo1. It's early, but I think there is hope this time!
Brian
Brian
11-26-2010, 02:12 PM
#97
Hey Wiita,
Ive only ran the motor in 17.5 TC thus far. But I have ran it at zero and full timing and the difference is very little on gearing. Probably 2 teeth max. On the dyno you gain about 1000rpm at full timing and increased wattage across the board. So far its ran best for me at full timing in TC as well. The motor runs cooler to me also than a D2 or D1.
EA
Ive only ran the motor in 17.5 TC thus far. But I have ran it at zero and full timing and the difference is very little on gearing. Probably 2 teeth max. On the dyno you gain about 1000rpm at full timing and increased wattage across the board. So far its ran best for me at full timing in TC as well. The motor runs cooler to me also than a D2 or D1.
EA
11-26-2010, 05:51 PM
#98
The 17.5 D3 that I purchased is a Trinity and not a rebadged piece. The instructions call out for increased timing to be not much more then .080 of an inch past their 0 hash mark. If Eric says newer ones will come with actual degree marks etched in, that will be a better design. Moving the endbell randomly "this much" seems kinda lacking. I did not twist the timing to max to see if there was a mechanical limit.... there might be. Like I said, I only ran the motor 3 times at different timed locations with the same roll out. I never got an indication that it was going to run hot or be finicky. This could be the best motor since the Duo1, but I don't know if it's going to be better. I wont get to test 17.5 for some time now.
11-27-2010, 05:12 AM
#99
The 17.5 D3 that I purchased is a Trinity and not a rebadged piece. The instructions call out for increased timing to be not much more then .080 of an inch past their 0 hash mark. If Eric says newer ones will come with actual degree marks etched in, that will be a better design. Moving the endbell randomly "this much" seems kinda lacking. I did not twist the timing to max to see if there was a mechanical limit.... there might be. Like I said, I only ran the motor 3 times at different timed locations with the same roll out. I never got an indication that it was going to run hot or be finicky. This could be the best motor since the Duo1, but I don't know if it's going to be better. I wont get to test 17.5 for some time now.
11-27-2010, 06:29 AM
#100
The 17.5 D3 that I purchased is a Trinity and not a rebadged piece. The instructions call out for increased timing to be not much more then .080 of an inch past their 0 hash mark. If Eric says newer ones will come with actual degree marks etched in, that will be a better design. Moving the endbell randomly "this much" seems kinda lacking. I did not twist the timing to max to see if there was a mechanical limit.... there might be. Like I said, I only ran the motor 3 times at different timed locations with the same roll out. I never got an indication that it was going to run hot or be finicky. This could be the best motor since the Duo1, but I don't know if it's going to be better. I wont get to test 17.5 for some time now.
idbdoug
11-27-2010, 07:51 AM
#101
In a 12th scale would it still be a good idea to max the timing out in the can instead of using the tekin?
11-27-2010, 03:30 PM
#102
11-27-2010, 08:39 PM
#103
.080 past 0 is aproximatly 7.5 deg of timing, .100 is about 10deg of timing.. this is by measuring from 0deg mark.. hope that helps to understand what the timing may be..
JP
JP
11-27-2010, 08:53 PM
#104
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Hey Wiita,
Ive only ran the motor in 17.5 TC thus far. But I have ran it at zero and full timing and the difference is very little on gearing. Probably 2 teeth max. On the dyno you gain about 1000rpm at full timing and increased wattage across the board. So far its ran best for me at full timing in TC as well. The motor runs cooler to me also than a D2 or D1.
EA
Ive only ran the motor in 17.5 TC thus far. But I have ran it at zero and full timing and the difference is very little on gearing. Probably 2 teeth max. On the dyno you gain about 1000rpm at full timing and increased wattage across the board. So far its ran best for me at full timing in TC as well. The motor runs cooler to me also than a D2 or D1.
EA
12-07-2010, 07:52 AM
#105
Tech Initiate
anybody have any gearing recomendations for this motor?
I was running a Duo 2 with max timing in spec rubber touring (17.5).
Is there a standard gear up/down that people are using with this motor?
Should I go up one tooth, two teeth, three?
Thanks!
Rob
I was running a Duo 2 with max timing in spec rubber touring (17.5).
Is there a standard gear up/down that people are using with this motor?
Should I go up one tooth, two teeth, three?
Thanks!
Rob