20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
07-13-2011, 10:51 AM
#3181
has anyone had problems with the spec-r killing gear set's in the tc6 im on my 2nd set in a month. any ideas ?
07-13-2011, 11:44 AM
#3182
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...review-56.html
07-13-2011, 07:13 PM
#3183
Tech Apprentice
I had the same issue with the spec r diff. I had it for a few months. Teeth of the gears lost their edge and would slip. I did notice a bit of leakage of the diff oil but didnt think it was enough to cause the diff to completely strip the internal gears of the diff. Ive resorted to using the standard ball diff until AE final release their own gear diff.
07-13-2011, 07:16 PM
#3184
Tech Apprentice
Just converted my 008 over and haven't run yet, but reading up I found that if the gears are too close then usually that is what causes them to self destruct. Sand the back of gears till they rotate free and smooth with no oil in them. Good source info here.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...review-56.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...review-56.html
07-14-2011, 12:52 AM
#3185
bd5 shafts
can i use yokomo bd5 rear shafts for tc6? Or they are different?
07-14-2011, 01:19 AM
#3186
I've just bought a set of these myself to get the genuine Yokomo BD5 gear diff working without modification. I found the kit TC6 driveshafts (46mm) too long so purchased the 44mm BD5 shafts. You need the complete shaft (not just the bone). They do fit, but you will also need:
Yokomo wheel hexes (BD-011C)
5x10x3mm bearings
Yokomo wheel hexes (BD-011C)
5x10x3mm bearings
07-14-2011, 01:50 AM
#3187
probably that is not worth better is to wait for oryginal AE gear diff, thanks for that!
07-14-2011, 02:04 AM
#3188
Tech Addict
I had the same issue with the spec r diff. I had it for a few months. Teeth of the gears lost their edge and would slip. I did notice a bit of leakage of the diff oil but didnt think it was enough to cause the diff to completely strip the internal gears of the diff. Ive resorted to using the standard ball diff until AE final release their own gear diff.
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer
Hello there.
Here is my Experience with the Spec R Diff. Having only used the
yokomo diff before my initial mistake was to try and make it smooth
right out of the box by sanding the gears.
I found the gears to break if you do more than just slightly polish
them.
So mistake 1: do not sand down the gears, just polish!
As for the supplied shims:
Theres a small 1/10 shim and a larger 2/10 shim supplied. The 1/10
shim is the old one and will break if you run it in modified!
Grease on the oring:
I used Xenon Shock grease (pink one) on the X ring and so far the diff
is surprisingly well sealed. With a gear diff there will always be
leakage but atleast it leaks less than the yokomo diff :-)
Which and how much oil to use:
I have tested 100wt and 50wt to get a Feeling for how the diff reacts
to varying oil thickness. 100wt felt easy on turn in but was a bit loose
on accelerating as long as traction was low. 50wt oil was easier on
power with a bit more turn-in.
Fill the gear diff with only the main gear installed up until the oil is
approx .5mm below the bottom of the centergear guiding slots (hard to
explain :-) ). If you push the centre gears in the oil will use through it.
If there is no oil in middle of the cross holding the centre gears you
have not filled the diff enough. The cross centre shall jut be covered
with oil.
Again note that the diff will not be smooth right away but needs one
run to break-in the gears.
Also note that you might need to loosen the rear belt tension by one
notch.
Here is my Experience with the Spec R Diff. Having only used the
yokomo diff before my initial mistake was to try and make it smooth
right out of the box by sanding the gears.
I found the gears to break if you do more than just slightly polish
them.
So mistake 1: do not sand down the gears, just polish!
As for the supplied shims:
Theres a small 1/10 shim and a larger 2/10 shim supplied. The 1/10
shim is the old one and will break if you run it in modified!
Grease on the oring:
I used Xenon Shock grease (pink one) on the X ring and so far the diff
is surprisingly well sealed. With a gear diff there will always be
leakage but atleast it leaks less than the yokomo diff :-)
Which and how much oil to use:
I have tested 100wt and 50wt to get a Feeling for how the diff reacts
to varying oil thickness. 100wt felt easy on turn in but was a bit loose
on accelerating as long as traction was low. 50wt oil was easier on
power with a bit more turn-in.
