20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
06-17-2012, 12:58 PM
#6976
esc
guys just got a tc6.1 what is the best esc and motor to run in a 17.5 class
06-17-2012, 06:01 PM
#6977
Will Team Associated be bringing out any new parts for the TC6.1 before or after the worlds?
Double Cardan Front Unis?? (Still having to run Tamiya or Spec R)
Decent front out drives like the Yokomo Steel ones? (Plastic ones break in mod way to easily)
Better softer bladders and o-rings for the shocks like the Reflex Parts? (Standard are like plastic)
Better blocks to hold the arms like the PPD Dail-a-grips? (Standard move without touching anything!)
Rid of the plastic inserts all over the car. They are a great idea but unless you glue them in they have a ridiculas amount of slop so no point. Either the inserts should be made of something harder like Delrin or maybe just go back to standard parts with one setting (especially on the c-hubs and rear hubs)
Such a great car but needs so many other brands of parts to bring it up the standard needed to be competitive in modified.
Surely Juho and Kevin are voicing these same concerns?
Cheers!
Double Cardan Front Unis?? (Still having to run Tamiya or Spec R)
Decent front out drives like the Yokomo Steel ones? (Plastic ones break in mod way to easily)
Better softer bladders and o-rings for the shocks like the Reflex Parts? (Standard are like plastic)
Better blocks to hold the arms like the PPD Dail-a-grips? (Standard move without touching anything!)
Rid of the plastic inserts all over the car. They are a great idea but unless you glue them in they have a ridiculas amount of slop so no point. Either the inserts should be made of something harder like Delrin or maybe just go back to standard parts with one setting (especially on the c-hubs and rear hubs)
Such a great car but needs so many other brands of parts to bring it up the standard needed to be competitive in modified.
Surely Juho and Kevin are voicing these same concerns?
Cheers!
06-17-2012, 08:42 PM
#6978
For the street I wouldnt. TCs ride low already and in the streets consider the bumps, debris and imperfections in the road.
What do you want for the ESC?
And why are you selling your 6? What are you moving on too?
TC6 for sale in pretty good shape
Includes:
Entire rolling chassis with yokomo gear diff, Springs, spare parts and some bearings
LRP TC Spec speedo with fan and deans plug
Thunder power battery with deans plug - 5300/65C - no puffing
Super heavy duty Hitec servo - HS-7950TH - High Voltage Torque
Futaba receiver - R2104GF
Make me an offer for everything via pm
Will get pictures as soon as I can borrow an camera!
Thanks
Includes:
Entire rolling chassis with yokomo gear diff, Springs, spare parts and some bearings
LRP TC Spec speedo with fan and deans plug
Thunder power battery with deans plug - 5300/65C - no puffing
Super heavy duty Hitec servo - HS-7950TH - High Voltage Torque
Futaba receiver - R2104GF
Make me an offer for everything via pm
Will get pictures as soon as I can borrow an camera!
Thanks
And why are you selling your 6? What are you moving on too?
06-17-2012, 08:44 PM
#6979
how thw lrp x 20 7.5 trun be in it?
06-17-2012, 10:24 PM
#6980
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
What adjustments should I try to gain some corner exit on throttle steering?
I tried moving my droop from 5mm to 6mm (letting the front end rise less). Seemed to help but I didn't like the other characteristics of the car so i put it back to 5. Haven't strayed away from my current settings too much. The car seems to work nice, would just like a little more exit steering. I do have my steering throw slightly limited. Not sure if it would help if the wheels turned more. I have the steering limited just slightly.
My setup is pretty typical from the setup sheets I read on here. I cld go into more detail if needed. Will be doing some testing tomorrow, looking for things to try.
Thanks
I tried moving my droop from 5mm to 6mm (letting the front end rise less). Seemed to help but I didn't like the other characteristics of the car so i put it back to 5. Haven't strayed away from my current settings too much. The car seems to work nice, would just like a little more exit steering. I do have my steering throw slightly limited. Not sure if it would help if the wheels turned more. I have the steering limited just slightly.
