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Originally Posted by TJames987
(Post 8436447)
I just attached all of the camber links to the chassis and everything is bound up so tight it can hardly move.
For the pros out there how do you free this thing up? :cry::cry::cry: |
I hope the 2nd batch is issue free:rolleyes:
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
(Post 8442862)
I hope the 2nd batch is issue free:rolleyes:
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Originally Posted by M3dreamin2008
(Post 8442725)
I think you did something wrong. You didn't spray the car with WD40 again?:lol:
need to pop them off a few time s to streach the plastic, or take it out for a few runs, it will lossen up then ed |
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
(Post 8442896)
Mine from the first batch was fine man. Went together with no issues:D All parts were there
ed |
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
(Post 8442896)
Mine from the first batch was fine man. Went together with no issues:D All parts were there
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mine went together with almost no issues. the ball cups were a little tight. there a cup that if you pinch them with a plires will loosen up. mine didnt as much as i wanted. so i took a old ball stud made a small groove in it. and put it in the dremel at real low rpm. worked great.
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TC6 Ball Cups
Ok, I am going to atempt to help any one who is having troubles with your
TC6 ball cups. I was taught a long time ago when I got into Helis is there is a right way to install ball cups of this type. There is one side that is different from the other. The side with the numbers on them is molded differently than the other side. The side with the numbers has a larger opening and needs to be placed so the numbers face the ball you are snappiong them on to. In these pictures you can see the difference in the two sides. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0613.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0612.jpg Another thing I learned when I got into helis is a neat way to perfectly size a tight ball cup. Squeezing a ball cup works in a pinch but alot of times isn't a permanent fix. What I am going to show you is not only easy but will make the cups fit perfectly. 1st take a spare ball of the proper size. Not all balls are the same. LOL:ha: Take a side cutter grab and squeeze the ball stud two different times 90* apart. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0614.jpg Squezze pretty hard as you ar trying to cut into the ballstud. You should now have 4 cuts 90* apart. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0623.jpg Once you have done this, click the ballstud into your favorite drill. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0626.jpg Pop a ball cup onto the ballstud and spin the drill for a few seconds. http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/IMG_0627.jpg Different drills spin at different speeds so it will take a couple of times to figure how much you will need. Also some cups will be tighter than others. So take your time. After you spin it for a few seconds check it on the car. If it is still tight do it again until it is perfect. I usually get all my tierods setup first then size them as needed. It also makes it easier to hold. Once you get a feel for how long to spin the drill it will go really fast. I hope this will help those of you having trouble with the fit of your ball cups. Also those of you who think yours are pretty good, give it a shot. I think every one will soon see that AE didn't make a mistake with their molds. They made very good cups that with a little TLC fit absolutely perfect. |
Wow, good post tqcookie! I'll be giving this a shot for sure.
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Learn something everyday on this site.
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TQCooky u the man!!!!! Thanks.
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mine was issue free, too / first batch
but one thing to notice: what shells are u us guys useing on your tc´s. in europe we are mostly useing the Protoform Mazda Speed6 or LTC-R HB Mazda MPS and for this shells, the front Body Stand is way to short (have to put about 4mm unter it) :nod: I love this car greetings |
Foam setup
Ok after many sets of tires and quite a few different tries.. I have a base setup.. very drivable has great feel and is close to how the tc5 was feelig though this car is entirely a different animal then the 5.
From here I start working tire combos.. this is really good with Jaco Douple pink/orange double pink.. works well with crc magenta magenta also heavy ca front edge.. or double pink, double pink heavy ca front edge.. Tires start 56mm.. RD ht 4.3 Also note we have spec/r gear diffs around the car with 1000 wt in them. Track high bite carpet front shock oil 50- wt, piston #3 tower #4, arm B spring purple. Anti dive front mt 0B- 1.5mm spacer... rear mt 1B 1.5mm Arm mounted to rear bifg shim in front small in rear Camber link #4 Steering A 1mm bump steer spacer on arm Servo saver #7B Front diff mounted high droop 5 Rear Shock oil 30- wt, piston #3 tower 5, arm b Spring blue pro Squat front mount 1B 1mm spacer rear mt 2B 2, & 1mm spacer .5deg rear hub ball on hub 1mm spacer inner hole(A) Camber link "5 Arm mounted to rear, large spacer in front Diff mounted high Droop 4 Just a start I am sure I will refine more. |
Quality post above for the ball cup treatment! Thanks!
I've just got a Spec R diff for the Yoke, I remember someone saying what needed trimming on it but cant find the post. Anyone remember? |
E-clips
Maybe it's just me, however i'm having a hard time trying to remove the e-clips on the spur gear shaft, so much for easy spur gear access!
My e-clips just don't want to come off. Has anyone else found this? Any tips? |
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