Fill the gear diff with only the main gear installed up until the oil is
approx .5mm below the bottom of the centergear guiding slots (hard to
explain :-) ). If you push the centre gears in the oil will use through it.
If there is no oil in middle of the cross holding the centre gears you
have not filled the diff enough. The cross centre shall jut be covered
with oil.
Again note that the diff will not be smooth right away but needs one
run to break-in the gears.
Also note that you might need to loosen the rear belt tension by one
notch.
07-14-2011, 10:27 AM
#3189
I know Vern has been doing some measurements on the blocks, but does anyone have a spreadsheet that shows the roll center changes for all of the blocks and bulked positions?
Like how much higher are the arms from 0A to 3B? I don't mind figuring it out, but if someone has already done it then no need to reinvent the wheel.
Like how much higher are the arms from 0A to 3B? I don't mind figuring it out, but if someone has already done it then no need to reinvent the wheel.
07-14-2011, 11:21 AM
#3190
Tech Rookie
Servo Horn Break
I've built a TC6 and started to try racing. (Completely new to RC racing) On my first outing I put the car into the boards along the boardside. The C-hub broke. Later I also noticed the servo horn broke. I thought that wasn't supposed to happen because of the whole "servo-saver" thing? Do i need to adjust something here?
thanks,
kevin
thanks,
kevin
07-14-2011, 11:26 AM
#3191
Tech Fanatic
Everything is breakable when you hit it hard enough...
A servo saver will save, kind of, but not always, still cheaper than broken gears in your servo.
A servo saver will save, kind of, but not always, still cheaper than broken gears in your servo.
07-14-2011, 11:46 AM
#3192
I know Vern has been doing some measurements on the blocks, but does anyone have a spreadsheet that shows the roll center changes for all of the blocks and bulked positions?
Like how much higher are the arms from 0A to 3B? I don't mind figuring it out, but if someone has already done it then no need to reinvent the wheel.
Like how much higher are the arms from 0A to 3B? I don't mind figuring it out, but if someone has already done it then no need to reinvent the wheel.
Art did you mean B0 because A0 will not even fit as block is too long.
Here are all the locations from B0 starting point.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9344800-post3119.html
Last edited by Verndog; 07-14-2011 at 11:57 AM. Reason: posted A3 originally
07-14-2011, 12:10 PM
#3193
I know Vern has been doing some measurements on the blocks, but does anyone have a spreadsheet that shows the roll center changes for all of the blocks and bulked positions?
Like how much higher are the arms from 0A to 3B? I don't mind figuring it out, but if someone has already done it then no need to reinvent the wheel.
Like how much higher are the arms from 0A to 3B? I don't mind figuring it out, but if someone has already done it then no need to reinvent the wheel.
07-14-2011, 12:15 PM
#3194
Actually not. There is a wider gap from the 0 to the 1 then the other blocks. The 0-1 is more like 1.27mm and the others are closer to .76mm.
Here is a PDF of the exact numbers. B0 to A3 is .53mm.
http://www.ppdbillet.com/TC6-Block-Heights.pdf
Here is a PDF of the exact numbers. B0 to A3 is .53mm.
http://www.ppdbillet.com/TC6-Block-Heights.pdf
07-14-2011, 12:19 PM
#3195
I'll post a PDF of those numbers one of these days. There is .115 (2.92mm) difference from B0 to B3.
Art did you mean B0 because A0 will not even fit as block is too long.
Here are all the locations from B0 starting point.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9344800-post3119.html
Art did you mean B0 because A0 will not even fit as block is too long.
Here are all the locations from B0 starting point.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9344800-post3119.html
No, I was just trying to document how much difference there is between mounts in different positions. Mostly just trying to understand how to find tune roll center on the arms. I think your info that you posted will work and is what I was looking for. The only question I have was where were these measurements taken from? Is it from the top of the chassis?