R/C Tech Forums - Team Associated TC6 Thread

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What's the proper way to put castor in the front end? Is it done at the hub?

Hey Cristian, thanks for your help, you are a hard man to reach this days :D Hope everything is well with you and your family.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CristianTabush (Post 11169111)

Alberto, why are you lacking pace? Is the car losing steering? Are the tires wearing out too much? Are they too soft?

I think a lot has to do with your tire prep. Especially with such a large drop. Which types of additives are allowed?

Tires might be to soft, but the the LRP 30X is the spec tyre for the whole season. What I feel is a general lack of grip. On the second pack, off power on corner insertion the car sort of slides on all 4 wheels, but this is OK and manageable, where I'm really loosing time is traction coming out of the corners. I have to be really careful not to get the rear end out. The car is more or less balanced, what it lacks is rear traction I guess...

As for additives, we can only use odorless ones. :rolleyes: What would you try regarding tyre prep under these conditions?

Quote:

If your tires are getting hot, you can always increase the oil weight in the shocks and soften the springs for subsequent runs. 30's are pretty soft for such hot weather, so the heavier oil with lighter springs will help with tire overheating. This will always be a challenge with the tires, until the temps go down. I think that maybe a softer spring set-up with the heavier oil and less droop will help you be easier on tires and you will maybe be able to get a little extra grip. This approach is what is typically used when control tires are too soft.

Your toe should be within 3-3.7 degrees most of the time. More rear toe will however make your tires wear harder.

I will have that in mind next time I go practice... I will try and change only the rear, and then balance the front accordingly.

Quote:

When tires wear, they usually steer less for me. What typically would work for me with the tc6 was to start at the 7b ackerman position on the first run and after that I would go to 7c to increase the lost steering after that first run. This adjustment would typically help me get about 1/2 the time that i would lose from the tires not being new anymore.

This was the behavior I was having with my previous setup's, in case you remember I was contemplating a front diff to get more steering. And the ackerman tip I had already used it before with good results ;). Back then I would completly ruin the front tires in the first run, and then I had to deal with understeer, but with this new setup the tires look like they are wearing very evenly.

Tips for tyre prep for the LRP 30X anyone? :D

Email @ [email protected] is the best way to reach me, or PM on the forums here. It is a bit hectic around here these days, but I can't complain. Say hi to your brother for me as well.

On tire prep, I would maybe reverse the process. Start by cleaning the tires first and then cook in the additive at 65 degrees for about 20 minutes. The tires should dry in the amount of time. Try an oil based additive like LG2 or Sweep Racing X3.

To me it sounds like your car might be too stiff overall. I would go down 1 rate all around. This will prevent so much tire deterioration in the first run and it will also give you more forward bite.

Last thing, what oil is in your rear diff?

Hey i just wanted to thank you Christian for your help! my car is loving the high roll center and short camber links now im just fine tuning and pushing for a tiny bit more speed.

Hi again Cristian... my bad for not properly explaining my tyre prep. I'm cleaning the tyre before applying the sauce and cleaning after because they still come out oily and don't have time do dry. Maybe I have to switch from plastic wrap to paper towels?

And for rear diff oil, I was using 600cst.

just wipe off the additive with a towel or some paper before you put the car on the track
I use 20min with mr33 then 10min with g5000 with warmers at 60*

Try 2000cst in the rear diff :)

Thanks Fjeld!

Don't wrap the tires, just sauce and warmers. That way a little air can get in there and it can partly evaporate. Yes, just wiping with a towel, will suffice.

And also, go up in CST to 1200 and then try 2000. The heavier rear oil will give you more forward bite as the car will not diff out. I switch out between 1200 and 2000 all the time. The hotter the air temp, the heavier the diff oil.

Matt, you are welcome.

Hi guys,

I've been reading this thread for a while since I bought a second-hand TC6. I've gone ahead and bought an Associated rear gear diff and spool.

I'm trying to figure out what's a good starting point for the rear gear diff? I'll be running on carpet, low to medium grip. Is 1000 Cst too low as a starting point, do you think? I want to work up to getting the rear loose rather than having it loose to begin with, if you get what I mean. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe_Keaveney (Post 11180036)

40wt shock oil (500cst) should be a good starting point for those conditions. Be sure to get it really full! If you get any seepage coming out of the gear tooth area, its just residual from the build. Im happy to say this diff does not leak!

Thanks for that, Sean. I'll start with that and go from there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stitchy (Post 11185620)

Just got the new RC9394 TC6/.1 DCJs in:)

Body stiffeners too:

http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2213

http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2214

Is it a straight drop in or do we have to do modifications to the hubs

I am thinking about getting back into onroad and I am leaning towards the tc6.1. Are there any parts I should order for spares? what are the weak spots on the car? or anything you might recommend for upgrades? any help would be great.

Can someone tell me what spur gear(s) the TC 6.1 FT kit comes with?

Does it come with any pinions?