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Old 04-03-2013, 10:35 AM
  #9061  
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Originally Posted by HollywoodRC
Thanks for the response Dog. Can you post up your website or send me a PM where I can buy one.
Thanks
Just shoot me a PM.
I'll be happy to get you set up... by the way, I have a fresh batch of mounts and cams just about finished.
I'm looking to ship this Friday.

Mounts are still $20 shipped and cams are $10 when purchased with the mount.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Team Grid RC
Maybe we can develop a mount that can utilize all the holes like we did a few years ago for the RC8e. The mount can use two and up to six mounting screws with precision spur/pinion meshing. Would that work?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ts-thread.html
I really wouldn't be candidate since I'm running brushless, however there seem to be several guys at our local club who are running in the brushed spec motor class that could stand to benefit with an improved motor mount design.

Is this what you're referring to with a traditional ring clamp motor mount:

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Old 04-03-2013, 12:08 PM
  #9063  
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That mount is for a 1/8 motor is overkill and too heavy for a 1/10 touring car.

The mount needs to weight a few grams for a touring car. We need to design something from the ground up.

Eccentric style mounts will not move in a crash and more precision when adjusting for 64 pitch.

Last edited by Team Grid RC; 04-03-2013 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:28 PM
  #9064  
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Has anybody else tried a no sway bar setup? I run on carpet without a heavy groove and for some reason my tc6 is massively more grippy with the sway bars off than it was with them. It looks funny cornering on its doorhandles but it actually corners now instead of alternating between push and oversteer.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:16 PM
  #9065  
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Originally Posted by Team Grid RC
That mount is for a 1/8 motor is overkill and too heavy for a 1/10 touring car.

The mount needs to weight a few grams for a touring car. We need to design something from the ground up.

Eccentric style mounts will not move in a crash and more precision when adjusting for 64 pitch.
One thing to consider with this type of mount is that the touring cars are sensitive to changes in C of G. It is optimal to keep the motor as low in the chassis as possible. If it rotates eccentrically the height would change as well as forward and aft. I don't think it's impossible but could be quite a challenge none the less.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:39 PM
  #9066  
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Originally Posted by YoDog
One thing to consider with this type of mount is that the touring cars are sensitive to changes in C of G. It is optimal to keep the motor as low in the chassis as possible. If it rotates eccentrically the height would change as well as forward and aft. I don't think it's impossible but could be quite a challenge none the less.
You are partially correct, eccentric style mounts may not suited for a touring car.

Although, the current fixed mount also moves the motor back and forth for meshing which itself changes the CG. What we need is a mount where the motor does not move at all and still be able to adjust the mesh.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:49 PM
  #9067  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
I've seen at least 3 local drivers have problems losing their mesh after hard hits on the track and I never got a really close look into the root of the problem until now. If the glue fails to hold up to the heat, and I experience the same issue as I've seen other drivers suffer from, then I plan to use my plastic welder which should theoretically form a reusable shim to fill the void. perhaps I could make several shims for varying mesh combinations

I've worked with Amazing Goop before and it peels away from aluminum with semi-medium effort which seems to be the appropriate product for this application. I'm not so sure a plastic shim will stay in place without a captured backing.

Hopefully the cases I've seen on the track were all isolated and had nothing to do with the design of the car but merely loose screws because the drivers didn't use any thread lock. I didn't ask each driver if they had used any thread lock or not.

My sentiments exactly, have you ran with the goop yet? How did it go?
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by KHoff7
My sentiments exactly, have you ran with the goop yet? How did it go?
I plan to race it's maiden voyage this Sunday, just painted the body last night and applying decals tonight, car is race ready.

I'll take an after pic of the Goop as well as measure the motor temps after each round of racing... 3 quals + Main... all 6 min each
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:37 AM
  #9069  
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I'll make a prediction that the motor won't move. I don't think it'll be because of the goop, however.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:22 AM
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LOL Tommy, I think the main question is whether I can keep the temps in my 5.5T motor under 150° which is the manufacturer's limit for Goop to still hold up. I originally planned to install a 3.5T motor but balked after taking a closer look at some of the cars of local mods. I plan to install a fan on the motor to help keep temps low as possible. I think that's what attracts me the most to mod classes, you can motor up and have more comfortable temps than to push a spec motor to its limits, granted I may be singing a different tune if the tires don't last as long, doh!

My current set of GT8 tires (Sweep EXP50's) have lasted 6 months of racing so far

Let's hope the Sweeps fare as well on my TC6!
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:16 PM
  #9071  
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Originally Posted by DesertRat
Has anybody else tried a no sway bar setup? I run on carpet without a heavy groove and for some reason my tc6 is massively more grippy with the sway bars off than it was with them. It looks funny cornering on its doorhandles but it actually corners now instead of alternating between push and oversteer.
Never tried running none, but using the old TC6 bars (1 piece) gives a similar effect while keeping the car flat and maintaining good corner speed.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:07 PM
  #9072  
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Hi Guys,

Sorry if this is a little off topic, but Scotty Ernst is holding an AOC championship (ala ETS) and one round is being held in my home town, Melbourne Australia. I thought I would post the link to the discussion should anyone be interested in a holiday down under.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...tty-ernst.html

http://www.aocrc.com/

Sorry for the hijack

Cheers,
Jordan
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:17 AM
  #9073  
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I ve got a Team C Setup System. Are there any hints ( links ) how to use it properly?

Thanks
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:50 AM
  #9074  
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Can somebody please point me in the right direction. Im building the 6.1 worlds and was wondering about roll center. Im looking up all the pros setup sheets for asphalt and more ilook the more confused i get. I put the 3 offset arm mounts and arms look way high,used the top holes on the bulkheads as shown in manual. Whats the lower mounting holes in the bulkhead for? Im mainly running the car on street low med traction and mainly going straight for now. Also for the best possible traction going straight would 0 toe be best? Any help apprerciated thanks
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:56 AM
  #9075  
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Originally Posted by JBorchid
Can somebody please point me in the right direction. Im building the 6.1 worlds and was wondering about roll center. Im looking up all the pros setup sheets for asphalt and more ilook the more confused i get. I put the 3b arm mounts and arms look way high,used the top holes on the bulkheads as shown in manual. Whats the lower mounting holes in the bulkhead for? Im mainly running the car on street low med traction and mainly going straight for now. Also for the best possible traction going straight would 0 toe be best? Any help apprerciated thanks
The holes on the bulkheads are designated by the A and B in relation to the 3b position you mentioned.
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