My setup is pretty typical from the setup sheets I read on here. I cld go into more detail if needed. Will be doing some testing tomorrow, looking for things to try.
Thanks
06-18-2012, 02:18 AM
#6981
What adjustments should I try to gain some corner exit on throttle steering?
I tried moving my droop from 5mm to 6mm (letting the front end rise less). Seemed to help but I didn't like the other characteristics of the car so i put it back to 5. Haven't strayed away from my current settings too much. The car seems to work nice, would just like a little more exit steering. I do have my steering throw slightly limited. Not sure if it would help if the wheels turned more. I have the steering limited just slightly.
My setup is pretty typical from the setup sheets I read on here. I cld go into more detail if needed. Will be doing some testing tomorrow, looking for things to try.
Thanks
I tried moving my droop from 5mm to 6mm (letting the front end rise less). Seemed to help but I didn't like the other characteristics of the car so i put it back to 5. Haven't strayed away from my current settings too much. The car seems to work nice, would just like a little more exit steering. I do have my steering throw slightly limited. Not sure if it would help if the wheels turned more. I have the steering limited just slightly.
My setup is pretty typical from the setup sheets I read on here. I cld go into more detail if needed. Will be doing some testing tomorrow, looking for things to try.
Thanks
06-18-2012, 04:06 AM
#6982
Unless the surface you are running on is perfectly smooth I'd run at least a mil more ride height than the race setups to start. You may find you can run a race ride height of around 5 mm but your bottom chassis will likely take a beating. You can get some clear mylar from most hardware stores and make a chassis protector fairly easily if no scratches are important. If not just run it and replace the bottom deck if it gets too chewed up.
Yes, you do want to run droop. This will help with the weight transfer when accelerating and braking as well as let the wheels follow imperfections in the surface you are running on. Your car will not handle correctly without it.
Yes, you do want to run droop. This will help with the weight transfer when accelerating and braking as well as let the wheels follow imperfections in the surface you are running on. Your car will not handle correctly without it.
06-18-2012, 08:33 AM
#6983
.
Will Team Associated be bringing out any new parts for the TC6.1 before or after the worlds?
Double Cardan Front Unis?? (Still having to run Tamiya or Spec R)
With a spool the standard driveshafts to chatter on the bench but on the track there seems to be no difference in performance or lap times. The latest driveshafts are improved and do not chatter as bad as the previous version (running change, no new part number).
Decent front out drives like the Yokomo Steel ones? (Plastic ones break in mod way to easily)The blades do break. Never had a problem with the actual outdrives although if you run a putty filled gear diff the outdrives can began to expand and could break eventually.
Better softer bladders and o-rings for the shocks like the Reflex Parts? (Standard are like plastic)Softer bladders can help reduce rebound if your setup calls for less. I use standard o-rings, no problem.
Better blocks to hold the arms like the PPD Dail-a-grips? (Standard move without touching anything!)Once you take a hit and the block moves the hole has enlarged which makes them move more easily the next time. I suggest changing any block that begins to move excessively.
Rid of the plastic inserts all over the car. They are a great idea but unless you glue them in they have a ridiculas amount of slop so no point. Either the inserts should be made of something harder like Delrin or maybe just go back to standard parts with one setting (especially on the c-hubs and rear hubs)
The plastic inserts should be glued in. In my opinion, the good thing about this design is that you can stock fewer parts like caster blocks. You can have one spare set rather than one set of each. And you don't end up with a bunch of lefts or rights.
Such a great car but needs so many other brands of parts to bring it up the standard needed to be competitive in modified.
It is nice that aftermarket companies are making option parts for the car but I don't think they are necessary. I admit that the AE selection of springs is not great so I generally use RSD springs.
Surely Juho and Kevin are voicing these same concerns?
Cheers!
Double Cardan Front Unis?? (Still having to run Tamiya or Spec R)
With a spool the standard driveshafts to chatter on the bench but on the track there seems to be no difference in performance or lap times. The latest driveshafts are improved and do not chatter as bad as the previous version (running change, no new part number).
