Thank you for the input!

Just got my sixer all put together and it is a beauty. Just looking to see if anyone has a set-up for USVTA on here.

Not likely. Sorry!

[QUOTE=bertottius;11158038]Just got my sixer all put together and it is a beauty. Just looking to see if anyone has a set-up for USVTA on here.[/QUOTEPost this question on the sjccr2012 thread there's a few guys that run the 6.1 in the vintage class.

Maybe someone can help me out here! So I noticed after each race day the "blades" that go over the CVA pin into the spool shear off for some reason. Im thinking something on my car is causing this problem since there are other who run the same platform and never seem to have the problem im describing.

On the left CVA joint it sheared the blade and is now lodged/fused into the spool outdrive, if that makes sense?

Thanks in advance!

Does annybody knows if a tc6.2 is planed with the last evolutions seen on the car ( new chassis, Bearing caps...)

One of the reasons for a blade is to take most of the impact forces away from the metal parts. When using a spool, expect to go through blades quite often. If I hit something out there on the track, I check the blades for damage. When running modified, most guys will check the front blades after each run...since the extra power means more blade wear.

Oh okay, so its pretty common they break?

A few of us found that if your using the plastic 6.1 spool cups and break a blade you need to sometimes replace the cups aswell. It tears up the inside and will constantly break blades after that point.

Also look in to the Reflex Racing spool cups, I always tell people that is one of the best upgrades for the car. Me and another racer at our track started running these a few months ago and we havent broken blade since. I'm not saying it cant happen but it helps the problem significantly.

The blades will wear out eventually, but it really comes down to how much stuff you hit. The more you crash, the more broken blades. The upside is that the blades make the CVA's and other drive train parts last much longer.

Stock setup is a good place to start.

Congratulations on your win Rick, and thank you very much for your setup. Thanks to it and the Reflex parts I had a major leap in my performance!!! I got back this year to racing in TC mod after owning a couple of other TC cars and doing a couple of races when I was a kid and only after 4 races I got from the back of the B-main to my first podium at a national race here in Portugal :D

I had a more or less balanced setup, but the car was slow, so I basically just changed the whole car around and tried to replicate Ricks nat's setup with what I had at hand, and boy did it work... I had the fastest car on fresh tyres, it was so fast, consistent and easy to drive that it was like an r/c nirvana moment I had there.. the problem is that I was losing around 0.7s per lap from fresh tyres to the second run :cry:

Anyway,air temp was around 33º (92 F for you guys ;)) and the track was medium/medium-low grip and I used Ricks setup with the following changes:

- RSD Red spring in the front
- RSD Blue spring in the rear
- RSD piston (1 1 1,5)
- Old shock towers with front camberlink in position 5 and rear 5 (I changed to 3 when running new tyres for the car to rotate better)
- 1mm shim in the rear RWD arm mout (around 3.5/4 º of toe in i think)
- Front wheelbase shortened (2mm spacer in front of the suspension arm)

Now my problem... we run LRP 30X as a control tire, and altough my car was balistic when compared to the competition on new tires, I was still lacking performance on the second run on the same tires.
For tire prep I was putting mr33 aditive at 70º with plastic wrap for around 15 minutes and then letting it cool down and clean with brake cleaner.

Now for what I think is wrong with this setup... for once, too much rear toe. Next the oil/spring combo. I have no idea if It can be improved or not :weird: The car is balanced, but maybe there is more grip there just waiting for me to find a way to harness it :sneaky: Finally, tire prep... damn, that second pack on the tires just sucks (to be honest, it was more or less competitive, but after having hands down the fastest car in the first final, you prety much wan't to keep doing it all day long with old or new tires!! :D). Either way my setup is either killing the tires too fast, or maybe it's the tire prep I dunno. Any help and tips are very much appreciated. Rick, Cristian, guys.. input needed you can PM me your secrets :smile:

I've set the bar too high for myself for the next race which is in around a month and definately don't wan't to disappoint myself!!!! :D

Alberto, why are you lacking pace? Is the car losing steering? Are the tires wearing out too much? Are they too soft?

I think a lot has to do with your tire prep. Especially with such a large drop. Which types of additives are allowed?

If your tires are getting hot, you can always increase the oil weight in the shocks and soften the springs for subsequent runs. 30's are pretty soft for such hot weather, so the heavier oil with lighter springs will help with tire overheating. This will always be a challenge with the tires, until the temps go down. I think that maybe a softer spring set-up with the heavier oil and less droop will help you be easier on tires and you will maybe be able to get a little extra grip. This approach is what is typically used when control tires are too soft.

Your toe should be within 3-3.7 degrees most of the time. More rear toe will however make your tires wear harder.

When tires wear, they usually steer less for me. What typically would work for me with the tc6 was to start at the 7b ackerman position on the first run and after that I would go to 7c to increase the lost steering after that first run. This adjustment would typically help me get about 1/2 the time that i would lose from the tires not being new anymore.

on setup sheet... BH screws removed from top deck? are these the 2 button head screws in that go in by spur?

Those are the ones. Pretty common mod, allows a little more chassis flex