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Old 01-05-2011, 10:30 PM   #226
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Originally Posted by stipres View Post
I ended up on a 3.7 FDR, I am pretty sure we are in the right range. Just gonna have to play with it. There are numerous factors; ambient temps, traction, battery rating, drive-train efficiency, etc, etc....
How much timing are you running in the motor?

With the Duo 1's I ran 2.9-3.3 depending on track size and battery C rating.
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:52 PM   #227
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guys,, I am just curious what are the differences between these two

1. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ess-Motor-175T

2. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ess-Motor-175T

can someone tell me what are the differences ??



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Old 01-06-2011, 02:00 PM   #228
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One has a sticker on it from Express... but they are both the same.. Duo 3 motor.. can't go wrong..

Cheers


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guys,, I am just curious what are the differences between these two

1. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ess-Motor-175T

2. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ess-Motor-175T

can someone tell me what are the differences ??



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Old 01-06-2011, 02:05 PM   #229
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One has a sticker on it from Express... but they are both the same.. Duo 3 motor.. can't go wrong..

Cheers
man, I have just recieved D3 stock 17.5 the "black knight" one today ..I am just curious about the differences between those two...

can't wait for weekend to run it ...

anyway,, they're the same motors, aren't they ???
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:32 PM   #230
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Originally Posted by rendcool View Post
man, I have just recieved D3 stock 17.5 the "black knight" one today ..I am just curious about the differences between those two...

can't wait for weekend to run it ...

anyway,, they're the same motors, aren't they ???
Well......$14 different, at least! Should make you go faster, but only because your wallet is lighter!

Seriously, though, 'tuned' motors as far as brushless go consists of someone gauss checking rotors, inductance checking stators, matching them up in their specific combo, properly shimming the rotor (usually but not always), and checking their work on some sort of dyno to ensure a certain performance level (which is usually somewhat above an 'average' motor).
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:02 PM   #231
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Well......$14 different, at least! Should make you go faster, but only because your wallet is lighter!

Seriously, though, 'tuned' motors as far as brushless go consists of someone gauss checking rotors, inductance checking stators, matching them up in their specific combo, properly shimming the rotor (usually but not always), and checking their work on some sort of dyno to ensure a certain performance level (which is usually somewhat above an 'average' motor).
And insure you don't get a pile a crap and have to buy another. Spend the extra $
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:39 PM   #232
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Default rotor size

Could you guys recommened a specific rotor for:

13.5
World GT
1s
Tekin, non-ramping, no boost, etc..
Medium sized carpet.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:52 AM   #233
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Could you guys recommened a specific rotor for:

13.5
World GT
1s
Tekin, non-ramping, no boost, etc..
Medium sized carpet.

Thanks,
Steve
Blue ring 12.3 High RPM rotor. ITs where its at for 1S and Oval racing!

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Old 01-07-2011, 07:03 AM   #234
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
Well......$14 different, at least! Should make you go faster, but only because your wallet is lighter!

Seriously, though, 'tuned' motors as far as brushless go consists of someone gauss checking rotors, inductance checking stators, matching them up in their specific combo, properly shimming the rotor (usually but not always), and checking their work on some sort of dyno to ensure a certain performance level (which is usually somewhat above an 'average' motor).
my theory is, and I will get flamed big time for this;

team drivers for these motor blueprinters get the best of the tested bunch.

What do you think they will do with the ones that dont pass the test? Throw them out? nonsense, if they threw them out, then there is simply no $$ to be made.

they get sold to guys like you and me.

so in the end, you are getting 'less' of a motor compared to an off the shelf epic.

And before someone says, well yes my #$%@ motor is way better than an off the shelf motor........back it up with some numbers.

I have bought from nearly all these tweaked motor houses and none of them were any quicker or more powerful than a normal one.

I challenge someone to provide real stats to prove what you are getting is a better performance motor!
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:18 AM   #235
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my theory is, and I will get flamed big time for this;

team drivers for these motor blueprinters get the best of the tested bunch.

What do you think they will do with the ones that dont pass the test? Throw them out? nonsense, if they threw them out, then there is simply no $$ to be made.

they get sold to guys like you and me.

so in the end, you are getting 'less' of a motor compared to an off the shelf epic.

And before someone says, well yes my #$%@ motor is way better than an off the shelf motor........back it up with some numbers.

I have bought from nearly all these tweaked motor houses and none of them were any quicker or more powerful than a normal one.

I challenge someone to provide real stats to prove what you are getting is a better performance motor!
Good theory...
BUT, in my case...
I can tell you, I've dynoed a pretty big pile of motors and the ones that have weaker rotors, higher inductance numbers, and just don't "cut it" are not sold as "team" motors, but as a brushless motor that's not as good, at a discounted price. The customer is aware of what he's getting. I've always tried to prep every motor as if I was using it. For example, at the US Indoorchamps, I had a pretty big pile of motors and sold the better motors to paying customers and ran what didn't sell. End result, TQ and win 1/12 masters.
The "team" guys ran motors that were equal to what was being sold.
I'd rather see a paying customer get a great motor then saving them all...
just my .02 cents...
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:02 AM   #236
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Good theory...
BUT, in my case...
I can tell you, I've dynoed a pretty big pile of motors and the ones that have weaker rotors, higher inductance numbers, and just don't "cut it" are not sold as "team" motors, but as a brushless motor that's not as good, at a discounted price. The customer is aware of what he's getting. I've always tried to prep every motor as if I was using it. For example, at the US Indoorchamps, I had a pretty big pile of motors and sold the better motors to paying customers and ran what didn't sell. End result, TQ and win 1/12 masters.
The "team" guys ran motors that were equal to what was being sold.
I'd rather see a paying customer get a great motor then saving them all...
just my .02 cents...
yes you do get what you pay for.

I never buy the 'specials' as I know there are risks. Shops dont mark them down cos they feel like having a sale. They know which batches are good and which are not.

but include normal off the shelf motors that are not marked down, and compare them to 'blueprinted' motors.
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:36 AM   #237
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yes you do get what you pay for.

I never buy the 'specials' as I know there are risks. Shops dont mark them down cos they feel like having a sale. They know which batches are good and which are not.

but include normal off the shelf motors that are not marked down, and compare them to 'blueprinted' motors.

If I have a less then steller motor it doesn't go to a hobbyshop.
I make sure what is sold is much better then an "off the shelf" motor and as good as what a "team" guy would run.

This can be debated over and over.

My advise is find someone you trust and stick with them
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:52 AM   #238
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Like Fantom.....

Since late 1991 I've been dealing with Fantom and even through some of the funkiest winds I asked for back then I have NEVER had a motor poof or that didn't run til you couldn't cut the comm any more.

Oh how I can't wait til we get back to winding our own armatures, er um stators, again.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:53 PM   #239
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Plus, if nothing else, you were short changed on the value of your purchase! After rechecking the math and going through the "numbers" I think you will find that you actually got a really cool $15 sticker for your Trinity Motor.

That's got to be way faster than a $14 sticker, ??? right???
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Old 01-08-2011, 03:37 AM   #240
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the $15 sticker is no good anyway as it gets removed by the heatsink
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