Oh sweet!!! I have broken 2 right side ones within 2 weeks on the same lower spot by the arm. I let my friend drive it and he rub the pipes down the straight and broke, not hit or crash just a rub. 2 weeks ago I took my eyes off my car and hit the curb with the left side, but the damn right side broke??? Wtf :lol:

I have not broken the car is a year since I got it new, but I ordered the hard ones from tq so hopefully lightly hits will survive with them.
Thanks for the link

This does not make much sense, can you elaborate? You mean you are running an offset mount in FF and standard in FR? If this is the case, you are running too much arm sweep and the car would be far too narrow.

Typically I run offset mounts FF/FR with a 1mm shim behind the FF and 0.5mm behind the FR mount. You should not have any binding like this.

We will be releasing a narrower axle soon for the DCJ's, these will allow for better fitment through the caster block and also will move the bone pin 1mm further out. This will allow narrower car settings.

I have #3 standard mount on the front of the arm, and #3 offset mount on the rear of the arm. I have 2mm aluminum spacers between the arm and aluminum transmission mount. I am also running a 2mm spacer on the front of the arm between the side of the arm and mount to pickup the slack, and a .5mm shim on the back. i know this is confusing but hope this makes sence.

This sounds strange. I have the offsetmount on my front arm mount and the standard one on the rear one and have no binding issues with the slipper spool (aluminium outdrives).
If you use the offset mounts and/or standard mounts with 2mm shims you should have no problems at all, even with the TC6.1 spool outdrives...

Don't worry the car will behave good with a wider front.

Makes absolutely no sense. Please lay off the Guinness while we try to solve this ;)

Let's do this, let's clean up your terminology.

The Furthest forward mounts on a car are FF.
The Rear Mounts in the front of the car are FR.
The transmission mount is called the "bulkhead"

Which suspension mount are you running in the FF position? How many shims In between the mount and the bulkhead?
Which suspension mount are you running in the FR position? How many shims in between the mount and the bulkhead?

Everything else is irrelevant to the setting of the DCJ.

Lastly, just to make sure, you are trying to use these in the front, correct?

The slipper spool has more plunge than the regular spool. These DCJ's were designed for the TC6, not the 6.1. The new versions will work a bit better on the 6.1, but won't work on the 6 steering hubs.

A picture is worth a thousand incoherent descriptions....:lol:

Don't you agree?

I had no problem fitting them in my 6.1 with the offset mounts and no additional shims. I couldn't use the 4mm hubs however. The ribs on the inner wheel rubbed. I probably want to keep it wider in the front anyway.

yes, with the 4.0mm hexes, the arms must be shaved when used with some wheels. I always shave my 6.1 Arms before I install them. My bet is that when they designed the new arms, they did not test smaller wheels like the muchmore's on the car. If they are not shaved they rub pretty badly on the ribs at the bottom of the arms. I shave those completely off, being careful to leave them perfectly flat. This helps setting tweak easier.

Coming from a 6 year break in onroad racing, the 6.1 worked great for me at a race last weekend. The car was already upgraded to vertical ball studs, and I have a Worlds Class chassis on the way.

The car was very easy to learn, and I expect to get it dialed by the next race. That being said, I was told it has the stock slippesr spool, and that I need to change the rear diff (apparently it is not the stock one). Also on my list of parts to order:
Airtronics m12
Faster servo (what is the slim futaba one people use?)
Reflex shock bladders
Fan mount with fans
More A arms

Maybe you or someone else mixed up the numbers?

TC6: slipper spool & ball diff
TC6.1: spool with plastic outdrives & gear diff

I prefer a mix from both: Slipper spool to spare the drive train (saves you blades, outdrives and axles) and a gear diff in the rear (I am just lazy).

ok, I think I'm driving Cristian nuts lol, ok here are some pictures, hopefully this will clear things up

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...ps64a643ad.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...ps5d5a639d.jpg

Seems like you are running too much arm toe in. Typically you want arm toe out (sweep).

If you kept the same relation before, except sans- 2mm shims, then the car was set too narrow in the FF mount.

Personal suggestion, take the 2mm shim out from in between the FR mount and the bulkhead. Use a 0.5mm shim instead. In the FF add 1.0 mm of shimming more in between the arm and bulkhead (for a total of 3mm). You should not have any more binding issues and will have a much better front end geometry.

Hi... Beyongthepack..

Just wondering... U r using servo mount from reflexracing??
Can u show some pic of bottom chassis where u drilled the holes to install it??
Mayb also some pic of top view (take out the top deck).

Hopebi am not asking too much...

No problem. I'll try to tonight