hello all , i do not quote previous msg in order to save space on the forum

but following your advise
i try ride height adjustment, less brake thinks are getting better

i did two packs at lunch time as temperature was around 12 degrees on ground got better feeling on track n car is more "readable"

i need now to adapt my handling and try to forgot the " WRC" style n try to be more cool and smart on the track

will work on the roll center later on and on the spring too will let you know

latest question


in those condition what body will be good for this track
for now i think ltc r was the best but i m open for trying other item

have a nice day

Is there any chance you don't have the car shimmed wide enough at the bulkhead and the blades are bottoming out in the spool?

A strange problem with my TC6.1!? When I build my car and set it on my Hudy I realized that the rear Toe is not symmetric. The difference is 1.5 degree! Shimming left/right is symmetric, bulkheads not bent, minimal slope in the parts, camber links same length, camber 2 degree both sides, arm mounts 3A all around ... To achieve symmetric toe values I shimmed

Left side (FWD 1.5mm) (offset RWD 0.5mm)
Right side (FWD 0.5mm) (offset RWD 1.5mm)

Regards, G

Spools just break blades on impact. This is quite common. If you were coming from the TC6, with a slipper spool, this is definitely the cause. When I run a spool over a slipper spool, I go through far more blades. So for club racing, on tracks with hard barriers I pretty much stick to a slipper spool.

One thing I always tell people is you have to learn to hit off power. It totally saves your drive train. Sometimes, it's best to not try to get out of the wreck, and "prevent" damage by tapping the brakes and attempting to "soften" the collision. I have a buddy that every time he hits, he breaks his car. He is always trying to avoid the wreck by powering out. When he hits, he always breaks a knuckle, a steering block, etc. He does it running stock. When I hit, seldom will I break, but I tend to hit "softer" even when running modified. The most important thing is to hit off power.

I have heard horror stories about the Hudy set-up gauges. However, check your toe inserts to make sure they match and check your suspension blocks to make sure they are not off.

To me, it sounds like the inserts are off.

The inserts are all 0 degree. Normally I don't measure rear toe I just shim it and that's it. But this time you could tell by the eye the left side has less toe in so I measured it ...

Just thought I would post this to support Geberit's question. The toe in my car is also off by 1 degree in the rear from side to side with stock setup from the manual. I double checked the plastic blocks are the same left to right.

Seems like the plastic inserts are not very accurate or something.

+1

+1

I had a variance of .5 shiming to get my toe even on a hudy guage...
This is on the Tc6...

have you guys tried using the rc12r5 blue aluminum shims? they seem to be a great alternative to the stock plastic ones.

I am using the R5 aluminum shims... I only checked the toe on the car because i've put so many laps on this car and wanted to make sure everything was even... The car was even when new...

Yup - I tossed the plastic ones immediately, and used the blue ones. They don't compress

They're fairly expensive for what you get, but they will last forever.

i use them too but was asking the folks who had to add shims to compensate. i don't have an issue with them (knock on wood) compared to when i had the stockers.

I'm using the rc12r5 blue alu shims!