20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
12-13-2012, 12:15 AM
#8311
I have one that I got from eBay that is for a tamiya and was able to use one of the original holes and had to drill the other. I think it can be done but. I'll have to look at my chassis tomorrow.
12-13-2012, 06:27 AM
#8312
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Hi!
What to do with tc6.1 c-hubs crazy slope????
I just put before race small 3mm screw from pinion and it delete that badly slop..
But that slop back now in badly big value again ...
AE made crap
in that place
So there is option to use better C-HUB with bigger hole for double joints shafts at front????????? From another car?
What to do with tc6.1 c-hubs crazy slope????
I just put before race small 3mm screw from pinion and it delete that badly slop..
But that slop back now in badly big value again ...
AE made crap
in that place So there is option to use better C-HUB with bigger hole for double joints shafts at front????????? From another car?
12-13-2012, 08:46 AM
#8313
Sign me up! Im looking at another car too, by the way if you know anyone with a tc6 for sale let me know. Just the tc6 not the .1
12-13-2012, 10:05 AM
#8317
Hi!
What to do with tc6.1 c-hubs crazy slope????
I just put before race small 3mm screw from pinion and it delete that badly slop..
But that slop back now in badly big value again ...
AE made crap in that place
So there is option to use better C-HUB with bigger hole for double joints shafts at front????????? From another car?
What to do with tc6.1 c-hubs crazy slope????
I just put before race small 3mm screw from pinion and it delete that badly slop..
But that slop back now in badly big value again ...
AE made crap
in that place So there is option to use better C-HUB with bigger hole for double joints shafts at front????????? From another car?
Also these things break if you just look at them, because of a wrong calculated tool... I really think about using alu c-hubs. Right now I use my old tc5&6 spare parts.
12-13-2012, 11:20 AM
#8319
Hi!
What to do with tc6.1 c-hubs crazy slope????
I just put before race small 3mm screw from pinion and it delete that badly slop..
But that slop back now in badly big value again ...
AE made crap in that place
So there is option to use better C-HUB with bigger hole for double joints shafts at front????????? From another car?
What to do with tc6.1 c-hubs crazy slope????
I just put before race small 3mm screw from pinion and it delete that badly slop..
But that slop back now in badly big value again ...
AE made crap
in that place So there is option to use better C-HUB with bigger hole for double joints shafts at front????????? From another car?
I run up to 3mm of toe (3mm difference between the arm mounts, like 3.7*).. Add more rear camber or camber gain. If your at both of those already, take some front camber or camber gain out. It would be more helpful to see the rest of your setup to help
12-13-2012, 12:25 PM
#8321
Can you please post your actual setup and the kind of surface you are running on.
I for myself only know this car with a good rear and if it was to loose it was always easy to cure for example with 0.5° more camber or a little softer springs or a harder anti roll bar in front.
Only once on a low grip carpet I had problems to catch the rear into the corner and out of it with a spool in front. I then changed to a geardiff with 3000cst and the car was a dream since then (at least until the grip came up...).
I for myself only know this car with a good rear and if it was to loose it was always easy to cure for example with 0.5° more camber or a little softer springs or a harder anti roll bar in front.
Only once on a low grip carpet I had problems to catch the rear into the corner and out of it with a spool in front. I then changed to a geardiff with 3000cst and the car was a dream since then (at least until the grip came up...).
12-13-2012, 01:08 PM
#8322
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Without knowing what your current setup is, or seeing the car in action, it's hard to know what you need.
Less front toe out, if you have toe out, would help decrease turn in.
Lighter rear diff oil can help with better grip out of corners, but will also give more turn in.
Loose changing directions usually means the rear is too soft.
12-13-2012, 01:24 PM
#8323
My setup is such
Rear: 35wt shock oil, Green (12 pound, softest) spring, far inner hole on the tower and the arm, soft swaybar (white? Whichever is kit-stock), zero dot standard front arm mount, offset zero dot rear, 1-degree rear hub inserts, 3.5 degrees total rear toe, 2 degrees of camber, camber link in the inner top corner on the shock tower (no vertical mounts, just the carbon tower) with a 1mm spacer under the outer mount, 40wt oil in the diff, 5mm ride height, approx. 2mm of droop. Sweep EXP30 Kitty Rug tires with Paragon traction compound full sauce, diff at low in the chassis as it will get.
Front: 50wt shock oil, Gold (19.5 pound) front spring, zero toe, third-to-inner mount on the tower, outermost mount on the arm, yellow swaybar (again, kit stock, harder than the rear), spool, two degrees of camber, middle inner camber link position, two degree caster inserts, offset 2-dot mounts front and rear in the B hole (I think, I’m doing this from memory), 1.5mm of droop (the spring won’t allow much more), 5mm of ride height, diff in the middle high position. Half sauce on the front tires.
I run a 17.5 motor at 4.0:1 gearing, the car has decent balance and all of the screws holding the top-deck stiffness are in place.
I run on low-grip dusty carpet, the car is adamantly terrible, and the kit-stock setup with silver springs front and rear without the massive toe in was undriveable. It is getting better with each change I make to force the car into rear grip, but I don’t know how to add kickup or dive, squat or anti-squat in the process.
