20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
10-19-2011, 10:34 PM
#4276
PS you can use a stanley knife/blade and run it along the inside edge and it will lift off quite easily. But then you need to leave the seals off, as the seal will most likely deform after you have removed it. And it will most likely touch the inner race now, making the bearing worst off then what you started with.
10-19-2011, 10:51 PM
#4277
10-20-2011, 04:48 AM
#4278
Steering knuckles
Hi,
I've heard that some people have their steering knuckles flipped or reversed?
What are the benefits and do you need to place the ballstuds on top rather the underneath the knuckles?
thx!
I've heard that some people have their steering knuckles flipped or reversed?
What are the benefits and do you need to place the ballstuds on top rather the underneath the knuckles?
thx!
10-20-2011, 05:13 AM
#4279
If you flip the steering knuckle, you almost always flip the ballstud also. This is to adjust bump steer! Turn the wheels and compress the suspension, and notice how as the tire rises it may turn back "out" due to the pull on the steering link. Flipping knuckles and/or shimming the ballstud can correct excessive bumpsteer.
10-20-2011, 06:55 AM
#4280
If you flip the steering knuckle, you almost always flip the ballstud also. This is to adjust bump steer! Turn the wheels and compress the suspension, and notice how as the tire rises it may turn back "out" due to the pull on the steering link. Flipping knuckles and/or shimming the ballstud can correct excessive bumpsteer.
Cheers!
10-20-2011, 08:14 AM
#4282
They flip the blocks over (the way they were ran on the TC5) when they are running the 6 degree caster blocks and they run the caster blocks the way the kit comes when running 4 degrees or less caster.
Jason
Jason
10-20-2011, 03:16 PM
#4284
Also consider the front arm mounts. On my mod car I have 3A front/0B back for the front arms with 6* caster blocks. So, due to the angle of the front arms I actually have about 5* caster, which means I might need a different amount of shims compared to flat arms with 6*..... keep that in mind! 
10-20-2011, 03:54 PM
#4285
10-21-2011, 12:49 AM
#4286
Tech Regular
iTrader: (27)
Question for for the guys who run their shocks with the 1mm hole in the cap - how do you build your shocks? I'm having a hard time getting the shocks to have the same rebound with the caps drilled. I'm running on a high traction indoor asphalt track (West Coast Raceway) and I'd like to make sure my shocks are performing to their best potential. I know Rick and Steve do very well with their TC6's at WCRC, I'm trying to get my setup that good!
10-21-2011, 01:17 AM
#4287
Question for for the guys who run their shocks with the 1mm hole in the cap - how do you build your shocks? I'm having a hard time getting the shocks to have the same rebound with the caps drilled. I'm running on a high traction indoor asphalt track (West Coast Raceway) and I'd like to make sure my shocks are performing to their best potential. I know Rick and Steve do very well with their TC6's at WCRC, I'm trying to get my setup that good!
Generally, fill the shock up with oil with the piston fully extended and ensure that there aren't any air bubbles in the shock... a shock pump is very good for ensuring that you've got as much air out of the shock as possible.
Next, take the bladder and place it on top of the shock and gently press it down so that it seats into the shock... usually I make sure that there's enough oil that durring this step extra oil is displaced by the bladder.
Next, take the plastic shock cap and place it ontop of the bladder... be careful because it's pretty easy to move the bladder around by accident.
Next, carefully slide the aluminum cap over the plastic cap and the bladder and slowly screw the cap down until it's tightened completely.
This should be the easiest way to build your shocks with consistant rebound.
I generally build my shocks in a similar fashion except that before I place the bladder on top of the shock I push the shock shaft up into the shock a bit... with the way these shocks are you can't push it up all the way, so I recommend pushing it up so that there's 3 mm between the shock body and the eyelet... the rest of the proceedure is then the same!
Hope this helps!
10-21-2011, 01:59 AM
#4288
Tech Regular
iTrader: (27)
I'm pretty sure Rick builds his shocks differently than I do from what I gather from the last time I talked with him about it... but I think his method might be a little easier than mine.
Generally, fill the shock up with oil with the piston fully extended and ensure that there aren't any air bubbles in the shock... a shock pump is very good for ensuring that you've got as much air out of the shock as possible.
