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Originally Posted by YoDog
(Post 12823602)
Shim at the arms to get the desired track width but you can use wheel shims to test and fine tune. In the front, use the offset blocks and add up to 1.5mm if needed. In the rear, use the offset blocks for the back mount and the standard block for the forward mount. You can add up to 1mm here as well.
When at all possible, shim the arms and use the wheel spacers only for a quick adjustment at a race event. IMO |
Originally Posted by rc car guy
(Post 12823659)
makes sense but why do you say the measurements is that what makes the car 190 mm?
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Originally Posted by YoDog
(Post 12824093)
Typically I don't run the maximum width. I usually only change the front track width to adjust the characteristics of the car depending on traction levels.
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The difference in feel should be more obvious if you only shim the front or the rear axle. If you shim both, the car should look and feel faster and more agile without having a speed change greater than 50 thousands a lap (my experience).
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Originally Posted by rc car guy
(Post 12824312)
I should be able to notice a 2mm difference correct? I put a mm shim on each axle and didnt really notice much
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I just got a 6.1 wc and I was wondering is there any good starting point when tuning for 17.5 Blinky
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What are you all using for wheel shims? just spacers or do they have a hex shaped spacer?
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Wheel shims not being a smart @$$ but thats what they are called I think we got them from rsd I just tried those on the actual axil as a quick adjustment to see what it did id use smaller metalic ones if I were tobuse them on them bulkhead with the toe blocks
So your saying that if I shim out my entire car 1mm per side itll go faster because its nimbler? |
Originally Posted by HaRdWiReD
(Post 12825906)
I just got a 6.1 wc and I was wondering is there any good starting point when tuning for 17.5 Blinky
This set up seems to work on carpet and asphalt for me...with little changes here any there depending on track condition and layout.. Ride height..Front 5 rear 5.2 Camber.........front 1.5 rear 2m Toe.................front 1 rear 3 Caster...........front 4 rear 0 Shock position front 2a rear 3a Camber link..front v2 rear v2 Inn ball and shims..front blk1m for carpet...blk no shim for asphalt.. rear blk none Outer ball &shims..front silver 1m rear silver 2m Fwd arm mount front...3a+1.5mshims rear 0b offset Rwd arm mounts front..0b rear 0b offset Droop front 6 rear 5 Roll bar..front yellow rear white Oil...front 37.1/2 rear 35 Piston..3 hole Rebound 50% Springs....front ae silver rear ae silver Spool or gear diff up to you Rear diff...1k |
Originally Posted by rc car guy
(Post 12826296)
Wheel shims not being a smart @$$ but thats what they are called I think we got them from rsd I just tried those on the actual axil as a quick adjustment to see what it did id use smaller metalic ones if I were tobuse them on them bulkhead with the toe blocks
So your saying that if I shim out my entire car 1mm per side itll go faster because its nimbler? Making the car wider does not make it more nimble. Wide front track vs rear will increase lateral grip/increase steering. Making the front narrower vs rear will take some steering away/less lateral grip. Track width will also change roll center so take that into account when changing width. A wide track lowers roll center and narrow raises roll center. This is the primary reason I make the car wider for carpet because you want a low roll center in high traction conditions to avoid rolling over in the turns. I know this may sound counter intuitive but it does work. |
Originally Posted by OfnaJoe
(Post 12826004)
What are you all using for wheel shims? just spacers or do they have a hex shaped spacer?
They are usually round Washer-like in various thickness. Most people don't go any thicker than 1.5mm because it will reduce contact area from the wheel to the hex hub and thread length on the axle. |
Originally Posted by YoDog
(Post 12827225)
Several companies make wheel spacers/shims. TOP, Spec-R, 3Racing Etc.
They are usually round Washer-like in various thickness. Most people don't go any thicker than 1.5mm because it will reduce contact area from the wheel to the hex hub and thread length on the axle. |
Originally Posted by rc car guy
(Post 12828188)
which is why the guy said you could do it on the arm mounts but i dont know how many of those plastics shims you can put inbetween the arms and the bulkhead before it becomes unstable maybe 2mm worth you might have to use a longer screw im talking about the toe block shims i have a whole bunch and they are in a good size for it or an oval shaped one with the hole on one end
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Thanks alot Johnson. Much appreciated
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This might be a little off topic but is there any recommendations for electronics. I'm broke trying to build this car lol. I got lucky and Ron Schuur is hooking me up with a fresh motor for Blinky. What kinda esc can I get at a decent price that's roar legal and has a program card system. And how about a servo? And last but not least I know battery will hit the pockets but everyone at my track runs roar legal 7000nah 100c. Any suggestions? This is literally my first car build and could use any help. And Johnson I'm starting out with the set up you recommend thanks again.
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