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So far i like the mazdaspeed. The mazda def numbs up the corner entry compared to the ltcr
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Originally Posted by DomTC6
(Post 8582104)
Does any one know what the best body shell is for the TC6 is. On my TC5 I tried the R9 and that was the worst shell I had ever used so I changed to the DNA 2 which I also put on the TC6. The P37-R looks quite good but does it handle well or is there a better shell out there?
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The R9 is a great body... the chassis just needs to be tuned differently to use it...
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
(Post 8585219)
The R9 was the worse body every produced IMO. I feel I'm owed 2 bodies after I wasted time and money painting them:lol: Go with the LTCR or a Speed 6 and call it a day.:nod:
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Originally Posted by GreenSC10
(Post 8568468)
Not sure if this has been brought up lately, but I was having issues with my right rear bulk head having poorly threaded holes. The bulk head was stripped on one hole and on the bottom side as well. I actually had a screw back out during a race and fall out (which I check before each run). So I changed my M3X14 to M3X16 for a little more bite when holding on the A arms. For the chassis underneath to the bulk head I used M3X8 instead of the M3X5, but some 8's didnt fit, because of inconsistant depths of the treaded holes.
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Thanks everyone for the help in body shells. I think I might give the speed 6 ago.
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz
(Post 8581602)
Hi!
;)
I use some cnc cut 10mm tool to put inside bearing more, and now: - outside is 5x10x3, - inside is 5x10x4, - hex is from yokomo: bd-011c (5mm) or nr graupner: YBD.011C, - spec-r bd5 double joint axle ;) Need some work on c-hub to fit it, and I will squeeze tc6 diff, it is a little slop, or put Y bd5 gear diff to front with 100k oil ;) Anyway, works, from slow rpms to high without big shaking ;) Also I wait very long time for ae factory to do own axle ... tool: Attachment 702326 Good Luck with the Spec-R axles. We tried them in the Yokomo BD5 (All in Modified) but they didn't last long. They kept braking at the Joint. |
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We tend to only use the R9 in the wet here in the UK
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Originally Posted by DomTC6
(Post 8586886)
Thanks everyone for the help in body shells. I think I might give the speed 6 ago.
-b |
Originally Posted by FrankH
(Post 8586899)
Good Luck with the Spec-R axles. We tried them in the Yokomo BD5 (All in Modified) but they didn't last long. They kept braking at the Joint.
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Originally Posted by twk-b
(Post 8588155)
The real secret is to pick up 2 or 3 bodies, as it is the quickest tuning aid (ie less then 10 seconds to change the body) and it makes an unbelievable difference in handling. It will take a couple of laps to adjust to the difference in the body. Like JRS_chris suggests maybe the R9 gives you a ton of front bit that you need in the rain to make your standard setup just work.
-b While todays TC's DO have a lot of steering, there is something to be said for greater downforce in almost any racing situation. Using an R9 in the wet is a great example of that. I use it because our local track has less grip than most. But i would likely shy away from using it at a big event that has high grip, like the Snowbirds... because the body DOES require more wrench time to find a setup that works for your particular chassis. Im just saying dont shy away from the R9. A lot of people hated the Mazda 6 body when it first came out because it had so much steering. It went on to become a staple in TC racing for years. :nod: |
Originally Posted by hanulec
(Post 8588450)
+1 :)
I have too much time for tuning ;) then race ... ;) If axles will be bad, I will just switch to ready set ;) ae ;) Regards! m |
litemodz tc6 axle
;)
anyone try them in the past with tc5 ? maybe now with tc6? :) http://www.litemodz.com/product_info...roducts_id=402 |
I prefer the LTC-R over the Speed6, for both my TC5 and TC6. It just seems to suit my driving better, plus I found the LTC-R just seems to sit better on the car compard to the Speed6.
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Is there place where I can get the bulkheads at?
Thanks. |
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