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Old 11-24-2010, 12:45 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn View Post
how do i differentiate between old and new batch of duo3's?
There has only been 2 batches of Duo 3's thus far. There is not a difference in motors. Some do have very weak rotors though and only way to get one thats not is buy from someone that goes through them and weeds those out. But as far as on track performance between 1st and 2nd batch I havent seen any or any differences on the dyno other than ones with weak rotors. Those you can tell a difference....HOT OR COLD. FWIW Rotors get worse when hot.

Their is an updated one coming in the next batch that is supposed to have notches on the endbell to see how much timing you are putting in them (Like the duo 2).
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Old 11-26-2010, 06:26 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by JFuel11 View Post
There are some around that people have been testing, but I am not aware of any that have been shipped with motors and I am not aware of any availabe for sale at this point. Now a large motor supplier that purchases 100s of motors at a time may have the ability to take the stock rotors and check them and determine that some are weaker than others and use those for 1s application. That is very possible. It is even possible that they have some 1s rotors to play and test. However, they are not being sold via epic to the masses yet. Once they are comfortable with the performance of them, they will be released.

I hope this helps.

I am only a team guy as well and do not have full knowledge of all the workings inside and out of Epic. I am only offering what I know at this point to try and help.

Best luck to all!
Yep, 1S rotors are for sale:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...h-RPM-D3-Rotor
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:20 AM   #93
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Yep, 1S rotors are for sale:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...h-RPM-D3-Rotor
idbdoug
Smart marketing and a good way to utilize the rotor tester.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:27 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
There has only been 2 batches of Duo 3's thus far. There is not a difference in motors. Some do have very weak rotors though and only way to get one thats not is buy from someone that goes through them and weeds those out. But as far as on track performance between 1st and 2nd batch I havent seen any or any differences on the dyno other than ones with weak rotors. Those you can tell a difference....HOT OR COLD. FWIW Rotors get worse when hot.

Their is an updated one coming in the next batch that is supposed to have notches on the endbell to see how much timing you are putting in them (Like the duo 2).
Anybody running any endbell timing in this motor like the duo 2? how about you EA?
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:42 AM   #95
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I have very limited time on a 1S 17.5 boosted scenario on a tight 12th scale track. Once I can timed to roughly .1" (instead of the factory suggested .08"), it came to life. Practice time ran out and I fell back on the Duo1. It's early, but I think there is hope this time!
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Old 11-26-2010, 02:52 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
I have very limited time on a 1S 17.5 boosted scenario on a tight 12th scale track. Once I can timed to roughly .1" (instead of the factory suggested .08"), it came to life. Practice time ran out and I fell back on the Duo1. It's early, but I think there is hope this time!
Brian
Brian, Is it possible to elaborate on this a little. What do you mean .1"? Sorry I'm fairly new to all this. Thanks kindly.
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:12 PM   #97
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Hey Wiita,

Ive only ran the motor in 17.5 TC thus far. But I have ran it at zero and full timing and the difference is very little on gearing. Probably 2 teeth max. On the dyno you gain about 1000rpm at full timing and increased wattage across the board. So far its ran best for me at full timing in TC as well. The motor runs cooler to me also than a D2 or D1.

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Old 11-26-2010, 06:51 PM   #98
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Brian, Is it possible to elaborate on this a little. What do you mean .1"? Sorry I'm fairly new to all this. Thanks kindly.
The 17.5 D3 that I purchased is a Trinity and not a rebadged piece. The instructions call out for increased timing to be not much more then .080 of an inch past their 0 hash mark. If Eric says newer ones will come with actual degree marks etched in, that will be a better design. Moving the endbell randomly "this much" seems kinda lacking. I did not twist the timing to max to see if there was a mechanical limit.... there might be. Like I said, I only ran the motor 3 times at different timed locations with the same roll out. I never got an indication that it was going to run hot or be finicky. This could be the best motor since the Duo1, but I don't know if it's going to be better. I wont get to test 17.5 for some time now.
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Old 11-27-2010, 06:12 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
The 17.5 D3 that I purchased is a Trinity and not a rebadged piece. The instructions call out for increased timing to be not much more then .080 of an inch past their 0 hash mark. If Eric says newer ones will come with actual degree marks etched in, that will be a better design. Moving the endbell randomly "this much" seems kinda lacking. I did not twist the timing to max to see if there was a mechanical limit.... there might be. Like I said, I only ran the motor 3 times at different timed locations with the same roll out. I never got an indication that it was going to run hot or be finicky. This could be the best motor since the Duo1, but I don't know if it's going to be better. I wont get to test 17.5 for some time now.
Ah, now I see what you mean. Thanks a lot for the explanation. Much appreciated.
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:29 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
The 17.5 D3 that I purchased is a Trinity and not a rebadged piece. The instructions call out for increased timing to be not much more then .080 of an inch past their 0 hash mark. If Eric says newer ones will come with actual degree marks etched in, that will be a better design. Moving the endbell randomly "this much" seems kinda lacking. I did not twist the timing to max to see if there was a mechanical limit.... there might be. Like I said, I only ran the motor 3 times at different timed locations with the same roll out. I never got an indication that it was going to run hot or be finicky. This could be the best motor since the Duo1, but I don't know if it's going to be better. I wont get to test 17.5 for some time now.
Yes the timing is restricted physically/mechanically by the slot width
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:51 AM   #101
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In a 12th scale would it still be a good idea to max the timing out in the can instead of using the tekin?
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Old 11-27-2010, 04:30 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by gguertin145 View Post
In a 12th scale would it still be a good idea to max the timing out in the can instead of using the tekin?
It depends , If your allowed to run boost , I would say if you can run boost , run it and no timing on the motor.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:39 PM   #103
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.080 past 0 is aproximatly 7.5 deg of timing, .100 is about 10deg of timing.. this is by measuring from 0deg mark.. hope that helps to understand what the timing may be..

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Old 11-27-2010, 09:53 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Hey Wiita,

Ive only ran the motor in 17.5 TC thus far. But I have ran it at zero and full timing and the difference is very little on gearing. Probably 2 teeth max. On the dyno you gain about 1000rpm at full timing and increased wattage across the board. So far its ran best for me at full timing in TC as well. The motor runs cooler to me also than a D2 or D1.

EA
I had the same experience as Eric with the D3 in stock no timing sedan. Full timing in the motor worked best (endbell turned till it stops).
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:52 AM   #105
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anybody have any gearing recomendations for this motor?

I was running a Duo 2 with max timing in spec rubber touring (17.5).

Is there a standard gear up/down that people are using with this motor?

Should I go up one tooth, two teeth, three?

Thanks!

Rob
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