R/C Tech Forums - Team Associated TC6 Thread

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Quote:

Originally Posted by azz187 (Post 8446214)

Maybe it's just me, however i'm having a hard time trying to remove the e-clips on the spur gear shaft, so much for easy spur gear access!
My e-clips just don't want to come off.
Has anyone else found this? Any tips?

Micro screw driver. Should be able to get the blade into the E and wedge the clip out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckaroo (Post 8446303)

Micro screw driver. Should be able to get the blade into the E and wedge the clip out.

All good got it out finally, I hate e-clips!!

Better Way to Free up Ball Cups

http://www.google.com/search?q=ball+...5733a97aebfa72

Take your pick. These are made to stretch your ball ends on Helis. Much easier than making your own and very economic. Hobby King sells them for like 3 bucks. I carry one everywhere I go. Just make sure you don't over do it or you will end with over-stretched ball cups.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRXS_chris (Post 8445404)

Quality post above for the ball cup treatment! Thanks!

I've just got a Spec R diff for the Yoke, I remember someone saying what needed trimming on it but cant find the post. Anyone remember?

you have to rim the knuckles a bit so that they fit smooth into the drivershafts of the spec R diff, about 1/10mm

greetings

Quote:

Originally Posted by CristianTabush (Post 8446348)

Yes there about 100 different types of ball end reamers on the market. 2 problems arise from purchasing these. The first being there all sized just a little different so you may not get one that works well with the cups you have. By using a spare ball stud you get the right size the first time. The second thing is you have to buy it. I know most if not all of us have spare ball studs in our possesion. It litterally takes 3 seconds to use a side cutters to make the grooves in a ball stud and your ready to go.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcb22185 (Post 8440018)

is any one running the plastic outdrives with the slipper spool?

well?

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcb22185 (Post 8447153)

well?

Good luck in them lasting lol.... The spool idea is tough on the blades as it is so the plastic outdrives wont last to long at all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcb22185 (Post 8447153)

well?

Oh and what plastic outdrives are you using anyways as the tc5 ones dont fit on the tc6 so.... The tc6 parts I dont think will include plastic ones anyways.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcb22185 (Post 8447153)

well?

Slipper spool with the plastic outdrives didn't work very well in the TC5, and would be impossible with the TC6, seeing as how the outdrives are aluminum (with no plastic outdrives offered or planned) and the TC5 parts won't fit.

The past month we have been running on a carpet track with low to medium traction, and the surface temperature has been low (45 to 55 degrees). Using the 7A rear camber link with a silver ball stud and 1mm roll center spacing really helped hook up the rear end compared to Keven's Halloween setup.

Once it warms up, if your track develops a groove quickly, or at bigger races, 7A may not allow enough rotation, but in the right conditions, it's a great option.

Note that this is closer to the manual setup. Several folks were experiencing over-rotation with the short rear camber link, and 7A will help. We also have been running a little more droop and rear toe-in and unhooked the rear swaybar.

Cheers!

Does anybody have the part number to the plastic diff wing nut that the holds the actual diff nut? the manual states 31166 but that is a tc5 diff rebuild with rings and all and doesn't seem to even have the plastic piece.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Bosley (Post 8450031)

You can use AE#6575 in place of the TC5/6 part. This is what most team guys use as it locks the spool/diff better and is easier to get. That part is from the B4/T4 diff so it should be easy to find in most hobby shops.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tqcookie (Post 8443261)

Ok, I am going to atempt to help any one who is having troubles with your
TC6 ball cups.

I was taught a long time ago when I got into Helis is there is a right way to install ball cups of this type. There is one side that is different from the other. The side with the numbers on them is molded differently than the other side. The side with the numbers has a larger opening and needs to be placed so the numbers face the ball you are snappiong them on to.

In these pictures you can see the difference in the two sides.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0613.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0612.jpg

Another thing I learned when I got into helis is a neat way to perfectly size a tight ball cup. Squeezing a ball cup works in a pinch but alot of times isn't a permanent fix. What I am going to show you is not only easy but will make the cups fit perfectly.

1st take a spare ball of the proper size. Not all balls are the same. LOL:ha: Take a side cutter grab and squeeze the ball stud two different times 90* apart.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0614.jpg

Squezze pretty hard as you ar trying to cut into the ballstud. You should now have 4 cuts 90* apart.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0623.jpg

Once you have done this, click the ballstud into your favorite drill.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0626.jpg

Pop a ball cup onto the ballstud and spin the drill for a few seconds.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0627.jpg

Different drills spin at different speeds so it will take a couple of times to figure how much you will need. Also some cups will be tighter than others. So take your time. After you spin it for a few seconds check it on the car. If it is still tight do it again until it is perfect. I usually get all my tierods setup first then size them as needed. It also makes it easier to hold. Once you get a feel for how long to spin the drill it will go really fast.

I hope this will help those of you having trouble with the fit of your ball cups. Also those of you who think yours are pretty good, give it a shot. I think every one will soon see that AE didn't make a mistake with their molds. They made very good cups that with a little TLC fit absolutely perfect.

Thank you Cookie! Excellent post!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Bosley (Post 8450031)

I've been looking for the same part, I don't think they have released it yet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckaroo (Post 8441647)

Got my TC6 kit today! The Big Brown Truck just dropped it off.

Guess what? Yup, one of the bulkheads has the now classic oversize hole with no threads! That's a fraternity I didn't want to join. Gonna have to give AE a call tomorrow first thing.

I'm probably going to go ahead and assemble all of the other sub assemblies, just to make sure nothing else is missing!

OK, called Associated, and the service rep said that they had 4 or 5 other reports of bad bulkheads like mine, according to his computer. He's sending out a new part and a SASE for the old one back! Pretty cool.

I went ahead and put the rest of the car together. Everything else was there, algthough I swapped out some of the arm mount bushing hardware for longer stuff. I'm not satisfied unless I have full thread engagement through the bulkhead with the shims that I'm using. Did the same thing with the TC5, and it made a huge difference to crash survivability.

I also sub'd in some ceramic diff and thrust bearing balls (thanks MurffDog motors). Using the tqcookie ball scrubbing method and orienting the numbers correctly towards the ball, I was able to loosen up the ball ends pretty good, at least good enough for a first run when my replacement bulkhead comes in. A 78 tooth standard Kimbrough spur fit fine, and allows the use of the bottom and front mount holes. The pinion seems to fit and engage better with the stem away from the motor vice against the motor. Actually makes it easier to get to the set screw, too.

On another positive note, I'm mega pleased to note that the steering bellcrank has NO play in the bearings or the bellcrank tube. The TC5 is terrible for slop in this area, even with brand new parts and shimming and using locktite on the outer bearing races, but the TC6 is nice and slop free!

Test fit with the TOP velcro strap is a 100% good to go! Although I'm going to buy another inner lipo brace and mount one front and rear for extra insurance to keep the battery out of the belt.

Now, just waiting on Associated for my bulkhead and Tekin for my RS. :nod: