It is quite a lot of stuff to buy to "upgrade" the car to a TC6.1. Even if you only want to use the new suspension parts. As owner of both versions (and the Worlds stuff tomorrow) I wouldn't recommend the purchase if it is not for other reasons than racing. The TC6.1 parts are OK and fast, but don't make the car faster. The old parts work fine and seem to offer a little more setup options.

Sorry, I dont understand what to do; it is possible to have a photo?
Thks
Enrico

You have to dremel out a little bit of plastic from the suspension arm where the shock
spring cup touches the arm (it's that black thing that holdes spring at the bottom), btw. good idea!

Tc6 worlds car! Woot!

What is the deal with the "Total Toe" specification on the setup sheet?
It seems that the rear end has about .5 of toe built in, is that right?

So if I used the same FWD arm mount as the RWD and no shims then I would have .5 total toe in the rear end?

If I have the same FWD and RWD blocks in the rear then add 1mm shim to each RWD then I would have 1.5 total toe in the rear. Is this 1.5 degrees?

Why is it called total toe? It appears that its a per side total rather than a combined total. Like I would expect 1.5 degrees per side to be 3 degrees total toe.

If you use the same blocks front and rear, you get 0 degrees, so long as you build your hubs with 0 degree inserts.

With the car, each 0.8mm equals roughly 1 degree of toe. So if your car is 2mm wider in the rear than the front, your car has about 2.5 degrees of rear toe.

Oh I see. I didnt actually build the car so I failed to notice those inserts. I knew the fronts had them but never bothered to check the rear.

Most all of the setup sheets I see list the FRW mount shim and the RWD mount shim and I just subtract the rear from the front and get a total. For example if I have 3mm at the RWD and .5mm at the FWD mount then I have net 2.5mm.

If I want to know my total toe in degrees then I can add about 20% to that number making my total toe about 3 degrees.

But it still is a per side figure? Not a total of both sides.

Thanks for the info. It's good to know that just the axle is enough for the CVAs update, since they are the most expensive parts.

Responding to WTCC, I am racing with my TC6 at the moment. The only reason I am trying to update the suspension is for potentially more corner speed. I was informed that the TC6.1 has more steering so I assume that's from the new steering blocks and the new suspension geometry.

However, you don't seem to find the TC6.1 faster than your TC6. Now I might reconsider the update.

Cristian,

I have the RSD bladders, pistons, and spring set for the TC6.1 shocks. What oil and spring combo would be a good starting point for medium traction bumpy carpet? What rebound would be best?

Also should I drill the shock caps with a 1mm hole or not?

Which wheels/tires do you guys run in an outdoor 17.5 class?

Im excited, I just ordered my worlds chasis and should have it on Monday :D

But i have just recently moved from blinky (21.5) to mod (4.5) so im still learning and will probably leave the old chassis in until i have it more under control, and i am a little more on the pace. Give me another couple of months.

Beth.

I like Sorex. Cost a bit more but very grippy and durable. Depending on grip and heat. 32r or 36r

Other brands to try, Sweep, Solaris.

"Total toe" refers to hubs plus arm sweep. Not Left plus right.

Thks for the tip.
Enry

Russ, checkout the Mike's Hobbyshop set-up from the website. That has been my favorite. Yes, it is for the RSD6, but it should transfer over nicely. Mike's is medium grip and bumpy.

In the shocks, I have been running 3x1.1 pistons lately, but you can use the 1,1,1.5's and just run 50-100 cst higher.

I always run drilled shock caps with zero rebound.