Decent front out drives like the Yokomo Steel ones? (Plastic ones break in mod way to easily)The blades do break. Never had a problem with the actual outdrives although if you run a putty filled gear diff the outdrives can began to expand and could break eventually.
Better softer bladders and o-rings for the shocks like the Reflex Parts? (Standard are like plastic)Softer bladders can help reduce rebound if your setup calls for less. I use standard o-rings, no problem.
Better blocks to hold the arms like the PPD Dail-a-grips? (Standard move without touching anything!)Once you take a hit and the block moves the hole has enlarged which makes them move more easily the next time. I suggest changing any block that begins to move excessively.
Rid of the plastic inserts all over the car. They are a great idea but unless you glue them in they have a ridiculas amount of slop so no point. Either the inserts should be made of something harder like Delrin or maybe just go back to standard parts with one setting (especially on the c-hubs and rear hubs)
The plastic inserts should be glued in. In my opinion, the good thing about this design is that you can stock fewer parts like caster blocks. You can have one spare set rather than one set of each. And you don't end up with a bunch of lefts or rights.
Such a great car but needs so many other brands of parts to bring it up the standard needed to be competitive in modified.
It is nice that aftermarket companies are making option parts for the car but I don't think they are necessary. I admit that the AE selection of springs is not great so I generally use RSD springs.
Surely Juho and Kevin are voicing these same concerns?
Cheers!
06-18-2012, 08:53 AM
#6984
Will Team Associated be bringing out any new parts for the TC6.1 before or after the worlds?
Double Cardan Front Unis?? (Still having to run Tamiya or Spec R)
Decent front out drives like the Yokomo Steel ones? (Plastic ones break in mod way to easily)
Better softer bladders and o-rings for the shocks like the Reflex Parts? (Standard are like plastic)
Better blocks to hold the arms like the PPD Dail-a-grips? (Standard move without touching anything!)
Rid of the plastic inserts all over the car. They are a great idea but unless you glue them in they have a ridiculas amount of slop so no point. Either the inserts should be made of something harder like Delrin or maybe just go back to standard parts with one setting (especially on the c-hubs and rear hubs)
Such a great car but needs so many other brands of parts to bring it up the standard needed to be competitive in modified.
Surely Juho and Kevin are voicing these same concerns?
Cheers!
Double Cardan Front Unis?? (Still having to run Tamiya or Spec R)
Decent front out drives like the Yokomo Steel ones? (Plastic ones break in mod way to easily)
Better softer bladders and o-rings for the shocks like the Reflex Parts? (Standard are like plastic)
Better blocks to hold the arms like the PPD Dail-a-grips? (Standard move without touching anything!)
Rid of the plastic inserts all over the car. They are a great idea but unless you glue them in they have a ridiculas amount of slop so no point. Either the inserts should be made of something harder like Delrin or maybe just go back to standard parts with one setting (especially on the c-hubs and rear hubs)
Such a great car but needs so many other brands of parts to bring it up the standard needed to be competitive in modified.
Surely Juho and Kevin are voicing these same concerns?
Cheers!
06-18-2012, 09:09 AM
#6985
what a god motor trun i just play in the street. like 7.5 one?
06-18-2012, 09:37 AM
#6986
06-18-2012, 09:39 AM
#6987
06-18-2012, 10:00 AM
#6988
Since you are not racing I would suggest a sensorless ESC and motor combo which will be less expensive and are more conducive to high speed runs. I only know about the racing stuff so maybe others can chime in on what would work best for your application.
If you want racing gear I suggest THIS.
If you want racing gear I suggest THIS.
06-18-2012, 10:04 AM
#6989
Since you are not racing I would suggest a sensorless ESC and motor combo which will be less expensive and are more conducive to high speed runs. I only know about the racing stuff so maybe others can chime in on what would work best for your application.
If you want racing gear I suggest THIS.
If you want racing gear I suggest THIS.
06-18-2012, 11:22 AM
#6990
If you are just worried about top speed buy the lowest turn sensored motor you can afford and be done with it. Keep the motor under 180 degrees and it should last a while. You aren't racing so the minute differences between one brand and another shouldn't make much of a difference.