Kyosho electric cars
11-08-2001, 09:01 PM
#107
Tech Initiate
one way Blues
Well My new oneway blew during the first pack through it on sunday. broke down and put in the ball diff up front. the car is very consistant with the diff in the front. I still have gobs of steering with dbl purples in the front and purples in the rear. the car seems to be too soft in stock form for carpet. Kyosho is getting Two oneways back next week. We'll see if they compensate me or even admit that there is a problem with the parts.
11-09-2001, 09:46 AM
#108
wow- that's amazing! Be sure to send it to Hobbyservices for warranty repair- there it will be free. There's a link at the kyosho site for repair work.
I can not beleive this! Well- good luck with the regular diff. When my newly replaced one-way goes out i'm going to send it for repair again and again till they get a clue. The good thing is that they sent back the broken one so that I can have a back-up after I press in a new bearing.
I can not beleive this! Well- good luck with the regular diff. When my newly replaced one-way goes out i'm going to send it for repair again and again till they get a clue. The good thing is that they sent back the broken one so that I can have a back-up after I press in a new bearing.
11-09-2001, 11:46 AM
#109
Slightly off topic, but potentially interesting is the fact that when I was big into R/C Helis, the one helicopter that had oneway issues was from Kyosho... Their Concept 30 was notorious for locking the oneway on the main gear to the mainshaft for a while.
Trips
Trips
11-12-2001, 01:22 PM
#110
Tech Rookie
Kyosho KX-ONE Oneway Problems
We at Great Planes have just recently heard of these problems,
We have Contacted the Engineers at Kyosho in Japan and this is what they suggest to correct the One-Way situations:
Point 1: Inserting Front Cup Joints (Key No 30 and 32 in the instruction
manual) into the Front One Way Unit
(A) Make sure to wipe out oil on the Cup Joints.
Why?: The oil on the Cup Joints cause them "slip" in the One Way Unit, and
it damages the bearing with too much stress.
(B) Make sure to "rolling in" the Cup Joints when insert into the One Way
Unit. (Make sure to roll in right direction.)
Why?: One way bearing can be easily damaged when the Cup Joints are
inserted with too much stress.
Hint #1: Apply ball diff grease on the Cup Joints. This eliminates the
"slipping."
Hint #2: Treat the one way bearing with care. It is very
delicate.
Point 2: Suspension Travel
(A) Make sure "NOT" to remove the Shock Stopper (Key No 135) from the Shock
Shaft. This is very important!!
Why?: Without the Shock Stopper, when the chassis went to the full bottom
(means when the Sus Arm was lifted all the way up to the top), the Drive
Shaft (Key No 57) hits the Front Cup Joints and it gives too much stress to
the one way bearing. We have seen many drivers running their cars without
the Shock Stoppers in Japan. Fortunately, here in Japan, there are not much
flat pylons used on race tracks, therefore it is very rare to have this
problem. But we know in the states, they use these flat pylons on many race
tracks.
Point 3: Install Ball Diff on the front.
If they like, they can install Ball Diff on the front instead. They can
install the rear ball diff in the front, just like it is installed in the
rear, without making any modification at all. It was designed so.
Our team drivers normally replace the front one way unit after 70 to 100
packs of driving, by the way. We know others (Yokomo, HPI, etc) are the
same. So the durability of the one way bearing should be fine!!
If this does not correct your problem please notify us and we will see what else we can come up with.
We have Contacted the Engineers at Kyosho in Japan and this is what they suggest to correct the One-Way situations:
Point 1: Inserting Front Cup Joints (Key No 30 and 32 in the instruction
manual) into the Front One Way Unit
(A) Make sure to wipe out oil on the Cup Joints.
Why?: The oil on the Cup Joints cause them "slip" in the One Way Unit, and
it damages the bearing with too much stress.
(B) Make sure to "rolling in" the Cup Joints when insert into the One Way
Unit. (Make sure to roll in right direction.)
Why?: One way bearing can be easily damaged when the Cup Joints are
inserted with too much stress.
Hint #1: Apply ball diff grease on the Cup Joints. This eliminates the
"slipping."
Hint #2: Treat the one way bearing with care. It is very
delicate.
Point 2: Suspension Travel
(A) Make sure "NOT" to remove the Shock Stopper (Key No 135) from the Shock
Shaft. This is very important!!
Why?: Without the Shock Stopper, when the chassis went to the full bottom
(means when the Sus Arm was lifted all the way up to the top), the Drive
Shaft (Key No 57) hits the Front Cup Joints and it gives too much stress to
the one way bearing. We have seen many drivers running their cars without
the Shock Stoppers in Japan. Fortunately, here in Japan, there are not much
flat pylons used on race tracks, therefore it is very rare to have this
problem. But we know in the states, they use these flat pylons on many race
tracks.
Point 3: Install Ball Diff on the front.
If they like, they can install Ball Diff on the front instead. They can
install the rear ball diff in the front, just like it is installed in the
rear, without making any modification at all. It was designed so.