Is the car just a lemon or should I keep fighting? I'm not totally clueless, I know the car should have rear grip at some point, I've checked chassis tweak and every moving part on the car moves free in every dimension, but I'm at a loss here.
Rear: 35wt shock oil, Green (12 pound, softest) spring, far inner hole on the tower and the arm, soft swaybar (white? Whichever is kit-stock), zero dot standard front arm mount, offset zero dot rear, 1-degree rear hub inserts, 3.5 degrees total rear toe, 2 degrees of camber, camber link in the inner top corner on the shock tower (no vertical mounts, just the carbon tower) with a 1mm spacer under the outer mount, 40wt oil in the diff, 5mm ride height, approx. 2mm of droop. Sweep EXP30 Kitty Rug tires with Paragon traction compound full sauce, diff at low in the chassis as it will get.
Front: 50wt shock oil, Gold (19.5 pound) front spring, zero toe, third-to-inner mount on the tower, outermost mount on the arm, yellow swaybar (again, kit stock, harder than the rear), spool, two degrees of camber, middle inner camber link position, two degree caster inserts, offset 2-dot mounts front and rear in the B hole (I think, I’m doing this from memory), 1.5mm of droop (the spring won’t allow much more), 5mm of ride height, diff in the middle high position. Half sauce on the front tires.
I run a 17.5 motor at 4.0:1 gearing, the car has decent balance and all of the screws holding the top-deck stiffness are in place.
I run on low-grip dusty carpet, the car is adamantly terrible, and the kit-stock setup with silver springs front and rear without the massive toe in was undriveable. It is getting better with each change I make to force the car into rear grip, but I don’t know how to add kickup or dive, squat or anti-squat in the process.
Is the car just a lemon or should I keep fighting? I'm not totally clueless, I know the car should have rear grip at some point, I've checked chassis tweak and every moving part on the car moves free in every dimension, but I'm at a loss here.
12-13-2012, 02:22 PM
#8324
My setup is such
Rear: 35wt shock oil, Green (12 pound, softest) spring, far inner hole on the tower and the arm stand your rear shocks up to the 3rd hole on the tower, and the middle hole on the arm, soft swaybar (white? Whichever is kit-stock), zero dot standard front arm mount, offset zero dot rear, 1-degree rear hub inserts change this to 0, 3.5 degrees total rear toe add shims so you get back to 3.5 toe with 0* hubs. should be able to use a 1mm shim on the front block and a 2mm shim on the rear offset block, 2 degrees of camber, camber link in the inner top corner on the shock tower (no vertical mounts, just the carbon tower) with a 1mm spacer under the outer mountchange to as much as you cen get under the wheel. should be able to get 2.5mm with a tall BS, 40wt oil in the diff, 5mm ride height, approx. 2mm of droop. Sweep EXP30 Kitty Rug tires with Paragon traction compound full sauce, diff at low in the chassis as it will getmid low.
Front: 50wt shock oil, Gold (19.5 pound) front springAE silver, zero toe0.5* out, third-to-inner mount on the tower, outermost mount on the arm, yellow swaybar (again, kit stock, harder than the rear), spool, two degrees of camber1.5 front camber, middle inner camber link positionposition 1 on the tower, two degree caster inserts, offset 2-dot mounts front and rear in the B hole (I think, I’m doing this from memory)go to 0B OS, with a 1mm shim all around, 1.5mm of droop (the spring won’t allow much more), 5mm of ride height, diff in the middle high positionmid low. Half sauce on the front tires.
I run a 17.5 motor at 4.0:1 gearing, the car has decent balance and all of the screws holding the top-deck stiffness are in place take the 2 screws out of the layshaft bulkheads.
I run on low-grip dusty carpet, the car is adamantly terrible, and the kit-stock setup with silver springs front and rear without the massive toe in was undriveable. It is getting better with each change I make to force the car into rear grip, but I don’t know how to add kickup or dive, squat or anti-squat in the process.
Is the car just a lemon or should I keep fighting? I'm not totally clueless, I know the car should have rear grip at some point, I've checked chassis tweak and every moving part on the car moves free in every dimension, but I'm at a loss here.
Rear: 35wt shock oil, Green (12 pound, softest) spring, far inner hole on the tower and the arm stand your rear shocks up to the 3rd hole on the tower, and the middle hole on the arm, soft swaybar (white? Whichever is kit-stock), zero dot standard front arm mount, offset zero dot rear, 1-degree rear hub inserts change this to 0, 3.5 degrees total rear toe add shims so you get back to 3.5 toe with 0* hubs. should be able to use a 1mm shim on the front block and a 2mm shim on the rear offset block, 2 degrees of camber, camber link in the inner top corner on the shock tower (no vertical mounts, just the carbon tower) with a 1mm spacer under the outer mountchange to as much as you cen get under the wheel. should be able to get 2.5mm with a tall BS, 40wt oil in the diff, 5mm ride height, approx. 2mm of droop. Sweep EXP30 Kitty Rug tires with Paragon traction compound full sauce, diff at low in the chassis as it will getmid low.
