Team Associated TC6 Thread
#4248
Hi guys I am not sure if this has been discussed or solved but I am having a issue with my arm mount bushings rotating inside the arm mounts which connect to the hinge pins. I have tried just about everything, including gluing them with CA, replacing them and even grinding the flat spot for a better fit. But they still rotate and create slop on the hinge pin. Any help would be appreciated
Once you've done that you may then find the whole mount/bushing assembly just rotates around the screw due to a lack of friction between the mount and the washers/bulkhead. There are various solutions to this including making carbon fibre spacers, only running the A3 mounts, or buying one of the below items:
http://www.ppdbillet.com/dial-a-grip.htm
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6-...ocks_p_18.html
#4249
Tech Initiate
arm mount slop
Thanks for the link to that site bud, i ordered a set this morning.
cheers
cheers
#4253
Tech Regular
im thinking of picking up a tc6.
is their a newb page to help beginners out? to set up tc6?
is their any parts that should be replaced right away?
is their a newb page to help beginners out? to set up tc6?
is their any parts that should be replaced right away?
#4254
Tech Fanatic
No it works fine from box but there is the gear differential coming out soon for the rear and eventually front if you want to replace the spool.
#4255
Tech Regular
iTrader: (27)
So I'm really happy with my TC6...got a pretty sweet setup going and all is well, but I have one problem. It seems the screws that hold the arm mounts to the bulkheads bend over time, which causes the angle of the arm to change. I also noticed the shims behind the mount, especially if running a lot of toe, seem like they are being smashed between the arm mounts and bulkheads. Is there any way to make this more solid? Is this what the Reflex suspension block locks are for? Any tips would be great..
#4256
Tech Elite
iTrader: (141)
So I'm really happy with my TC6...got a pretty sweet setup going and all is well, but I have one problem. It seems the screws that hold the arm mounts to the bulkheads bend over time, which causes the angle of the arm to change. I also noticed the shims behind the mount, especially if running a lot of toe, seem like they are being smashed between the arm mounts and bulkheads. Is there any way to make this more solid? Is this what the Reflex suspension block locks are for? Any tips would be great..
I believe most guys are using aluminum shims/washers
by the way, noticed you have a 417 for sale, is it not a good car?
#4257
hi guys, what would be a good starting put on the tc6 with a 5.5t and standard spur? I usually run 10.5
thanks
thanks
#4259
Got my second TC6 this month and I had a positive surprise:
The kit is complete, all threads are there and the little problems I had building the first kit are solved. For example the turnbuckle eyelets fit the ballstud without binding and the suspension parts are less a problem when assembling. I cannot imagine that they changed the injection mold, but everything is free without slop.
The kit is complete, all threads are there and the little problems I had building the first kit are solved. For example the turnbuckle eyelets fit the ballstud without binding and the suspension parts are less a problem when assembling. I cannot imagine that they changed the injection mold, but everything is free without slop.
#4260
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
How big of a track? Inside carpet I used a 115t spur to get into the 9-11 range. Outside on big tracks I like from 104-108t spur since you don't need crazy short gearing.
Like hacker said using aluminum shims takes away some of the "compression" that can happen to the plastic.
The Reflex blocks are good, and I like the long screws they offer, also. I've only bent one in a full-speed-sweeper accident that also broke the upper deck. I'd recommend starting with the screws first, and if you still have issues give the blocks a try.