Our team drivers normally replace the front one way unit after 70 to 100
packs of driving, by the way. We know others (Yokomo, HPI, etc) are the
same. So the durability of the one way bearing should be fine!!
If this does not correct your problem please notify us and we will see what else we can come up with.
11-12-2001, 02:45 PM
#111
Thank You!
Knowing that this has come to Kyosho's attention is much appreciated. I did not have a chance to run my KX-one since receiving it from Hobby Services but I look foward to trying it now that there are some prescriptions mentioned here that I can use.
Thanks for the suggestions,
Mike
Knowing that this has come to Kyosho's attention is much appreciated. I did not have a chance to run my KX-one since receiving it from Hobby Services but I look foward to trying it now that there are some prescriptions mentioned here that I can use.
Thanks for the suggestions,
Mike
11-13-2001, 06:53 PM
#112
Tech Rookie
Wow, Great Planes admitting there is a problem....
Now what are they going to do to compensate everyone for these front-one ways that have given up the ghost!!!???
PHil W2GE
Now what are they going to do to compensate everyone for these front-one ways that have given up the ghost!!!???
PHil W2GE
11-13-2001, 07:10 PM
#113
Originally posted by w2ge
Wow, Great Planes admitting there is a problem....
Wow, Great Planes admitting there is a problem....
You want to see what admitting something is......HPI admitted there was a problem with parts of the Pro3 and posted on their public site and offered replacements. Now thats admitting something!
I don't see "Put a ball diff in the front" as a cure for one-ways that keep failing. They still have a great car that has an Achilles heel. Until they can come up with a sure fire way to correct it FROM THE FACTORY, it still should be viewed as a serious problem.
Anyways......
Good luck to you guys who are trying to make it work with the methods GP Support suggested.
11-15-2001, 09:56 PM
#114
Tech Initiate
one-way
I solved my one-way problems, built and installed a front diff. Now if i can only keep the rear inside from lifting while cornering on carpet.
11-16-2001, 03:45 AM
#115
slamin, you need to mess with the limiters in the shocks. Fine tune with the shock ends.
11-16-2001, 05:45 AM
#116
Tech Rookie
Slammy, you still runnin the sway bar in the rear??????????
11-17-2001, 05:56 AM
#117
Tech Initiate
Yeah Philster. My next move is to beef up the sway bars.
11-18-2001, 09:04 PM
#118
Tech Initiate
solved the proble. while i was installing number two one-way, i did not fully seat the front arm mounts against the chassis with the screw that is deep in the mount. wrong philips screwdriver used. this caused one of the front arms to bind. now the car is handling awesome.
11-20-2001, 10:14 AM
#119
I put 5 battery packs through my car and what do you know, the one-way held up! I even bounced the car afew times off of dots and pvc pipe with no problems. What caused the problem was not having enough spacers (uptravel limiters) in the front shocks before. Just to be safe I put the 2mm spacer as well as 1 o-ring and now problem solved. whew...
11-24-2001, 12:43 AM
#120
hey fellas,
i just got a kxone. i'm really excited. seems like the chassis flex is right on. i don't like all of the pan head screws though, but i'll live. i've read most of the posts in this thread. what's up with those dual rate pistons. garbage, if you ask me. really, i found the shocks feel bad in general due to metal/metal contact. anyone try using two orings separated by a thinner spacer? works like a champ. i think the durometer of the silicone orings of the kit is too low. i was dicking around with the associated orange orings. they are a bit harder and it keeps the shaft centered better so it won't rub the shock so much. what do ya think? by the way, what pistons will fit inside the kyosho shocks? i have some fsr ones that fit perfect, but i can't get em anymore and only three of them match. maybe i'll just run different shocks, but i hate to leave the kit shocks sitting around. i think the piston diameter can be up to .395 or so. any suggestions? i have yet to put any packs through it. i'm in search of a front diff. as many of you are too. i'm gonna try to hold out running it till i get one. well, you'll be hearing more from me soon. let me know what ya think and any other tips for me. later.
i just got a kxone. i'm really excited. seems like the chassis flex is right on. i don't like all of the pan head screws though, but i'll live. i've read most of the posts in this thread. what's up with those dual rate pistons. garbage, if you ask me. really, i found the shocks feel bad in general due to metal/metal contact. anyone try using two orings separated by a thinner spacer? works like a champ. i think the durometer of the silicone orings of the kit is too low. i was dicking around with the associated orange orings. they are a bit harder and it keeps the shaft centered better so it won't rub the shock so much. what do ya think? by the way, what pistons will fit inside the kyosho shocks? i have some fsr ones that fit perfect, but i can't get em anymore and only three of them match. maybe i'll just run different shocks, but i hate to leave the kit shocks sitting around. i think the piston diameter can be up to .395 or so. any suggestions? i have yet to put any packs through it. i'm in search of a front diff. as many of you are too. i'm gonna try to hold out running it till i get one. well, you'll be hearing more from me soon. let me know what ya think and any other tips for me. later.