Front: 50wt shock oil, Gold (19.5 pound) front springAE silver, zero toe0.5* out, third-to-inner mount on the tower, outermost mount on the arm, yellow swaybar (again, kit stock, harder than the rear), spool, two degrees of camber1.5 front camber, middle inner camber link positionposition 1 on the tower, two degree caster inserts, offset 2-dot mounts front and rear in the B hole (I think, I’m doing this from memory)go to 0B OS, with a 1mm shim all around, 1.5mm of droop (the spring won’t allow much more), 5mm of ride height, diff in the middle high positionmid low. Half sauce on the front tires.
I run a 17.5 motor at 4.0:1 gearing, the car has decent balance and all of the screws holding the top-deck stiffness are in place take the 2 screws out of the layshaft bulkheads.
I run on low-grip dusty carpet, the car is adamantly terrible, and the kit-stock setup with silver springs front and rear without the massive toe in was undriveable. It is getting better with each change I make to force the car into rear grip, but I don’t know how to add kickup or dive, squat or anti-squat in the process.
Is the car just a lemon or should I keep fighting? I'm not totally clueless, I know the car should have rear grip at some point, I've checked chassis tweak and every moving part on the car moves free in every dimension, but I'm at a loss here.
12-13-2012, 02:36 PM
#8325
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
My setup is such
Rear: 35wt shock oil, Green (12 pound, softest) spring, far inner hole on the tower and the arm, soft swaybar (white? Whichever is kit-stock), zero dot standard front arm mount, offset zero dot rear, 1-degree rear hub inserts, 3.5 degrees total rear toe, 2 degrees of camber, camber link in the inner top corner on the shock tower (no vertical mounts, just the carbon tower) with a 1mm spacer under the outer mount, 40wt oil in the diff, 5mm ride height, approx. 2mm of droop. Sweep EXP30 Kitty Rug tires with Paragon traction compound full sauce, diff at low in the chassis as it will get.
Front: 50wt shock oil, Gold (19.5 pound) front spring, zero toe, third-to-inner mount on the tower, outermost mount on the arm, yellow swaybar (again, kit stock, harder than the rear), spool, two degrees of camber, middle inner camber link position, two degree caster inserts, offset 2-dot mounts front and rear in the B hole (I think, I’m doing this from memory), 1.5mm of droop (the spring won’t allow much more), 5mm of ride height, diff in the middle high position. Half sauce on the front tires.
I run a 17.5 motor at 4.0:1 gearing, the car has decent balance and all of the screws holding the top-deck stiffness are in place.
I run on low-grip dusty carpet, the car is adamantly terrible, and the kit-stock setup with silver springs front and rear without the massive toe in was undriveable. It is getting better with each change I make to force the car into rear grip, but I don’t know how to add kickup or dive, squat or anti-squat in the process.
Is the car just a lemon or should I keep fighting? I'm not totally clueless, I know the car should have rear grip at some point, I've checked chassis tweak and every moving part on the car moves free in every dimension, but I'm at a loss here.
Rear: 35wt shock oil, Green (12 pound, softest) spring, far inner hole on the tower and the arm, soft swaybar (white? Whichever is kit-stock), zero dot standard front arm mount, offset zero dot rear, 1-degree rear hub inserts, 3.5 degrees total rear toe, 2 degrees of camber, camber link in the inner top corner on the shock tower (no vertical mounts, just the carbon tower) with a 1mm spacer under the outer mount, 40wt oil in the diff, 5mm ride height, approx. 2mm of droop. Sweep EXP30 Kitty Rug tires with Paragon traction compound full sauce, diff at low in the chassis as it will get.
Front: 50wt shock oil, Gold (19.5 pound) front spring, zero toe, third-to-inner mount on the tower, outermost mount on the arm, yellow swaybar (again, kit stock, harder than the rear), spool, two degrees of camber, middle inner camber link position, two degree caster inserts, offset 2-dot mounts front and rear in the B hole (I think, I’m doing this from memory), 1.5mm of droop (the spring won’t allow much more), 5mm of ride height, diff in the middle high position. Half sauce on the front tires.
I run a 17.5 motor at 4.0:1 gearing, the car has decent balance and all of the screws holding the top-deck stiffness are in place.
I run on low-grip dusty carpet, the car is adamantly terrible, and the kit-stock setup with silver springs front and rear without the massive toe in was undriveable. It is getting better with each change I make to force the car into rear grip, but I don’t know how to add kickup or dive, squat or anti-squat in the process.
Is the car just a lemon or should I keep fighting? I'm not totally clueless, I know the car should have rear grip at some point, I've checked chassis tweak and every moving part on the car moves free in every dimension, but I'm at a loss here.
My opinion is, your front springs are too stiff, which is why you have too much high speed turn in. Go back to the stock silver springs. Also, try 4 degree caster insert.
You also need to stiffen up the rear a bit, I also use green springs, but I use the yellow sway bar.
Are you using the A or B hole for the rear suspension mounts?
What pistons are you running front and back?