Next, take the bladder and place it on top of the shock and gently press it down so that it seats into the shock... usually I make sure that there's enough oil that durring this step extra oil is displaced by the bladder.
Next, take the plastic shock cap and place it ontop of the bladder... be careful because it's pretty easy to move the bladder around by accident.
Next, carefully slide the aluminum cap over the plastic cap and the bladder and slowly screw the cap down until it's tightened completely.
This should be the easiest way to build your shocks with consistant rebound.
I generally build my shocks in a similar fashion except that before I place the bladder on top of the shock I push the shock shaft up into the shock a bit... with the way these shocks are you can't push it up all the way, so I recommend pushing it up so that there's 3 mm between the shock body and the eyelet... the rest of the proceedure is then the same!
Hope this helps!
Generally, fill the shock up with oil with the piston fully extended and ensure that there aren't any air bubbles in the shock... a shock pump is very good for ensuring that you've got as much air out of the shock as possible.
Next, take the bladder and place it on top of the shock and gently press it down so that it seats into the shock... usually I make sure that there's enough oil that durring this step extra oil is displaced by the bladder.
Next, take the plastic shock cap and place it ontop of the bladder... be careful because it's pretty easy to move the bladder around by accident.
Next, carefully slide the aluminum cap over the plastic cap and the bladder and slowly screw the cap down until it's tightened completely.
This should be the easiest way to build your shocks with consistant rebound.
I generally build my shocks in a similar fashion except that before I place the bladder on top of the shock I push the shock shaft up into the shock a bit... with the way these shocks are you can't push it up all the way, so I recommend pushing it up so that there's 3 mm between the shock body and the eyelet... the rest of the proceedure is then the same!
Hope this helps!
10-21-2011, 06:01 AM
#4289
I'm pretty sure Rick builds his shocks differently than I do from what I gather from the last time I talked with him about it... but I think his method might be a little easier than mine.
Generally, fill the shock up with oil with the piston fully extended and ensure that there aren't any air bubbles in the shock... a shock pump is very good for ensuring that you've got as much air out of the shock as possible.
Next, take the bladder and place it on top of the shock and gently press it down so that it seats into the shock... usually I make sure that there's enough oil that durring this step extra oil is displaced by the bladder.
Next, take the plastic shock cap and place it ontop of the bladder... be careful because it's pretty easy to move the bladder around by accident.
Next, carefully slide the aluminum cap over the plastic cap and the bladder and slowly screw the cap down until it's tightened completely.
This should be the easiest way to build your shocks with consistant rebound.
I generally build my shocks in a similar fashion except that before I place the bladder on top of the shock I push the shock shaft up into the shock a bit... with the way these shocks are you can't push it up all the way, so I recommend pushing it up so that there's 3 mm between the shock body and the eyelet... the rest of the proceedure is then the same!
Hope this helps!
Generally, fill the shock up with oil with the piston fully extended and ensure that there aren't any air bubbles in the shock... a shock pump is very good for ensuring that you've got as much air out of the shock as possible.
Next, take the bladder and place it on top of the shock and gently press it down so that it seats into the shock... usually I make sure that there's enough oil that durring this step extra oil is displaced by the bladder.
Next, take the plastic shock cap and place it ontop of the bladder... be careful because it's pretty easy to move the bladder around by accident.
Next, carefully slide the aluminum cap over the plastic cap and the bladder and slowly screw the cap down until it's tightened completely.
This should be the easiest way to build your shocks with consistant rebound.
I generally build my shocks in a similar fashion except that before I place the bladder on top of the shock I push the shock shaft up into the shock a bit... with the way these shocks are you can't push it up all the way, so I recommend pushing it up so that there's 3 mm between the shock body and the eyelet... the rest of the proceedure is then the same!
Hope this helps!
You can also try pulling the shock shaft out after installing the bladder, this will help seat the bladder.
10-21-2011, 10:50 AM
#4290
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
What front hexes fit the TC6? Im looking for offset hexes to space the front wheels a bit.... Id prefer not to use the 1mm disc spacers.
I see that some of the factory guys are using what appears to be some sort of black plastic hex on the front. Anyone know what part this is?
I see that some of the factory guys are using what appears to be some sort of black plastic hex on the front. Anyone know what part this is?