eComet

iTrader: (69)

The setup sheet doesn't state your droop or down travel. I would say try the following, in order:

1. Increase droop both front and rear, with front a bit more than rear.
2. Switch to a grade softer spring at the back.
3. Reduce front toe to 0.5 or 0.
4. Sauce the whole rear tires, and only inner half of front tires if you're using any.
5. If still no improvement, move the rear outer upright hole from outer to inner to increase camber gain at turning.
6. Change to different tires, like Sorex 28R. Lower grip means your tire won't heat up as much to the proper tire temperature range. I ran Sorex 32R at medium grip asphalt only when temperature is above 20 degress Celsius. Lower than 20 I use Sorex 28R.

GerwinGood

Thanks for the feedback and will try it out.

Any more feedback is welcome

chrisk

iTrader: (32)

thanks for the help

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

No prob post some pics up

chrisk

iTrader: (32)

just got the car last week and i have been lucky that it has been raining hard here for two days so i have been able to get it 90% done, will post some pics during the week

what an awsome car to build

chrisk

iTrader: (32)

what is the smallest Spur you can run so you can still get to the engine mount screw?

i am running non-timed 21.5 so i am down at 3.5 fdr

i have spur 69, pinion 38, but no luck getting to the screw.

the only option i see is to drill a hole towards the outer edge of the spur to give my hex-driver access to the motor mount screw.

what else has anybody else done for this problem?

Tron

iTrader: (17)

I run 17.5 and what I do is set the mesh and pin the one motor mount screw you can get to, then lift out the center diff and do the 'hidden' one.

When I change my pinions I always have the top deck off, I find it much easier in 17.5 and 21.5 with the pinion sizes we have to run.

chrisk

iTrader: (32)

thats a good idea

i only run at the one track so i dont usually change pinion spur much

so thanks heaps

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I agree with most of what eComet says, what you describe sounds symptomatic of a general lack of grip (loose on power, no steering).

I would suggest tyres should be the first thing to change, sorex 28's would deffinetly be a good start, otherwise heat up the 32's a lot (say 60+ °C on tyre warmers). Tyres are 75% of the setup when in an open tyre formula, get those right and your already be improving

Then try the droop, 5 Front 4 rear seems to work best in low traction.
Spring change should be helpful too (either to Pink front, or Blue rear, depending on how you track is), or maybe try going out on the rear tower one hole.

HiH
Ed

AWK

iTrader: (9)

Honestly, I have been running my 416WE with the Tamiya lipo chassis in 17.5 no boost and been quite happy with it. Is there any reason right now to replace it with the 417? I have read a lot about the rear grip issues, and running on asphalt only, I don't see that it would be an advantage for me, but I would like to hear if anyone else has some experiences between the two.

Also, maybe at this point I just wait for the 417X coming out next year (no inside information, just the typical Tamiya pattern).

mwoods

Can someone tell me the spring ratings for these springs

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=3856

Thanks

eComet

iTrader: (69)

Frankly speaking, for non-boost 17.5 the TRF416 would work fine. The TRF417 has beefier motor bulkheads so it's better if you're running boosted or mod motor. I have both TRF416XL and TRF417 and I intend to keep my TRF416XL for non-boosted and TRF417 for boosted class. Also, my TRF416XL flexes more than the TRF417 so for medium grip asphalt, it should grip a bit better.

For TRF417, have you guys try to cut the front upper deck link? The stock one looks like an A shape and I wonder if anyone cut the center support to make it a V shape, so to make it more flexible? I don't want to cut the motor mount and I am using the split blocks as well.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

You know what Tamiya needs? A touring car that has some f'ing rear grip on something other than the most pristine surfaces. I've been driving these stupid piece of s*** cars for 4 years now, and that problem has plagued me everywhere I go. So you know what? I'm done supporting a brand that doesn't care about North America, and only works right when the stars align. I'll be selling all this junk and buying something that works, from a company that supports racing.

Slick990

No problem with the cars in the Uk, and we have no grip over here.

PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

Man did ya have a bad weekend of racing or what?? Wish I had some extra cash...I'd buy your 417.

My 416X works great on low-med grip carpet. I'll be trying it on a parking lot track in the up coming months. Is the 417 really that bad?