Chocula

iTrader: (5)

Novak recommends a final drive ratio of 3.5:1 for a 25.5 motor.

Since the TC6.1 has an internal drive ratio of 2.0:1, you will need a spur to pinion ratio of 1.75:1 to reach a final drive ratio of 3.5:1. This approximately translates to a 50 tooth pinion if you are using an 87 tooth spur. The next potential complication is physically fitting them into the car.

This is just a starting point, you still need to monitor the temperature of your motor to make sure it does not get too hot.

-Chocula

JesusFreak

iTrader: (2)

OK, so I may need to change out the spur gear to get a workable combination. What are you guys running for VTA? You said I should aim for 3.5, but at the track today, they said I should not go any lower then 4.2. I think we set my son's TC4 up to get right around 4.

Thanks for any and all advice. This is all new for me.

Cheers!

R Doyel

iTrader: (14)

I use 64 pitch gears, and run 17.5 and 13.5 touring car. I've been running a 96 tooth spur and have had good luck getting gear ratios in this range to fit just fine. If you do change to this..... 46 teeth will get you 4.17 FDR, and 45 will get you 4.27.

I hope this helps.

Chocula

iTrader: (5)

Every track is different so 4.2 might be a better place to start, especially if your track does not have many high speed sections. The temperature of your motor (and ESC) is a limiting factor for gearing, but not necessarily what will be best for a specific track. I am assuming you are in blinky mode for VTA, if your track allows timing, you would want a much higher final drive ratio. I am also assuming that your motor is at the factory default mechanical timing.

How is your son's motor temperature, does the car have enough top end? His TC4 should react similar to your TC6.1 as far as gearing is concerned.


-Chocula

trigger

iTrader: (15)

Hey guys, just wondering something. I am using the 6.1 offset suspension mounts. Compared to the original suspension mounts, how many millimeters of offset are they?

S_fender

2 mm

JesusFreak

iTrader: (2)

My Son's TC4 is running a little over 160. He has enough speed to be competitive. I wasn't sure if they number they were giving me were part of the rules, or just a general recommendation. I get different stories from different folks, which is what makes it a bit of a challenge.

So at this point, I may need to change out the spur gear according to some folks here, in order to get a pinion that will fit and still get me a high enough final drive ratio.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

Thought Id share my mod setup from this past weekend's cash race at Jackson RC. TQd and won Mod. You can find the setup here

JesusFreak

iTrader: (2)

Guys, what size are the ball links used for the Servo steering arm on the servo?

What size servo arm (or part# for the TA part) is required. My TC6.1 was purchased pre-owned and did not come with the servo arm and ball.

Thanks!

JesusFreak

iTrader: (2)

Another question, patience with the nube please! ;-) What's the fastest way to change the main spur gear as far as dis-assembly? I tried just pulling the two screws that hold the spur gear to the frame and lifting out the spur assembly. But there is too much tension on the belts. The local guys were telling me the TC6 was so easy to switch the spurs on compared to the TC4, but honestly, it looks like I have to disassemble the entire back end to get this out nice, unless there is some short-cut trick.

Thanks again!

R Doyel

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for posting this.

Can you explain how you came to your droop setting? It seems like there are many different ways to check it, and I haven't found one that seems to work for me, yet.

Thanks in advance

JesusFreak

iTrader: (2)

Hey guy, figured this one out, wasn't too bad except those dang C clips and there's no shortcut on those.

I just need to know the size of the balls for the servo arm. Are all the balls the same size on these kits?

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

I like to measure the travel over ride height. I set the ride height, then pick the car up to the point where the droop screws hit (the tires just start to leave the board), and measure the height there, and the difference is the travel over ride height. I like to do this, because 2mm over ride height is always 2mm over ride height. If you change arm mounts, then the # on droop blocks will change to have the same travel over ride height. I check to make sure the tires leave the ground at the same time by rocking the chassis on the board and seeing which one leaves first and adjusting (learned this from Keven )After you do this for a while, you can get a "feel" for how much droop you have without having to measure

R Doyel

iTrader: (14)

Thank you! What kind of tool do you use to do this?? A small metric ruler?
I guess when I've seen people talk about measuring uptravel, this is what they're reffering to??

Greatly appreciated.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

Just use your ride height gauge. Depending on what terminology you use, droop and uptravel can be interchangeable words